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just bought a set of xl`s for the truck,used $100 each,good shape. now having trouble with a valid source for tubes and flaps, sites i`ve seen on here lead me nowhere,out of business? anybody have a source that you`ve dealt with in the past year? local shop have no clue! HELP!!
I bought my tubes from gemplers. They are 900x16 tubes. The local les schwab supplied the flaps, they had them in stock. I think the tube part numbers were TR77A. I put 1100x16 XZL tires on my stock rims which I had les schwab powder coat black. You should be able to do a web search for gemplers I think they are based in wisconsin.
try here: http://tireinnertubesforsale.com/
ask for Rusty.
Is that International Tire & Tube's new site, Kwai?
The only trick with the tubes is that the valve stem needs to be long enough, and have the right bend in it. (TR75A stem?)
If Kwai's link doesn't work, try here:
International Tire & Tube
1218 Brittmoore Rd
Houston, TX 77043
(713) 973-8880
Kwai's link will probably work though....knowing Kwai! ;)
It is their site and the link works.
I had the same problem. I bought Michelin XL's for $100 each, and couldnt figure out where to get tubes. You just use regular 9X16 radial tubes with the valve stem in the middle. I guess the tubes that go with the original tires do not flex enough? Out of desperation, I used 7.50X16 radial tube on one tire, and its been fine ( for a couple months now). I had a flat, no spare, but Adirondack Tire had these 7.5X16 in stock for $20 a piece.
i would think that any place that sells tractor tires would have those tubes. They are pretty common in the 11.00x16 size for the front of tractors. Our local co-op has them in stock all the time. Incidentally that is who will be mounting my new xzl tires. I don't mess around with split rings on wheels. Snakeater
As I mentioned, the right valve stem is the real trick. At the last National FE, Barrman got a correct tube, but the valve stem just wasn't long enough and/or at the right angle so the tube simply couldn't be used. I'm not saying only one valve stem design will work, but what I AM saying is that there are some that won't. Caveat emptor.
You can "make" any of them work. A pair of vice grips, 3 people and the knowledge that Tim was bringing a fully mounted XL along allowed me to get that tube to fit.
By the way, I bought a pair of the correct tubes from Rusty when we got back from the FE, installed one and put that tire on the truck. Making the small stem a mounted tire in the horse barn that I would swap out "later." Almost a year to the day later when pulling back into my drive from a week long trip to Boy Scout camp in the M715 I had a flat on the same tire. The small tube tire got put on and I haven't gotten around to fixing the correct tube yet. Matter of fact, I rolled the not holding air correct tube assembly out of the way yesterday while cleaning up some. I guess CCR had it right 40 years ago. "Someday never comes."
Heh, heh, heh....
I thought you gave up trying to use that tube and just went with my spare XL. Or do I remember wrong (as with most everything else these days!)?
I had the flat on my XZL on I-25 south of Pueblo Sunday. I patched the tube and it held air at KOA just fine. Did the trails with it Thursday and it waited until the last 5 miles to blow again.
We put your XL on Thursday night and called/wrote Ryan about bringing a tube since my spare tube had also been used and was beyond repair. I ran the trails Friday with your XL on my truck.
Al, I think you and myself put the tube from Ryan on my rim Friday evening. I ran the trails with it Saturday and had no problems. I ran it at home until new tubes showed up. That short stem tube got left assembled and holding air in my barn until one of the replacements tubes went flat this summer. Now the short stem tube is on the truck and doing good. I actually got the duck billed hammer out the other night to change both tubes out. However, the Whistler heater was calling me and seemed easier. It wasn't and now the M715 tires still aren't fixed and heater parts are scattered all over the cab, engine bay and bed. Maybe this weekend for the tires.
based on YOUR experience at the natl fe i bought 7 new tubes. 4 on the ground, one spare tire, two spare tubes under the seat. its been my history to never need the spare (carb, water pump, fuel pump, hose, belts, ect.) if i have one. its only what i dont have with me i seem to need. i hope this sort of luck holds true for tubes.....al
I love these tires! Even used, they are the biggest improvement I have made yet, in 3 years so far. I tried searching for what vehicles they were originally made for. I think it was some kind of armored vehicle. Does anyone know? I have a weird pattern of radial bumps on the sidewall, I am not sure if this is a defect, or damage.http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...MyJeep003b.jpg
I went through a number of tubes for various reasons: mud in the rim, scuffing and abrasion until they let go, and just plain mystery flats. I tried the best radial tubes at nearly $60 a pop (literally) and cheap ones at $15 a piece. They don't seem to like a lot of highway miles in my experience. Barrman is correct though, only the right valve stem will fit. Nothing else will. The only problem I had with truck shops, is that most of the tubes they sold had a valve stem that was far longer than the originals. I just used a tubing bender to angle them upward along the contour of the dish of the rim to keep from ripping them off on the trail.
I ordered a set of Marsh wheels and installed my XL's on them and haven't looked back or had to break down a tire on the side of the road since. I think the reason that the military chose lockring rims was so that you'd get really good at changing them often to patch/replace tubes.
The 11.00-16 Michelin tires were used on LAV's by the USMC. The bulges on the sides are normal. All of mine have that to some degree.
Tube I buy from Rusty at International Tire & Tube for an M-37 with Michelin 1100x16 XZL application is their part #11430, listed as '900/10/1100R15/16 TR75A' tube...
