seal question

anybody know where to find a rear main engine seal for the stock 230 engine? Is it worth the trouble and expense to fix it or trade out drive train and engine for something newer?

The surplus places should have the seal...Memphis Equipment, VPW or Surplus City...can try AB Linn as well...

Some of the trucks leak from this location no matter what you do...some are better after the deal is changed, at least for a while.

It is a 2 piece thing tha is a bit challenging to change...drop the oil pan and take off the rear filler block...its an aluminum piece shaped like a giant U behind the rear main bearing. The lower half of the rear main seal is held on this piece. The upper half goes above the crank in a small groove. It is easiest to take a brass punch bout the size of the seal and drive it from one end so it sticks out the other...pull out the remains and clean the channel as best you can.

To install the upper half, it works pretty well to take a strong bit of chord and run it up in the hole above the crank and out the other side...take the chord and tie it around the seal with a slip knot and pull down on the opposite side of the chord so the seal gets pulled up and into the groove.

The seal works best when the seperation points of the 2 halves of the seal are NOT in line with the parting lines of the rear filler block and the motor...in other words, instead of having the upper half of the seal flush on the 2 ends with the black and the lower half of the seal flush with the top edges of the rear filler block, theyshould be offset...like 20 degrees or so. Simply put the edgesof the seal halves should not be from 3 oclock to 9 oclock but more like 4:30 to 10:30 or so.

I hope that is clear.

Brute your instructions were excellent and made quite sense. If this is another inherent weak point in this truck and may not last long then why not solve it with a 350/sm465or 400 turbo/205 and possibly eliminate a lot of problems at once? I was kind of considering the leaking seal as this drive trains death throes. Am I wrong? I had considered changing all of the drive train inc. axles anyway to build a more usable (road worthy) safer truck. My Son has a350/400/205 it would just be a matter of "talking" him out of it. To be read as how much will it cost the old man LOL . I love this truck but the wife is about ready to kill me and it if you know what I mean.

The seal, I don't know. I have a 350/sm465/205 in mine and that chevy leaks oil EVERYWHERE! The 465 also leaks. Before you install, make sure they are buttoned up real well. Both need to be to be pulled and have the gaskets changed. Here's what you do about the wife: Pick up about four more project trucks that she'll hate as well and then she'll concede to just one if you promise to get rid of the others. Worked in my case anyway.

How about doing something in your wifes interests, rebuilt something she needs and keep your stuff, lets say, for three or five weeks untouched, that helps also.
Wolf

All depends on what you want in the end...the 230 and stock drivetrain is good for 50 mph or less and not being daily driver...though it can be used as one, it isnt the best suited to that.

If you want a daily driver and/or a more roadworthy truck, then the swap you outlined may be the best bet for you...it is a common swap and not too difficult to do.

As far as the drivetrain being in its death throes...it wouldnt be just from a leaking rear main seal...the 230 can soldier on a loooooooooong time if that is all that is wrong with it...are there other drivetrain train ssues or are there limitations i the stock rivetrain that are holding you up from enjoying the truck more? If so, the swap may be your ticket...

The rear main seal I got from Memphis looks different. It is not as thick as the one I took out. Is this a suitable replacment or did they send the wrong one?

I had that hapen once...was told that it was the civvy seal compared to the mil seal...civvy being thinner. I do remember a member saying the thicker one worked in his civvy motor too so that confuses the issue unfortunately...
I would contact them and see if they can fix this up for ya.

I got the seal from memphis when i did my clutch and broken flywheel bolts, if i remember right it didnt look exactly like the original, it fit and it does not leak at all.

Duane

See this thread and page down for pictures and info;

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...ht=seal&page=3

Dayly driver: When I was for expert training in Colngne for 1 and a 1/2 year, i rode my M715 40000 + km (25000 miles) in that time. The truck is good for that with the required regular care and the propper transmission ventilation, which sometimes seems to be a design error problem.
Wolf
90,000 + miles on a M715