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Has anyone ever used POR-15 or similar products? What kind of success did you have? I'm looking to coat the frame with it. How clean does the metal need to be? I have power washed an degreased the frame. There is no loose rust. The rust that is left is rough texture. Feels like coarse sandpaper.
What I do is treat the rusted areas with Ospho. It kills the rust so it won't start again so quickly. I sand, wire wheel or sand blast the area before the Ospho treatment to remove the big chunks. After the treatment with Ospho, then just prime with a good quality primer (not krylon or rustoleum), I use Gillespie, and paint.
i have used POR15 and am happy with that product also, used widely by car restoration people.
Duane
I've never used it, but i know some people have a hard time with the por-15. Seems like the biggest thing is prepping the surface, making sure to do exactly what it says to do. I've heard a few stories about peeling, but i think it was due to bad prep. Mostly good things about it though.
I used POR-15 on my frame and I have nothing but bad things to say about it. I prepped the frame exactly how the instructions said. But it started to peel and flake off after 6 months. I called the company and they said since I was so close to the ocean the salt air affects the POR. So they gave me my money back. I cleaned off as much as I could and used Ospho like kwai said. I made sure to use it during the rest of the resto-mod and after 8 years all is good.
It's been eight years already??? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by porkchop
I have used several of PoR 15's products. I am not as impressed as I thought I would be long term. There are many products now that might have POR 15 beat. I am currently using a urethane paint like POR 15 made by Bill Hirsch.
No problems with it so far.
There is zero rust and many others. I would try and find some reviews and see what people are using now.
I had a run of using Permatex rust treatment from Napa. It is completely worthless and delaminated allowing oxygen to waste away more metal under the coating.
I remember PC's POR 15 troubles. That was about when I started looking for other products. I was using it at the same time with out the same problems. PC is or was in a much different coastal environment. I am in the PNW with salt free air and different humidity. If a product is that particular I would find something else.
When they say don't get urethane paint on you they really mean it. You will wear it till your skin naturally sheds or you sand your skin till it's raw. It does not come off skin.
Cheers.
Almost. Picked up my truck when I got back from Iraq in 2003. Time flies when your having fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel
Who sells Ospho rust treatment?
http://www.ospho.com/
I found it at my local Ace hardware store at the time. I think they may have it at the tractor supply store, or some place similar.
I've used it for quite a long time and had good experience with it, both on rusty and new stripped metal. There are two different kinds of it though. One is rust treatment and the other is rust preventer or something like that. They both come in the same size/style bottle and are only 1 or 2 part numbers off. The cheaper rust preventer doesn't do anything at all and doesn't adhere well. The rust treatment turns black and has a strong chemical smell when applied. Its been on my M715 seams and welds for 3 years now and no problems to report.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Thanks everybody for your input. Right now I'm deciding between the osphos and zero-rust. If I can find someplace local to get osphos, I'll try it first.
This OSPHO product sounds like a dream come true for Auto And Truck restorers. Personally, I've never heard of it. It's kinda nice to know that it can be purchased at Ace and True Value hardware stores. Thanks for the information. Much appreciated.
Ospho rocks! It's not a new product by any means. I have seen POR-15 just peel off of frames. Ospho is phosphoric acid. It reacts with the iron oxide converting it to iron phosphate which is black. I last bought it at Ace.
I bought mine 2 months ago from jamestown Distributors, fast shipping. I found it works great too.
I just ordered and received some 'Rust Bullet' just because it was a little cheaper than Por15.
I'm doing the under side of the bed and frame as far as I can get up in there.
I steam cleaned the frame and under bed areas and sprayed on their "Metal blast" that etches old paint, surface rust (turning it somewhat black).
It states to 'buff' with a towel after rinsing with water.? Like heck I'm gonna try and get in every nook and cranny..
It's more of a pewter gray color that's a little tooo light for me. I'll have to see what it looks like after. It also states to use 2-coats. I think that I'll just use the one heavy coat and then some rattle can satin black or dark gray on the seen framework underneath.
Clean-up uses Keyolyne??
3-bottles of metal blast
2-qts of their silver coating and ship cost me about 145.00
I forgot what I paid for the POR, but it did work fine on the top of my 72 Monte Carlo that rusted under the vinyl top. BUT it does not hold up to sunlight for a long time. Get's powdery/chalky after a few months. (ended up sellin before a new top was installed)
Then there's "Zero Rust" also.. Never used it but see it in Hemmings Motor news.
Errol
After getting caught up on some home projects I'm finally getting back to the 715. Bought some ospho and have tested it on some other small projects I've been working on. So far I have had good results. Found it at my local Ace Hardware. $23/gal. They were the only local retailer that didn't make me buy a whole case.
I had to buy it online and pay the shipping. My local Ace would only order it if I bought the whole caseQuote:
Originally Posted by mstaley
I was thinking about this today, because I was just dealing with a very rusty frame:
I've used a number of products over the years in both personal projects and restorations for customers.
POR and the like are an OK product, but they tout them as being able to paint over rust and all your problems are solved. I've found that even just removing the rust scale and using these type of products doesn't really fix the problem. The theory is that encapsulating the rust and cutting off the oxygen will stop the oxidizing. However, unless you can be absolutely certain that there is zero moisture, and zero oxygen, you cannot stop the process of rusting.
The rust converters "sorta" work, but again, they don't really address the issue of what's left behind. The stuff you see on the surface is converted and turned black, but most of those chemicals don't penetrate more than the surface and again, you are left with the same situation.
Total removal is the best way, although I do realize that it isn't always feasible to sandblast a frame or other large object then prime it with an etching primer, add a sealer then paint it. Certainly these chemicals are better than nothing at all, but they do have their limits no matter the brand.
Just some things to keep in mind......