Flap is their part #84285d -
My understanding is that you must get a Radial tube for these tires; the Bias Ply tubes don't work well in the Michelin radial tire.
'Tanner'
Someone explained to me that the radial tubes will stretch the right way, when the others dont. I still do not get it, I thought bias-ply tires flexed more than radials. But.
Could it be radial tires heat up more? :dunno:
Dave mounted his 1100-16 tires that I got for him yesterday on his m715 and they used a 950-16 center valve stem tube. Worked great and guy at the tire shop said that they were pretty common in the agriculture world. They kept them in stock in good quantity. Flaps as well. Snakeater
I knnow that the belts in bias ply run parallel to the tread while radials have the belts at 45 degree angles to the tread...this leads to the tires having different types of flex and different heating characteristics...it also means the tire rubs on the tube in different ways, one versus the other...
well its been a couple months since i got the 11.00`s on the stock rims. gateway tire in sharonville ohio had some 10.00 tubes(radial),and some 15/16 flaps. looks great,they`ve been holding air, and it turns a few less rpms. p.s me an a buddy did the split rim dance ourselfs, if you do it loop chain thru the rim holes an padlock it turn it upside down,use a locking air chuck, set air regulator to about 50, then get away while inflating!
You didn't mention the hardest part, getting the lock rings off. But it does sound like a good idea to chain it up and inflate it. I did all of mine last year, the lock ring was the only real obstacle. I even tried making a machine out of an old floor jack, switching the hydraulics to the top, and making it press down with 3 tons force. The tires were so bonded to the metal that the sidewalls started tearing. There is a truck service shop that had a better machine. They used it to remove the 11X16s from the rims. I think I paid $30 for each one? Bad memory
I just finished mounting and balancing my 1100x16's on stock rims. I used an old Kenedy Tool duck bill chisel type tool my dad had and a large hammer. The 1st 2 were a chalenge but after I had the hang of it the 2nd two went easy. I bought the tubes and flaps over the counter at Industrial Tire here in Portland then had to go back to buy more weights from them as they all took between 20 and 30 ozs to balance. I bought 4 worn out casings for $50 and had them recapped. Total cost for everthing after mounting and balancing was just under $800.
Lots of WD-40 on the inside of the bead lip all the way around helped alot for me. I used a Hi-Lift jack and two crowbars. http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7536/sunp0260.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by chimesickle
The hi-lift gets the job done, but a duck billed hammer does it faster and easier. Get the fiberglass handle too. You will learn why once you use it.
I should have taken pictures of the rust. Nobody here seems to understand what I had to deal with. The rust flaked off, I could fill a coffee can with the junk on the inside of the rims. The duck billed hammer eventually got the job done. I used every lubricant I know of, and heat. I had blisters on my hands. My neighbor is a truck mechanic, he could hear me banging away for hours and hours. He knew what I was doing.
I can sympathize- 4/5 of the tires that came with my truck took at least an hour a piece with kroil, beating, irons, whatever. It was a heck of a workout- I just did them 1 at a time on separate days. The last one was (I believe) the original tire, tube and flap. The tire was dated in the 60s. That one beat me, I had to take it to work and break the rubber free with some precision loader bucket work. Since I put the 11.00/16s on, I had to break 1 down to change a tube, took like 10 minutes total.Quote:
Originally Posted by chimesickle
The biggest thing I have found, rusty or not, is that you need to push straight down on the bead. Not the sidewall, and not against the can of the rim. You will literally be beating your head against the wall doing it this way.
Since there is no indent in the can of the rim, the tire needs to go straight down. Using the tire hammer, I find that once you move the bead down about 1/2 inch or so, then you can use a hi-lift and the truck to move around the bead and push it down. The key, is getting the base of the hi-lift onto the actual bead and not the sidewall, where it will just slide off, or push ineffectively against the tire carcass.
I understand your rust. I have 5 M35 rims taunting me out in my field right now. None of the tires are date branded newer than 1953. I can hear them laugh when I swing the hammer at them. Actually, I feel that in my hands more than I hear it. They even laugh at the M35 held off the ground for weeks at a time over them with the hi-lift. I leave the lift on there and just pour chemicals on it until the Duece settles back on the ground. Then move the lift over a few inches and continue the science experiment for a few more weeks.
Thank you very much for posting those replies. It shows that you understand and sympathize. The descriptions sound very much like my experience. I hope that the tips and tricks will help anyone else who is contemplating performing the operation. If they are rusty, you will be investing serious time into the project. While you are at it, you might as well, scale it, sand it, prime it, paint it, so it will be easier next time. God bless you all.
I can feel your pain Barrman...sounds like you have a handle on it with that nearly unlimited patience and ingenuity of yours...great info!!
Yeah, thanks Barrman. Good luck!!!
I wonder if anyone else tried using an old floor jack to pinch the bead? Switching the bottle jack isnt easy, I used a separate jack, made some brackets, then welded an old rim for the radius on the saddle plate(?)
I think I am going to try it again, build it better, with a real two way hydraulic cylinder, and a valve to control direction. I would rather not swing a hammer, I banged up my rims with the misses.
I am sure everyone here has at least one old 3 ton trolley jack that no longer works. I would love to see someone build a good one.
I figure why waste, why scrap, when you can still make something useable. The things already have heavy duty hinges built in, and stay parallel when swinging the arc.