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I'M trany stupid. My 715 has a 350 chev and a T350 trans out of a 76 camero. My question is - what all is involved in putting a 700r4 behind the sbc or will it bolt right up, is there a difference between the 6 banger and v8 700r4s, my best guess would say the 700r4 is no more or less than a couple inches longer or shorter than the T350 am I correct? I don't have a 700r4 yet but I'm looking. Got one Email me. :lol: see wanted section.
The 700R4 is around 3" longer than a TH350. It should be the same bolt pattern.
It's longer, same bolt pattern. Get an older one w/out the electronic lockup. If you get a later one you'll need a standalone computer deal. I have one, needs to be rebuilt.
what do you mean a stand alone computer deal? what do I need where to get it any thing else a dumbas$ like me needs to know.
oh and what does the electronic lockup,lockup?
Thanks Tacoma and anyone else who answers.
The torque converter on that tranny will never lock up, for better fuel economy at higher speeds, without a signal from somewhere....unlike older converters that locked up manually at a given speed/gear point, the newer ones are controlled through the computer that runs the rest of the engine and drivetrain stuff. If your not running all the rest of the drivetrain, you wouldnt have the computer, so there would be nothing to send the converter the signal to lockup. Thus the stand alone computer...basically you end up with a box hooked to the system that locks and unlocks it automaticaly...many kits have a button that you can turn on and off to lock and unlock the converter manually...I would think this has obvious advantages for towing/heavy loads and other reasons.
I do not know where to get these, but if you look around the web and find places that rebuild/high perf build those trannies, most likely they will have the kits for the lockup as well, or links to someone who does.
brute4c
Thanks Brute. Hope your feeling better. I'll look around and see what I find.
ok guys here's the skinny-according to this site (and the only one I looked at so far) www.transmissioncenter.net/highperf700r4.htm you don't need the computer just a switch and some wire to lock up the tconverter.they sell this set up for $45 (yea right), they also sell a vacum switch and some other do-dads. warning this is a huge page so if you are on dail up give it a half hour or so. I think I will look some more and ask a few people about before I burn somthing up.
the part # is #12 about a 1/4 of the way down the page, also look at #60,#71
Get a tranny from a '85 to 91 truck. 82-84 had a 7 instead of 10 vane pump and 92 and later were computer controlled. the non computer ones are easy to hook up. just be sure to get detent cable and carb bracket from donor veh. these trans have no vac. signal and use detent cable position to shift. B&M , Art Carr,and Summit sell the wiring kit to make them work right. you can even reuse your th350 output yoke
Jeff, mine is an 89. Just incase you were wondering.
i have a 700r4 from an 89 firebird, works pretty good. i can go 60 no problem at 2500 rpm. ive had it up to 80 before, but wouldnt recomend it. anyway, it works good, but you need to either move the engine really far forward or fabricate a really small driveshaft to go between the t-case and the tranny. mine has an electronic speed sensor, which is not hooked up (i am still trying to figure out if it effects any engine control systems and such) and a lockup solinoid. if i remember correctly, you just have to run a switch between the lockup wire and ground. this will lock it up in all gears, as opposed to just over-drive which is how it works if it is connected to the computer. this is nice when going uphill in second or 3rd gear for a long time to avoid over-heating the transmission. and it WILL over heat on the highway or on heavy load if you dont use the lockup and a big auxilary trans. cooler, trans. temp. guage is an absolute must also. i cut the bottom red light out of my dash and it fits in perfect right there.
-BrianM
I use a switch on the dash to lock my converter manually. It works good that way if you don't mind operating the switch, which I feel is no big deal. I also used a cv joint with the center section removed for a very short jack shaft. I think that is probably about as close as you can get 2 u-joints to each other. My 700r4 is out of an 87 Chevy pickup and has been beefed up with extra clutches and a Corvette servo, which makes for a very positive 1st to 2nd shift. I've been running it for about 10 years with no problems. It is behind a stock 454.
joe,
i also used a cv joint for the short shaft between the t-case and tranny. do you have any vibration problems with it? i think mine may be out of balence. do you think a driveshaft shop would/could balence somthing like that?
-BrianM
Brian: they can, and you're in luck. Tom Woods is in Ogden. Have fun!
Brian,
Sometimes while starting from a dead stop , especially going up an incline on pavement I'll feel what I would describe as a slight "shudder". I have never been able to figure it out, but I relly haven't tried too hard because it doesn't happen that often and it isn't that bad. While driving down the road, which includes 70 mph runs, I get no vibrations.
Joe
thanks joe, i am getting the "shuddering" also. the other day i put another shim under the mount to prop it up and make the shaft a little more straigt. that seemed to help a lot.
-BrianM
Joe/Ia or anyone else, how did you wire your converter? mine has three wires and is an 89 not sure of the wire colors. going to install it this saturday hopfully.
Thanks
It has been 10 years since we wired up my truck. I do know that besides the switch on the dash we also wired through a brake pedal operated switch. That way when I hit the brakes the converter unlocks. Wet CJ might jump in with better directions as he is the mastermind behind my wiring.
Joe
Cool thanks I've got some other people trying to figure it out if wet cj doesn't respond. i've only got one night to try to get this done, I don't think I'll make it.
I don't remember having but 2 wires. one hot and one ground that I grounded to frame.
yea you want a pre 90 700r4 ,not a 4l60 and try and get a pre 86 so you have the better front pump and 30 spline convertor,the only electronics on a 700r4 is the convetor lookup which you need ,cause it will over heat the tranny and ruin it if you don't also be advised that the cable isn't just a detent cabhle it ius a pressure cable to control line pressure and dels with the shifting ,if this is adjusted wrong ,it will also burn the tranny up ,remember heat is the #1 killer of a tranny ,so install a big cooler and a nice transgo shift kit will take care of a few valve body flaws that are present in these trannys ,you also might want to look into a 2004r there about the same lenght of a th350 just the mounting pad is further back on the tailshaft
ohh and they make a kit for the lockup that activates a switch with manifold vac and when the brake is activated it shuts off the signal and unlocks the convertor ,real nice kit i think it is in the gm performance parts catolog
That was a long time ago but I believe we used a GM brake light switch with 4 terminals (2 for brake lights, 2 for cruise control). Wire converter through the cruise control side, connection is broken when brakes are applied. Todd