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What purpose does it serve? I don't see how it restricts anything. It looks like it's all there from the pics in the manual. Is the spacing between the carb. and manifold crucial in some way? Can I do away with it? Should this post be in Modified?(or soon to be modified!) :?:
If you remove it entirely, you will need to do something with the carb studs, they are not threaded full length.
An easier option would be to just remove the flap from the governor itself. Plug the vacuum port so you don't end up with a lean condition.
Doug
How are the EARLY style carbs mounted compared to the LATE ones? Do the early ones have a govenor?
You can't fit a Early style air cleaner on a carb with a governor. That PonyKegs contraption air cleaner is nothing but in the way if you want to work on the carb. I see a K&N in my future.
The early style and late style use the same carb. Early has shorter studs that mount the carb directly to the intake. Later ones with the gov. have longer studs with the carb and gov on the same studs. The early air cleaner will work on yours if you:
remove the gov and put in shorter studs and remove the late style cleaner.
brute4c
my truck came with an oilbath aircleaner (from a civilian vehicle I assume). I was thinking of going back to the OEM style. My truck is a 69 and came w/ the hood mount air cleaner. Not having one, I did not know how well they are liked. Any advice on aircleaners would be appreciated? I take it that Danarchy is not fond of the hood mounted one.
The carb mounted one is basically the same thing as a standard dry type car or truck canister housing...although the correct filter has a rubber lip that sticks out a way to seal the housing...you can use an off the shelf not lipped filter cheaper for running around and the sealed one for show/fording...
The hood mounted one is more complex and does add to the weight of the hood...it also gets in the way of working on things under the hood at times and some cuss it for that. The filter element is much larger than the canister type and is better suited to sandy environments than the canister type is. It is more expensive as well, both the whole kit and the filter itself.
brute4c
Yeah, I'm not too fond of the Canister type.Mainly because it's in the way! I have both an old and new style intake and I think I'm gonna switch them out and see if it makes any difference. Thanks Dan
Hey Dan, I'd be interested in that can if you decide you don't want it. I like em myself and my 68 has the carb mounted style. wanna trade??
I have the hood mounted unit. I really like it as it takes forever to contaminate it. And since my truck is more show than go, it should last several years. I just checked it late last summer and after 4 years it still looks brand new.
Right now I am using the carb mount from the Canister filter with a K&N cone air filter attached to the end of it. Works Good and is easy to adjust the carb.(Which I've been doing for the last few hours!)
Trucks running good,but Floods if you look at the choke or accelerator pedal!(While trying to start it)
Yours goes rich huh? Mine goes lean. I am running two of the cheap Fram G-2 inline fuel filter. They are lasting about 70-100 miles before they both start filling up with junk from the fuel tank. something always gets past them. I can tell because I will be driving along at speed and when I let off the throttle to slow down, the exhaust will pop. I know, that should be an indication of rich, but pulling on the choke stops it. Anyway, when it pops while slowing down, it will not idle when I do stop. It also will not drive slow at all unless I apply full throttle. It still runs at speed perfect though. I just pull off the carb, replace both fuel filters, take the float bowl off, blow it out with air or B-12 Chemtool and put it back together again. I'm good until the crud builds up again. I have yet to see anything in the needle/seat area or the bowl, but it will run perfect only after I do all of the above. Just pulling the needle and seat out will not fix it.
I have issue with the accelerator pedal set-up,first I thought that someone had rigged it (Not you Doug!) and then I looked at the manuals and it's stock.Very grabby and uneven. I come from more of a Muscle Car/Hot Rod background so this Military technology is gonna take some getting used to. I see alot in the designs of things on the truck that would make it easy to fix anywhere,which makes sense in an odd way.
I dig this vehicle! :D
barrman some time when you have time take you tank down to you local radiator shop and have them dip it and coat it and it will seal the rust and get rid of the crud had to do this to about 5 or six motorcycle tanks and they worked perfectly ever since just a suggestion us it if ya want but i tell you this much it is alot easier to do that once then to have to clean the filters a bunch of times. btw it unually costs around twenty or thirty bucks for this to be done. deoending on rust and time consumed cleaning it.