motor/trany/tcase swop help

i dont know where to start, since i got my kaiser i have laided awake at knight thinking abought how to swop the motor/trans/tcase. the options are endless and all have good and bad points, not that i mind thinking abought it..
anyway recently the @#%$!* D.M.V. has decided that my other truck (79 blazer) has to be smogged and it wont pass rendering it useless, then it hit me. it has a 350/465/205 under it. which would be a good combo for many reasons. my other rout is 350 motor 2wd 465 and np 202 transfer case, which would be bada$$ also. just wondering if any one had any opinions on the swops to help me decide, i got to get going on this thing its killing me all i do is look at it.. im on a budget but a imagine most of it could be fabed at home. any info would be great.....

the 350/465/205 is the way to go. use 70 chev pu. mounts and they will work with stock frame mounts then you will have to fab tcase mount and linkage/driveshafts.

The Man!
That said, both of those options are good choices and will render you a very potent 715 with plenty of power and bullet-proof parts. I don't know mych about the 202, but from what I've read it's good......but not as desireable as the 205 when it comes to streetability. The 205 is just hard to beat as a good all around case- quiet, tough, parts are easy to get, and it's tried and true.

About fabbing your own parts- you can with the exception of the driveshafts. You're most likely gonna have to get those made at a shop. If you use the divorced 202, and if it fits close to the same location as the stock 200, then you can use your current shaft.
For the 350's motor mounts, use mounts from a '70 Chevy pickup with the 350 in it.
For the 350's exhaust manifolds- you can use stock manifolds, or get headers that sweep back and clear the frame horns.
For your clutch linkage, I think that some have used the 350's pivot ball, but it's almost as easy to just weld up your current linkage to be a stand-alone type.
For the crossmember you may have to weld up something custom, I don't know as I have no idea what the 2wd 465 looks like. I have a mated 465/205 as you have in your Blazer and I stuck that in there. I had to make a crossmember, but it wasn't such a much.

Good luck and if you have any trouble, ask away as a couple guys have done this swap.
-B.

After the 200, which we have stock, they made the 202 and the 205....205 is up to around 1 to 1.5 ton, 202 is over 1.5 ton...202 looks the same but is a little bigger and heavier...
Where there use to be one, now there are 2....
brute4c

Brian, does standard chevrolet 4x4 headers work in M715 with the 70 model motor mounts?

Boil,
I just got some block huggers today from Dynomax (Via Jeg's) and I'll do a big post tomorrow as to if they will fit a BB. As to a SB, I had some headers of a no-brand-name variety that fit perfect. I dunno a part number, but someone else may......

i would also like to move every thing forward to clear the fire wall. how far is just enough, after the 350 a 454 is going in do i need more room for it? now is the time to make room.. any info to make this easyer or propare me for the nightmare would be apreciated

Spicer moved his forward about 2 inches and that made it so that things cleard the firewall with no prob and still allowed him to use the stock fan.
brute4c

works for me thanks..

i will go with the 2wd trans. with the 202 tcase my next question is the wireing, i would like to keep every thing in the truck stock ( guages, lights, black out lights, even the kick start button. if that means keeping part of the truck 24v so be it. what is the best way to wire the motor and the 24v chargeing system???? electrical is not my strong piont...

Use the GM alternator with the built in regulator. One wire of the three wire harness jumps back to the battery terminal. The other goes to an ignition source. The heavy wire goes to the hot side your starter button to return juice to your battery. Remove all the stock charging system and cables. I ran two 12 volt batteries to assist srting and winching. You will need one wire to go to the hot post on the ignition switch. With the maual starter button and ran a single cable to a high torque mini starter and jumped the starter wire there to the cable, so when the cable gets juice, the starter drive does too. Change out the bulbs and you are in business, except for instruments, horn and heater fan. For firewall clearance I used a small cap MSD stand alone distributor. Happy wheeling! Glen