Pilot Bearing removal....

Have a civvy 230...took out the pilot bushing with the old grease trick...nice and easy....the one thats in the truck...well Kevin came over...after 3 hours of packing grease and pounding with a 5 lb sledge...after tiring of fooling around with the small stuff...the bearing has not moved at all...
Any suggestions? It is in the truck with the flywheel and bellhousing attached...I would rather not have to remove then...better to say Kevin would rather not...and I can see from the civvy engine and flywheel, that there is nothing holding it up from coming out...
Any help appreciated!!
brute4c

Not any help, I had the same problem in my Plymouth and gave up.

If you have a mechanic friend, borrow his (or her) slide hammer kit. If it's a good one, it'll have a three finger attachment that can be set up to grip the inside of a shoulder. I'd think that would do the job.

Chris

I have not seen one of this in person, but. Can you beat in one side like a freeze plug?

or

What are those things called that you use when attaching something to concrete blocks or drywall? Those nuts that go through a hole and then open up like a flower. Just something that will get behind the bearing so that you can use somekind of puller anchored to either the crank or the bellhousing to pull it out.

I like Chris's idea the best though, a slide hammer is probably going to be the ticket.

I have threaded them witha tap then used the correct size bolt to thread in hole and push against rear of crank to push bushing out.

Tim, toggle bolt.
Dave, great idea.

How about a bit of heat with a torch? It might loosen it up...

I guess I should say it is a bushing not a bearing...its an inch long, 5/8ths ID and 13/16ths OD, bronze...at least the used one measures those amounts... It sits flush with the end of the hole in the crank and after the bushing there is about another half inch of room before you hit the end of the 'pocket' it sits in...just in case anyone is wondering...
Dave, heck of an idea...that is what I will try...the bronze is soft, but not incredibly so...should work...I'll let you know...if not the slide hammer might but it might be hard to find an end that small to work...
And thanks to everybody for the help!!!
brute4c

See if you can drill a hole in it at 3 O'clock and 9 0'clock then get a sharp chisle and cut through the remaining webbing at the side of the drill hole. It should start moving then.

The end is broken off actually...pieces were found on the flywheel inner lip...its pretty rough as Kevin cut his finger on it...and now it is kinda beveled inward...roughly of course...good idea with the chisel though...
brute4c

Beat a center punch into it until you can make a small drill work. It should go pretty nicely through the cast bronze. You may have to do it in four place (let it alone Robert) and then beat on piece out if it. (Again Robert).

I just sayin'...

I edited my post above with the dimensions as I measured the civvy one with a micrometer to see what size tap was needed and figured as long as I had exact numbers, someone might want them someday...
The bushing is:
5/8th inch ID
13/16th inch OD
1 inch long
brute4c

hey in stead of the grease try using a product calle "pb catalyst" this stuff will free any thing that can free up so that might be your ticket and you can get it at a local automotive store.
brad in dubuque, iowa

Grand Poobah: I like that. snap-on has a small slide hammer puller, CJ93B is the mumber of it. if you know any mechanics, you could check with them and see if they have one. I have the set and it works great and Id be glad to send it your way if needed. I know that isnt much help now but itll pull em right out with a 2 pnd slide. if you cant find one, a slide hammer dent puller will work. drill a pilot hole in the side of it and screw in the puller and pop it out. good luck.

Jon, to bad you are so far away. I have the slide hammer you need... :(

Well, Kevin has done it again!! Finally got the pilot bushing out. The solution I used was to get a wood/soft metal bit, 1/2 inch diameter by 7/8ths inch long cylinder and a long bit extension for the drill. Cost was a whopping $10.13...less than the price of a tap by a few bucks...
Kevin worked on it slowly, checking his progress after every 5-10 seconds of work, until he was almost through the bushing in one spot. Took about 20 minutes going slow and careful...he said he didnt want to tear the motor apart to put in a new crank... He then hit the thicker wall edge next to the thin spot and since it was so thin, it just broke through the thin part. When it did, it kinda snapped like a spring...he fished it out with a screwdriver...at the break line, one side is now ahead of the other by about 1/8 inch...that broke the tension for sure...and right at 1/8th inch in length had been sheared off the tranny end of the bushing.
The outside of it is scored pretty much from end to end in circular patterns...probably from install? The inside is rough but the hole in the crank is fine.
Now to get another bushing here....
It was kinda fun to look in the cab, tranny cover off, with Kevin sitting under the truck and his hair sticking out the tunnel opening working away...one stap closer to a running rig...
maybe for the FE...not holding my breath though...
brute4c

Brute,

Glad to hear it! I had about the same trouble you had and got on the Zone sunday morn to see how you had handled it. The idea of tapping the bushing worked for me. I stuck a small socked inside, then tapped the bushing and as the tap went in the bushing came out.

You have 8 weeks until the FE. Plenty of time to get your truck running, tested, and down there. Think positive!
-B.

Well 8 weeks of "I cant work on the thing cause my shoulder/clavicle/neck are killing me" doesnt do me any good...
Actually I was thinking of doing the tap, but since a stock one is 5/8ths inside and mine was chewed some, I would have needed at least an 11/16ths...which I would have had to order for about $16, or spend $20 and go to a 3/4 size, but the OD is only 13/16ths and I didnt want to be that close...figured for the softer material of the pilot bushing, sintered bronze I believe, that it was just as easy to "chow" it out...spent just over $10 besides what I'll end up paying Kev...probably have to give him the truck...
brute4c

I know you already got it out, but I thought i'd add a little trick. We took some bread (that's right plain old white bread) and crammed the hole in the bushing full. Then took a round "punch" (I used a round ratchet handle) and pound it in there. it works like the grease thing, but the bread is stiffer and gets more oomph!. I LMAO when i heard of it, but it did the trick for my truck. It did take several slices though.

Well the saga continues....I ordered a new bushing from Memphis Equipment...I just knew that $3.64 price was a steal...well it arrived yesterday...ID is the only measurment that is correct...OD is 1/32nd too small...just slides in and out of the crank...and its 1/4 inch shorter, 3/4 as opposed to 1 inch stock...now to get a hold of Memphis and see if this is what is actually listed or if they sent me the wrong one....YIKES!!!!!
If it werent for the FE, we'd be talking swap time....
brute4c

Brute4c,
If it all fails, go to ANY reputable machine shop in your area, with some dimensions and they should be able to turn a bushing out of bearing bronze very quickly and inexpensively. Heck, if I had the material, I would do it myself at work in 10 minutes :D

Have you tried going to your local automotive parts place and ordering a pilot bushing for a 65 J200 with the 230 engine? It could be as easy as that...

Someone posted before that they tried several automotive places and all of them had the same part...which was too small to fit the input shaft...ID was too small...so guessing thats not gona do it...there is one decent machine shop...guy probably can work me one...good idea!!
brute4c

If they give you a hard time, get me the material and some dimensions, and I'll machine it for you.

Brute, this has happened before. Someone on the old board had the same problem with memphis equip. and if I remember correctly the post had an update with the solution. It was probably a year ago so you may have to fire up the way-back machine to find it.

OK....I'll see if I can figure out how to do that...the old board dont work for me either right now...
brute4c

Too late now, but a bolt with the threads ground back about 1/4 inch to get them started and a 1/2" drive impact wrench and appropriate socket has always sucked them right out, just find a tight fitting bolt. No tap necessary, the bushing is plenty soft enough to get started.

I have had zero luck buying parts for my 230, I think it is much easier and less frustrating to install a small block. Better get after it though, I drove mine in on a six and out with a V8 in 21 days, could have beat that considerable, but life does have other demands. Glen