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dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by maccj715 on Jul 11, 2006, 11:08pm
into jeep just finished 73 cj5 had to find new project in comes 69 m715 can any one tell me what lockers will fit the dana 60 and 70? maybe who has them ? are the guts common or m715 only i have a dana 70 posi unit from a ford one ton but would hate to tear the rear end down only to find it wont fit help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by robertcowan on Jul 11, 2006, 11:33pm
i,ve got power locks and lockers for the m715 if you need them. the rear dana 70 is all special for the m715 but the front is standard dana 60.
bob 1 423 384 8938 or email me
bcowanwheels@aol.com
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by maccj715 on Jul 11, 2006, 11:49pm
thanks ill get back with you soon i'm doing my normal thing when i buy a new 4x checking and changing all the oils and was dismayed to find the front with an open carrier i havent done the rear yet but expect it'll be open also. will get back with you when i check the rear
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by robertcowan on Jul 11, 2006, 11:52pm
its open if its stock. grease all you fitting i bet there all dry, change tranny oil & t-case 4 sure too. welcome to the zone. we want all the friends we can get.
bob
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by brute4c on Jul 12, 2006, 8:37am
Dana 70 rear
#1 option. Detroit "no spin"
The part # for the Detroit Dana 70 no-spin is: DET225S-14
Where can you get one?
http://www.jawsgear.net/ is lowest price I have found $335.00 plus $35.00 shipping
Randy's Ring and Pinion wanted $385.00
Reider Racing wanted $415.95
Randys Ring and Pinion http://www.ringpinion.com/
Reider Racing http://www.reiderracing.com/home.htm
Installation:
First off, read the directions provided with your locker.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=locker_manual
This is a lunch box style locker, you do not have to remove the ring gear from the carrier. You simply remove the spider gears and replace them with the locker. Spider gear shims, or spacers are also removed and NOT reinstalled. A case spreader is NOT needed to remove the carrier from the case.
Expect to spend no more than 3 hours to complete this project. This includes cleaning, inspecting parts, and installing. In reality, you may be done long before the three hours are up....all depends on how well prepared you are.
Torque Specs:
35 to 55 on the case halves....
The bearing caps call for 100-120 in the military manuals.
Civy manuals say 80 to 108.
My bolts stretched when I was at app 110. Not cool. I replaced them with (4) grade 8..... 1/2" by 16TPI 2 3/8 long IIRC.
I suggest you do the same also. Talked to many others that have had the same results.
I would recommend 90 to 100.......NO MORE!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dana 60 Front:
from Reider Racing, 01/03/96 (yes, OLD)
Dana 60 30 SPL LOCK-RIGHT Item #60D/LKR30 and dig this $350.00
Installation Notes:
If anyone wants to *cheat* when installing their front lockers...here's how:
Instead of having to disassemble all that crap at the ends of the axles, ie- drive flange, gobbs of grease to spindle nuts (special deep socket too) hub removal, spindle removal slobbed with more grease...you can try this- what I did way back when.
Slap the front axle on some jackstands.
Remove front wheels. Drum removal is optional, but it will be a little less weight to manage later if you pop them off at this point.
Remove the ring of bolts that holds the knuckle felt and seal on the backside of the closed knuckle. These are what seal the knuckle 'ball.' -This is also a good time to replace them if needed. Replacement seal is split so you can slip it around the axle tube, felt you can cut with scissor at top and slip it over no problem.
Take the upper and lower 4 bolt king pin assy's out. When removing the lower one...try not to drop the timken bearing into the crud you'll now have on the floor below it. Smile
Get another jackstand and put it near you at this point-
With the king pins out, get a good grip on the whole knuckle assy, give'er a wiggle and start to pull it out. Once the knuckle seperates, be sure that the axle shaft is pulling out with the knuckle assy. If it isn't just reach in and help it along.
You'll only need to pull this whole assy out 8"-10," just enough to be sure the axle is pulled clear of the differential.
Support hub (or drum) on that other jackstand.
-Do the same to the other side.
Oh, you'll prolly want to pull the diff cover first...but it really doesn't matter.
