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hello i was putting new brake lines on my truck last night and took my tire off to clean the studs and ease the removal of the brake lines and was wondering does anyone have an ideas on how to remove the big slotted screws in the as the are pretty snug and i don't know if the will come out very easily any help appreciated and btw i already tried a penetrating oil.
b.f.h. and impact tool
See if this works...
http://www.m715zone.com/Pnuke/index....amp;highlight=
Chris
WD-40, Impact driver, or large screwdriver with vice grips clamped on for leverage.
I just removed all four of mine. Lots of WD-40 and a lrage screw driver and hammer. Used the hammer to pound the screwdriver in the direction I wanted the screw to turn.
Use a dab of anti sieze going back in. Next time will be easier....
That's awsome that we've been around long enough to have a repeat!
I'm gonna thow out a suggestion here that no one else has:
Drill them out and leave them gone. I've done it to 3 of my trucks now and never had any problems. Some said that the only reason that those screws are in there is to hold the drums on whilst the truck goes down the assembly line. The lug nuts hold the drum on tight when the wheels are on, so basically those 3 problem screws are useless. I just drill the heads off of 'em.
Doesn't make them rattle, doesn't make them work loose, doesn't make them any less effective, I can see that it makes no difference at all.
Just my opinion.
-B.
The difference may be that the screws positively locate the drum in relation to the shoes...the lugnuts may leave them off a little and cause less than ideal wear on the shoes...this is a theory[/u][/i] only.
brute4c
i talked to a good friend who has worked on more vehicales then he can count and he said that they were for holding the drum on and to locate the drum and i will guess after removing three of the drums that they would serve to hold the drum off of the lug nuts when you stop and save you the pain in the a$$ of getting them off of the studs (done that on an excursion before it sucks) but that is all i can see them usefull for anyways i got three drums off and checked the pads but the fourth drum woldnt come off and i ran out of acetylene in my torch so that ends my try at removing it but thanks for the help and the pb blaster and bfh and impcat driver worked awesome.
I used lots of pb blaster, big hammer, broke the driver on the impact and had to resort to a cutting torch.
Hey guys, another trick as a last resort is to find a nut that has a large enough hole to allow you to weld it to the screw but not large enough to let you weld it to the drum itself. Weld the nut to the mangled screwhead and then you can use a socket and breaker bar to loosen it. The heat from welding will help break it looses also.
Doug
A good way to remove broken/rounded bolts, very similar to Doug's, is to weld a blob of metal to the screw, which can the be grabbed with vicegrips.
oooooorrrrr- you can just drill 'em out.
Listen, I can't be wrong 100% of the time. Right? Trust me! Do it! This is the voice of reason talking!
-B.
lack of reasoning, b.
Like brute4c says, (Fact) it locates the center of the drum otherwise it would be off center and if left out like brian does it could cause petal pulsations low stopping force due to the brakes not hitting all the way around sso for now brian your still batting 100% WRONG. keep up the good work. the drum centers are bigger than the hub so it fits loose and with out screws it would be offcentered like brian.
Does the drum not also locate on a machined step on the hub? Just wondering since that would negate the need for the screws.
Chris
I got nothing to add except DON'T LISTEN TO BRIAN!
Finally, a guy "In The Know". Indeed, there is a circular machined ridge around the hub, and there is also a tapering of the lug studs. Both of which will prevent this drum walk that all the rest of you have pictured. What? Did you think that the lug studs were not threaded deep enough to hold on the drum? Did you all not notice that the drum sits in a circular hold around the hub face?Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyPabst
Where is Barry? His opinion is the spoken word in my mind.
-B.
I have to agree with b. the drum seats on a shoulder and is pulled tight when convex wheel lug shoulder is clamped against hub . I s-canned my screws as well.
the movement however slight over time from hard braking(and even harder braking w/ larger diameter tires) will cause your lugs to loosen and brake shoes to wear uneven. Drum set screws seem to be used alot more on older euro cars and not so much on american cars.
