Brake Maintainance Q

OK, I give up. How the heck is one supposed to get the friggin' brake drums off??? It looks like there are 2 or 3 (I can't remember how many) flat slotted screwdriver "plugs" (for lack of a better word) that hold the brake drum to the inner hub. Is there a special tool that I need, or just a really BIG screwdriver? :shock: Also, any suggestions as to how to loosen them? For obvious reasons, I can't use WD40 near my brake pads!

After having so much trouble with my MC, etc, I want to pull all the drums and check/replace the wheel cylinders and possibly just replace the entire brake system with new metal lines and new hoses. There's just something about a 30+ yr old rubber brake line that bothers me.

Oh, and do I need the axle nut tool to remove the brake drum? Or will the drum separate from the hub after I loosen those screws/plugs?

Many thanks from someone who has never worked on these brakes.

I used an impact screwdriver. Its a little doohicky that turns the slotted screw bit when you hit it with a B.F.H.

Yes on the impact screwdriver along with a BFH. Make sure the web of your thumb is not near the edge. I actually broke a Craftsman impact driver trying to take my drums off. I now own a $173.00 Snap-On set that gets them loose on the first hit. Actually, my school now owns it.

Once the screws are out, the drum is free to come off...it would be a good idea to use anti seize compound when putting them back together to avoid the 'stick' you have now...very common.
On mine the heads twisted right out when we tried them with a screwdriver...like playing in butter near...I had to drill them out...if anyone needs to know...you can drill them with a 1/4 inch drill all the way through the canter of the screw without touching the threads...then use a 3/8ths bit and when you get to the end of the tapered head of the screw, it will twist off...then you can take the drum off and I had no problem locking a vise grip onto the threaded part of the shaft from behind and turning out the stub.
Hopefully the impact driver will do you...for most people it does!!
brute4c

Thanks for the help. I'll try that. I have an electric and a REAL air impact gun. It'll be a while B4 I can get to it. Working for the next week straight and then have a family wedding to go to. Good to know about the drilling out procedure. <g> Altho, if they don't budge the first time, is it OK to try a little heat from a MAPP torch? Or is that bad for the drum? Thanks guys!

I dont think a little heat will hurt...if ya gotta make the whole drum smoke and turn red....well....
brute4c

Get some PB Blaster! That stuff will loosen anything. Spray the screws so it soaks into the treads and let it sit for a day or so, and then try them with the impact. You will most likely get them loos that way. Also I think you need a hand held impact tool not a air gun. You know the type you hold with one hand and hit it with your purswader in your other hand. That is what they were talking about with the BFH (Big Friggen Hammer). I have a nice 10lbs sledge with a short handle...gets things loose fast...:)

Do you need to put those three screws back in? Whats that worst that could happen with out them? It's not like the lug nuts wont hold the brake drum on, right?

Well, thats a good question....
It has been said that without the screws the drum wont be located correctly over the pads and may wear funny....personally, I never put mine back in...I epoxied the holes in the drums closed to keep mud and such from having a freer entry point, but never reinstalled screws....it has been about 10000 miles and I dont see any negative aspects.
On another note, I did buy the screws when I was at VPW's because I started wondering why the factory would go to all the trouble of setting up the drums and the rest to take the screws...alot of work for no reason...
There probably is a subtle engineering reason for them....plus it can't hurt if you can get them out easily in the future...nice coat of anti seize compound on the new ones...
brute4c

Sorry. I called my impact wrench an air gun. WRONG terminology. I always correct my customers at work when they ask for "lenses" and they really are asking for screw on "filters". When I get back from AZ at the end of this month, I'll start working on the brakes.

RE the purpose of the screws, they might have been there to simply hold the drum on during assembly. I read that some newer trucks have these sheet metal tabs that hold the drum on @ the factory. You have to be aware of this when you go to aftermarket wheels that may not have the space bored out and thus cause the wheel to be mounted wrong. That's my theory to throw into the idea pot.

When I finally got the screws out of the drums, I replaced them with a similar countersunk socket head cap screw and used anti-sieze compound.

My first impression was they may have been the clips the assembly line uses....once at a shop my brother worked at, a customer gave him a hard time until he put the clips back on cause if the factory installed them, they should be there, someone at the factory missed removing them...anyway, I wonder with the level of machining that went into this setup, drilling and beveling the drums and setting the threads in there, maybe there was more engineering involved in it for reason(s) which we havent uncovered....I guess better safe than sorry...
brute4c

I used a large screwdrive which completely filled the slot in the screw. I applied pressure to the screw driver w/ my body by holding the axle w/ one hand and pulling. I used the other hand to turn the screwdriver - I clamped on a some vice-grips for extra leverage. I took some force but all the screws came out. I did anti-seeze on before replacing them. I did not use a hand impact because I didn't have one - I may consider purchasing one in the future.

I guessing here, I believe the only function the screws play is to properly position the brake drum over the axel. I would not re-install my drums without them as I believe it could shorten the life of brake components if the drums were not centered.