barrman : Wiring Diagram

Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 14, 2006, 3:17pm

Since I have been on a paint spree the last few months, I have started looking for small parts to paint while I have the gun all loaded up for the bigger stuff.

I found my solid state turn signal box. It was on my truck when I got it with the wires screwed into it, but cut off about 4 inches later. I removed the box and stuck it in my pile of parts. I also recently came into posession of a solid state turn signal switch, (Thanks again Steve) I already had a broken one that came with my spare axle purchase that was broken it had the wiring in the exact same condition as the box. Now that I have both ends along with the wiring plugs for both. I need to figure out if they work and how to wire them up. Does anyone know which pins on each end do what? I know about Star Electric and the wiring loom they offer. I just want to make sure my components work before I go ordering just the wires.

I also while messing with my gauges this weekend discovered something about my 3-lever switch. (I got the truck with the switch installed, but the wires cut off about 3 inches behind the plug. I pulled the switch out, installed a tach in the hole and have lived without it for the last 5 years.) Anyway, it seems that was a replacement switch or something because there is another plug behind the steering column that is hooked to wires that go through the firewall. The fire department ran parallel wires for everything that either broke or they couldn't figure out. Therefore, I have a hug rats nest of wires under my hood. Some stock and some added. None marked. A diagram about what pin does what for the switch would be great. Along with what should happen for each lever moved would really be good.

Thank you.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by compexp on Aug 14, 2006, 4:17pm

this should have some answers:


http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/man...g/lighting.pdf

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by brute4c on Aug 14, 2006, 5:08pm

This page has the early harness detailed...but it does list the 3 lever switch pretty well...guess there may be a couple changes for the later switch...will have to edit them in:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=early_harness

The 3 lever switch functions are defined in the -20 maintenance manual, Chapter 2, section 17


If you note the harness on this page for the turn convert swap, the wires at the solid state switch are marked A, B and grd...the rest all come from the turn signal switch ....the which wire is which is down the page there...if that doesnt cover them all let me know:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?...signal_convert

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 14, 2006, 6:59pm

Thanks guys. That is what I get for not checking the online manuals recently. I printed them all out 5 years ago, pretty much memorized what was and wasn't there and seemed to forget that stuff has been added since.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 15, 2006, 11:25am

This has now become a class project for my students. I printed out the schematic Rich posted the link to. My students are going to make sure all the individual lights work. Fixing the ones that don't. I have a spare housing for all the lights already in my room. We are then going to wire up the entire light system on a workbench. Once everything works or we figure out what is broken. I am going to paint all the parts, get mil spec wire, the metal tabs and connectors. Then I can rip out most of the really bad wiring under my hood and replace it with the proper stuff with the proper switches over a weekend. I will of course have to cut a hole in my dash for the 3 lever switch to fit since its original home is now occupied by a tachometer. I think there is plenty of clearance on the left of the column for it to fit and not hit the defroster duct. It will look like a Duece almost then. Any suggestions on how to cut the hole? I was thinking two cuts with a hole saw and a sawzall to connect them.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by brute4c on Aug 15, 2006, 11:52am

That would be my approach...as long as the holes dont overlap already...probably dont,so the sawzall or an angle grinder to finish...

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by sermis on Aug 15, 2006, 12:33pm

Tin nibbler to cut between the holes. less likley to get anything behind the dash and less viberations.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by binfordm715 on Aug 15, 2006, 7:24pm

I think the holes will overlap enough that you won't need a nibbler or sawzall. In fact, they *may* overlap a bit too much. In that case, I'd just score the two with the overlapping hole saw and then nibble them out.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by snuffy on Aug 15, 2006, 9:15pm

That would be a pretty cool project to work on as a student.

How long do you think it will take them to complete the wiring?? Just want to know when they can start on mine.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by k8icu on Aug 15, 2006, 9:26pm

If I'm understanding you right you are going to make a new wiring harness for your truck? Do you have the amphenol connector for the main light switch as well as the ones for the turn signals or are you going to get them when you get the wire and connectors?

