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Just put in my new small block, converting over to 12v for the entire vehicle. I'll likely just muddle through, but would appreciate any direction on how to integrate the new power with the existing harness.
Of course, change guages, bulbs, fusues and all that. But I'm really interested in keep as much of the harness as possible.
The only problem I can think of is hooking up to the head lights. Since GI head lights have the waterproof connectors and civy lights have...well...civilian connectors, but other than that it should be no big deal to change over with the original wiring harnes.
Are you wanting to keep two 12V batteries in the center console/battery box?
Did you go with a carburated V-8 or FI?
and
What about transmission, manual or auto?
I ask, because the right combination of those and you will be splicing and cutting wires for a while. You could do like several members and run 24V on the chassis stuff, lights, gauges and switches. Then run the engine and trans off of a 12V system. I know that a lot of post have been written about how to do the dual system. I do not know for sure, but I think enough people have posted about the CUCV being a dual system stock.
How did your engine swap go? Give us a report on good and bad stuff. We all could learn something from your project. Include pictures, some of us can't read.
The engine swap part, sans wiring info, will be in the June issue of JP Magazine. I'll post some more info here for the group because y'all such a great bunch of guys. In fact, I'll post nearly all of it if we have the space.
I haven't put any drive time on it yet, so within the month I'll do so and report back on stock radiator ability and such.
Carb, 350 Chevy, using Novak adaptor and converting entire vehicle to 12v.
I think it's just as easy to change bulbs and run 12volt for the whole truck. I was running motor and starter on 12 and lights on 24 for a while, then just asked mysely, "Why...am I doing this," and swapped out the mil bulbs for 12 volt jobbies. I run two 12 volt batteries in the cab. I have them hooked up plus-plus, minus-minus and that way you don't need to worry about a battery isolater or a switch that switches back and fourth between then.
Right on Spicer! I used the GM alternator, ran one wire to the original starter switch to get juice back to the battery, diconnected the 100 amp charging system and cables, then removed them from the truck. I also had to run a new power wire to the ignition switch. I used a mini hi torque starter and life has been good! I also had to change all the bulbs, I wish somebody knew if we could run 12 volt sending units on the stock instruments.
I spliced into the headlight wires and put the 12v plugs in.
All the other lights are still 24v. Except for one brake light on the tailgate thats is used for a tag light.
Redneck1
OK. Someone please answer me this. How can I safely get 24V to my original "looney tunes road runner" sounding horn? My whole truck's 12V and engine is a Jeep 304. I'll have two isolated batteries charged by a heavy duty GM alternator.(slightly modified casing to fit on AMC bracket) I know it's trivial but I want that original sounding horn. Is there a way to get it to work on 12V or is there a 12V reproduction that sounds the same?
I think you could use a 12V to 24V steup converter. I found a couple of links in a quick search:Quote:
Originally Posted by SHoppe
http://www.m-99.co.uk/Electrical/12v..._converte.html
http://www.dcacpowerinverter.com/?CMP=KNC-fin2
You can find more by searching for "12V 24V stepup" on the web. I think the regular 12V Jeep horns will sound about the same though and should be easily found.
Stan
This weekend I installed my new 12v turn signal. I bought the unit from JC Whitney. I removed the old "breadbox" 24volt turn apparatus from the engine bay and installed a 12 point terminal block (6 on each side) I got from a marine supply store. I bought 2 5 pin (male and female) trailer plugs with wires, so I could disconnect the system later. Using the pin-out for the turn signal located in online manuals over to the left, I wired the system. No problems and they work great. Good luck.
That's great. Turn signals can be tricky. I like getting components made for the marine industry as well. It's all made better than what's commonly available for autos. I used a couple of poly marine gas tanks on the M to increase my range and capacity. Of course with gas costing so much I don't know how much use I'll make of them for awhile...Quote:
Originally Posted by bdial
Stan