Now will all that jazz slid out you'll be able to MARK THE CAPS on the differential carrier, pop them off, drop the diff on your hand or finger then pop off the ring gear to be able to dump the spider gears and slap in your new lunch box locker.
There is really only ONE note that needs particular attention when going back together. The UPPER kingpin has a keyed something-or-other that needs to be put back in proper position. No big deal, just spend a minute to make sure it goes back on right and you're golden.
Spicergear-
Only addition to that info is also from Spicer....when he told it to me a while back.....where he says:
Quote: <TABLE class=bordercolor cellSpacing=1 width="90%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE class=quote cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">Take the upper and lower 4 bolt king pin assy's out. When removing the lower one...try not to drop the timken bearing into the crud you'll now have on the floor below it.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Also note that there are shims in there. Keep each set with its appropriate side and location for reassembly to make things go easy on yourself.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by redneck1 on Jul 13, 2006, 12:45am
This is from http://www.jawsgear.net/ DET225S-14 32 Spline $393.75
The price has gone up.But it is still worth it I went everywhere I wanted to at the F.E. and around here.Don't drive it on the road though the Detroit loves to eat tires.
Crab walks under power,If you do drive it on pavement gas it til you get in a curve the mash the clutch in to relieve pressure on the locker.It helps a little.
Redneck1
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by tacomainoh on Jul 13, 2006, 1:42am
or if you've got an automatic, just coast through the turn. Ditto on the eating tires part, regardless of how easy you treat it in turns.
Makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE if you're using your truck for harder stuff offroad. Sucks in snow though, and wet crowned roads...
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by redneck1 on Jul 13, 2006, 4:14am
Quote: <TABLE class=bordercolor cellSpacing=1 width="90%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE class=quote cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">Sucks in snow though, and wet crowned roads... </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
We don't get that stuff down here.
I saved my spider gears just in case though.
I would love to have about a 2 feet of snow just to see what I could tear up.
Redneck1
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by boghog on Jul 13, 2006, 7:27am
Welcom to the Zone! The lockers are the shizzle, gotem in my cj5, took it out in the snow on the road, VERY SCARY! had to drive with one hub unlocked. My 715 has one in the rear, if I decide to get a locker for the front it will be selectable. I want to have the truck be more of a DD.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by whydah on Jul 13, 2006, 9:03pm
detroit makes a true detroit locker for the rear of the 70, in addition to the no-spin. let me know if you need the p/n.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by kwai on Jul 13, 2006, 9:21pm
Edjucate me. What's the difference between the true detroit locker and the no-spin locker for the 23 spline D70. I thought they were the same?
Please post the part number if you have it.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by robertcowan on Jul 13, 2006, 9:43pm
me too teach on please.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by jeepistdougiowa on Jul 13, 2006, 10:14pm
There'll be some confusion as Detroit refers to complete carriers as "no spins" in some of thier literature.
Some seem to think the "no spin" is a "lunch box" locker...because of the way it installs. You split the carrier and drop it in in place of the spider gears and reassemble. Sorta like putting something in a box and closing it...LOL
They also prefer believe a "true" locker is a complete carrier assembly...not just an add on part to your existing carrier.
Personally I don't know what's right...LOL
No spin (lunch box)
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/man...ker/step11.jpg
Complete carrier manufactured as a locker
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Improvem...Picture033.jpg
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by binfordm715 on Jul 14, 2006, 12:46am
Sorry, Doug. That didn't answer the question for me at least.
What is the performance difference?
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by jeepistdougiowa on Jul 14, 2006, 1:09am
The lower pic is a purpose built design with a lot more meat where it counts, much stronger.
The lunch box is designed to fit inside your current carrier and strength is limited due to the confines of that space.
I run a lunch box and have abused it pretty hard at times IMO...no issues yet. It's cheaper and easier too,,,not saying it's the way to go, but it works for me so far. No gear setup for us novices either.
Re: dana 60 and 70 lockers?
Post by tacomainoh on Jul 14, 2006, 1:58am
The 14bolt Detroit is pretty stout. Next step up in strength is like, a spool.