Three ittty bitty screws vs. 6 big nug nuts..... hmmm wonder who would win that one
brian: go out to your truck pull off a front wheel and remove the three screws (not the ones in your head) and see if the center hole on the drum isnt larger than the hub facin or is my truck an oddball as I just got done with my brakes last night. now on the rears I dont remember as it was before christmas when I did them but I didnt turn the drums so Im pulling them off and turnin them soon.
we cant let brian be right, even 1% of the time so lets keep him at 0% right or his head may start to swell! hahahaha.
http://www.m715zone.com/manuals/quirks7.jpg
"Lug nuts need plenty of tightening to keep your wheel snug on the hub— 300 lbs-ft.
If you don’t have a torque wrench handy, just figure that’s about as much torque as the average guy can put on with the truck’s OEM lug wrench—but no standing or jumping on the wrench. And make sure the studs are centered in the lug nut holes before you tighten the nuts down. If you don’t have full-circle support on those nuts, you’ll find your wheel bustin’ up around the holes."
If your Lugs come loose those 3 little screws will help save your brakes.
I pulled my drums off again today and replaced the springs and my drums fit loosly around the hub so without the screws my drum wouldnt be centered. has anyone else found this to be true with theirs or is mine wierd. Wow 300 lbs-ft of torque sounds like alot. Id better tighten mine some more. I set mine at 140, thanks Danarchy.
brian thanks for the advice on drilling thay came out really easy and that i put new ons in from another parts truck that i have so thanks any ways but i will keep mine in just in case thay do serve a purpose.
Has anyone had success in finding these screws @ a hardware store or such? I don't have the luxury of a parts truck (and I'd have to remove those screws, too!) and my front drums' screws are stuck good. I've been soaking them in WD40 for the past several days and hitting them with the impact driver hasn't done squat. I'm all for drilling them out, but I want to know that replacements are available SOMEWHERE. <g> TIA.
I ordered some from Memphis Equip a few weeks ago. B said that he doesn't use
them, but does his truck run?
i would use them as they are supposed to hold rh drum tight in case you forget to tighten your lugnuts and they help keep the drum from moving due to braking
Barry put some in the axles I bought from him that use a hex wrench to take off...I also know VPW has them.
brute4c
Like Jon said - flat head socket screws. The slotted ones will be much more difficult to find from a non surplus supplier.
Check McMaster-Carr.com or something like that, they'll definitely have ones that will work.
Chris
I got the friggin' screws out. A combination of: 1 failed attempt of heating with a MAPP torch, multiple hits with an impact wrench, beating the hell out of an impact driver (and breaking it) and about 4-5 days of spraying with WD-40. Finally, today, they broke loose with the impact wrench again. I'll be using A LOT of anti-seize on these suckers....
so will i if my truck ever run and drives...................
I ground down the end of a pry bar or crow bar, then put a pipe wrench on the pry bar. All screwed out easily. No need to put to put back in, for assembly line purposes only.
Far too much complexity to be for assembly line only...not like the little trhow away clips assembly lines use are they? These keep the drum positively located on the shoes...note that nothing else in the assembly keeps the drum from moving to some degree about the centerpoint...just too much wasted engineering for unneeded parts...though I do think running without them, under normal conditions and with everything in good shape is ok...might wear the shoes a little uneven and/or faster, otherwise, probably not very noticeable.
brute4c
i have to agree with brute this again if you look closely at those drums the hole for the wheel studs are way too big to keep the drum aligned alone and even if you did torque the lug nuts to spec the drum will still move very very sklowly over time so hear is my oppinion about these screws too much time too much enginering too much machineing =too much money and as these were built for the army bottom dollar won the contract so they doo serve a purpose and they should go back on unless you want to ruin your drums due to excess stress and way to much movement in them which will cause the studs too create indents in the drum and this is not altogether good for them but it is your truck and if you dont want them then more power to ya