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 16, 2006, 8:01am

By Amphenol I assume you mean the screw in cannon plug? I have the plug for the back of the 3 lever switch with wires going as far as the firewall and beyond. I have the screw on plug for the blinker switch and the flasher box. Both of those have wires that go about 4 inches.

I was going to use those components to just hand twist together wires that will complete the circuits in my room. Once I am convinced everything works, I will count up how many connectors I need and about how much wire. Order the stuff with blank metal tags. Stamp the tags with the proper numbers and then make the harness on the truck so the stuff is the right size. I am going to add the Packard plugs in places I think are convenient instead of where they might have been from the factory. That way, I can pull it all apart again at a later date without having to leave the wires hanging somewhere because they won't fit through the hole in the firewall.

Of course, putting stock tail lights on the back is going to mean I have to remake my back bumper for the 3rd time in 5 years. I still want and need the ball type hitch for my trailers. I will think of something.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by brute4c on Aug 16, 2006, 8:44am

What source are you using to get the connectors and blank metal tags?

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by sermis on Aug 16, 2006, 8:50am

Ball hitch. Try a reciever hitch that bolts to the frame like on normal pickups. I saw a post where they added one to an M35 bolted to the frame. had the pentel hitch and a receiver hitch.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 16, 2006, 8:52am

I talked to Kevin at Star Ordanance Monday. He has blank tags for $.25 each and used connectors of a tank or something (male and female) with long runs of wire attached for $1.25 each.

Don't you guys go buying up all the inventory before I make my order either.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by brute4c on Aug 16, 2006, 10:09am

I found a supplier when I was at the Iola show that has about 1.5 to 2 foot long wires with the smaller, I call them male, ends on both ends....$10 for a bundle of 10 or so....

They also hade a little doodad that had one of the male ends on one end and 3 female ends on the other with one of the sealed rubber covered connectors between....this is about 4 inches long total...like a buck a piece....they had metal tags on them but were stamped...

I talked to Kevin at the show...he said he didnt have anything when I asked on Saturday....

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 16, 2006, 11:57am

Steve,
The problem with bolting a hitch below the pintle hook is the spare tire mount. Even though my XZL's won't fit there now, I don't want to make that a non option in the future.

Jon,
I caught Kevin walking in the door from the show. He probably just didn't have what you wanted with him.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by sermis on Aug 16, 2006, 9:06pm

Slide the reciver hitch towards the back. it might stick out a little from the back cross member but if you go with the bunmerets it will look simi ok and clear the spair. if you go with a pipe bumper of some type have it drop below the bumper. Wish now I would have done that with mine. I just welded a short reciever tub to the cross member below where the pintail hitch would go. the M725 did not have the pintail hitch.....I gave you the one I thought about putting on but I don't think it would have cleared the fold out steps anyway.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by barrman on Aug 17, 2006, 7:57am

Steve, Sermis,

My students have cleaned that pintle all up. You want it back before I paint it? I have a full width pipe bumper on it now. I was thinking about just cutting the ends off and putting the stock tail lights in the stock location. At least until I can find some bumperettes and such.

Steve, Kwai,

Thanks for the translation.

Jon,

I bought 20 male plugs and 20 female plugs un assembled from Kevin last night at $1.00 each. I also got 20 feet of mil spec black 12 gauge wire at $1.00/foot. He sold me the special crimiping tool to assemble the plugs for $20.00 and I bought 40 blank metal tags for $.25 each. That should be enough to get my blinker system pre-wired, all my signal light buckets with good pigtails and ready to install.

He didn't tell me how many of each he actually has, but when I told him he might be getting more calls for them, he sounded like he could handle it.

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by brute4c on Aug 17, 2006, 8:55am

Great info Tim..THANKS!!

Re: Wiring Diagram
Post by k8icu on Aug 17, 2006, 9:52pm

There is a guy on e-bay that has the brand new ends with the metal instide and the rubber outside forsale all the time. Might be Franks Surplus but I'm not sure. Its like a box of 100 or so. I find it listed under M715 and M151.