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I just got this motor for my 715 and had some dumb questions about it:
Anyone know a part number of an oil filter?
I got some AC delco R44T plugs with it- is that the right ones?
Is the block basically use the internals of a regular 427 except when ordering pistons?
Anyone know a truck or car that had a regular 427 in it that I can use at Napa when looking up parts? Gaskets and such.
I appreciate the help.
-B.
Corvettes,Camaros,Novas,.............check out this sitehttp://www.roadsters.com/bbc/
it's a fairly common Big Block. You should have gone with a 396 though!
The truck 427's used a 2 quart filter that is the same as a pf35 ac or 1061 wix as used on pickups except for extra length/capacity. you can also use these filters on pickups for extra capacity. the engine should have a steel crank and 8 quart pan. as for parts, just ask for '77 c-60 truck with 427.
I'm pretty sure you can use the same spin on as your 350...or get one for early 70's 454. I buy most of my big block stuff referencing 454 chevelle or monty. Because you'll be throwing away the rubber gaskets at the front and rear of the intake manifold, you can get a 454 gasket set and be fine with it. Before you get to ordering pistons, you should check the bores. Keep in mind the thing was a crate motor so the cylinder wear may be hardly anything. I had a burnt piston in mine and the bores were great. One new piston and a set of rings and I was going back together. When you get it cooked, cam bearinged, and new freeze plugged at the shop...have them check the bore for you. If it's good get them to hone it for cast rings. You have two options for purchasing pistons. 1) Buy stock replacement pistons which are the heavy four ring jobbies built to last forever or 2) buy a set of +.400" steel rods (roughly $400) and then run standard short deck (car block) 427 pistons. They'll net you a little higher compression and they'll be lighter. I'd lean toward sticking with simple and seeing if you need new pistions. Try eBay for '427 truck', that'll usually bring up a couple and occasionally a guy has new piston sets CHEAP!
Thanks all!
I'm not planning to rebuild the motor unless it needs it as I have been down that road....and am still going down it. If I get the thing on a run stand and it has decent compression, doesn't smoke like a SOB, doesn't have oil in the water or water in the oil, and isn't knocking then I think I'll just replace what gaskets I need to and run it.
I have learned that 1) I am no Mr. Goodwrench and 2) my obsessive compulsive dissorder makes me want to over-tinker a motor. That 350 I have has enough hours put into it to have built 5 regular motors, and it still is only mild.
Anyhow, I'm excited with all this as I had sorta gotten to a stand-still with my truck and this breathes new life into the hobby.
I'll have more questions, but these answers will get me started.
-B.
You may want to at least put a High volume melling pump on it. I did this with mine and found the gear section of the pump to be about 1/4" deeper, which is GREAT, and the pickup tube mount is at stock height. HV pump and steel sleave pump drive shaft (if it doesn't already have one) would be the best insurance you could buy.
That, and HEI, a car water pump for ease of plumbing, and you should be flying!
Car water pump? It looked like the water problems I was going to have were with that big 6" diameter inflow pipe. That thing his HUGE. The outflow one looked to be the size my 350 had.
I also noted that the power steering pump appears that it might not fit in the stock spot in my motor compartment as it could be close to the steering shaft.
Tell us all- why the 2 thermostats? It's neat, but why?
-B.
that's a mystery to me too.
Brian, get that book I mentioned earlier. Despite the warning, they'll sell it to you.
My guess on the two thermo's is that if one fails, the truck will not overheat and it will still function, the other is to promote more coolant circulation due to the doubled oulet flow.
I used the stock truck pump and used a 90* transitional pipe fitting. I got one that fit up to the monster mouth of the pump and had a somewhat standard hose size on the other side of it. I did a little machining to clean out threads and some other jazz which is why I HIGHLY recommend going with a traditional...like 454 chevelle/monty or 454 3/4-1 ton truck in the 70's. Use those same car/truck powersteering mounts too to get rid of that low slung drum you have now.
You were talking about the radiator hose in the first 1/2 of that post, and then the last sentence was the only part about PS pumps?
I got lost as I have been drinking and am almost drunk now.
-B.
-B, can I have your 350?
Thanks
Chris
My guess on the two t-stats would be that they insure coolant reaches the highest part of the cooling system and that steam is not trapped up there. Might be that a intake issue would require the coolant to travel down to get to the front of the intake, therefore allowing steam to be trapped in a high point in the rear. Vapor locking in the coolant system could stop all flow thru the rear of the engine.
Some have even gone to the trouble to drill ports into the water jackets around the combustion chamber to keep steam from being trapped in a high point. These ports are then plumbed back to the radiator or the outlet of the T-stat. Makes good sense for extreme situations where high combustion chamber temp might be a problem.
Yo Doug...you know what will cure the steam pocket thing? RPM. Refill the system, then rev it up good a couple of times. Do this a few times, topping it off each time and there will be nothing to worry about. Also, if you've ever seen the size of the inlet port on the water pump you think that something would need to be done to get more flow on the outlet. It's gotta be like a 3" inlet.