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I am trying to get my truck on the road. And, I am working with very limited funds. As such, I am looking to simply rebuild the stock brakes for the time being. I intend to replace the shoes, springs, and hardware. What should I do for the Ebrake (if anything)? What are the odds of having to replace the drums on a truck with 20K miles on it? It rolls just fine.
I figure that like most older trucks, I figure that this one has a lot of extra matierial in the drums... C'est vrai, ou.
Pull them apart and see what is there. Mine just had one cylinder leaking when I got it. I put fluid in it and pumped it up to pressure. I then left it alone for a few hours while I got the engine started. I got it started and the brakes still had full pedal pressure. The brakes haven't used any fluid or lost pedal since. I did finally take each drum off a month or so ago. Three were perfect with good pad thickness. The left rear was grooved really bad. My e-brake was missing the band and all the little parts that hold it on. I had the drum and the handle. I went to several junk yards with a tape measure and finally found all of the parts on the back of a Ford 1-1/2 ton truck transmission. I paid $30.00 for it and it took about 30 minutes to make it fit. I took everything including the handle from the junkyard. That made it easy. Good luck.
Around here rebuilding is just as costly as replacing, if not more but if you can get a deal on relining, go for it.
Pull the rubbers back on the wheel cylinders. If you find brake fluid behind any (you most likely will), replace all 4. Use the Ford ones, at 15 bucks a pop you can't lose.
I'd highly recommend replacing the 3 hoses too. Old brake hoses have been known to swell shut inside or to burst. Rubber reacts with the chemical Ozone and deteriorates over time so I wouldn't trust my life to even NOS 35 year old hoses.
What's the master cylinder look like inside? If remotely doubtful, replace it. The Jeep dual cylinder is around 35 bucks.
I'd bet the drums will need to be turned but will probably have plenty of meat.
I know you want to do it on a budget but yours and many other's lives depend on how good your brakes are.
Chris
Well my truck held pressure 3 years ago or so when I got it, but had a really low pedal. Now however, it doesnt' hold pressure, nor has much of a pedal.
I am betting on replacing the wheel cylinders. Fords sound good. There is info in the old board somewhere on part numbers, etc etc?
Replacing the hoses sound good too... Hell, can't hurt anyway. AB Linn or what?
And, Jeep dual cylinder?? FSJ Cylinder? IS there somewhere for me to look for that info too?
Yea, all the numbers are in the parts file on the old zone. I suggested the Jeep cylinder because it bolts in place only requiring the addition of a short piece of brake line. But if you research it a bit you have a lot of options depending on what you want and how much work you're willing to do.
I'm pretty sure ABLinn has the hoses but personally I wouldn't buy NOS. Unfortunately it seems the only option besides that is braided stainless hoses or custom rubber. Most guys just run the NOS hoses though.
Chris
Well could I order up the braided stainless for a J truck and have em fit? I have no probs with newer parts... with the rust my truck currently has, it'll never win any shows for best restoration anyway. And, once I go to power brakes, be it hydroboost, or the ol caddy booster swap, I'd like something to handle the extra pressure anyway.
I just got back from picking up my shoes and drums. I had all the shoes relined ($90) and all 4 drums turned ($80). They needed a hub to turn them. I replaced all my wheel cylinders with the new Ford model and all my rubber hoses too. I got the hoses from Memphis Equipment and they cost (me) $32 for the set. I don't know what they would cost you since they like me there and cut me a deal.
My springs and such got 2 weeks soaking in an oil/WD40 solution that cleaned them up and also impregnated the steel with oil to prevent rusting.
I plan to put it all back together friday and have basically new brakes.
So- it cost about $300 to do it all that route.
-B.
Relining isn't all it's cracked up to be unless you have a connection. The shoes I bought were 50 bucks an axle - but they did require mods to fit - compared to Brian's 45 bucks. Luckily I knew a mechanic that did the drums for 15 each but they had to be attached to the hubs.
I don't know if the J truck hoses will work. The front wheel cylinder fittings on ours is somewhat odd at 1/4" inverted flare and needing an inch or two nipple of hard line to snake around the steering arms. I had a local shop make up the 3 hoses for 100 bucks and they had to braze the nipples from the stock hoses to the AN fitting.
Chris
Can you guys post the part numbers, sources, and cost of these brake parts. I can't seem to find any of this on the old board (It isn't even working right now - It doesn't seem to like me it just times out when searching).
Thanks.
To the left of the boards are a bunch of links. Find the online manuals link and go there (same as the old board), click on the parts list link and it'll get you where you need to go.
Here's what I used/should have used/etc.
Master cylinder was the Jeep Gladiator dual circuit one Bendix #BXH 11331 at about 35 bucks new.
Wheel cylinders are 93 Ford E-250 rears - Auto Specialty #ASPW93006 (right) and #ASPW93007 at about 15 bucks each new
I used the 320 brake shoes - don't use them. Other applications I found (you'll have to determine if they work):
Jeep J4000 part #2-60r
Mid 80's Chevy dually rear
Jeep Gladiator HD dually rear 8000 gvw part #BS273r
I've found that the numerical part of the shoe numbers is mostly universal but the letter part isn't.
Chris
Thanks