So it looks like I am going to dive in head first and swap out the 230 with a V8 that Fisherman found for me. :eek:
Watch this space for updates.
I will try to be better about posting up pics than I have been with other projects.
Printable View
So it looks like I am going to dive in head first and swap out the 230 with a V8 that Fisherman found for me. :eek:
Watch this space for updates.
I will try to be better about posting up pics than I have been with other projects.
Let me know if you need pics of a 360 already in place.
We'll see who gets done first. You and your wimpy 360 or me and my 4bta :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warthog
That is just hurtfull. :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaWilkins
I will take whatever you got. More info cannot be bad. Will PM you my email address.
Thank you for cutting your teeth on this. I plan to put the AMC 401 I have in my second truck. I'll be glad to follow your progress. I think the frame horns may be perfect allready--but I'll let you find out all that. You running the stock tranny behind it or what?
they sit to high and arnt as heavey duty as the motor mounts out of a full size jeep. Just finished putting in a 360/ t18/ 208 in mine and didnt even have to cut the rear drive shaft SWEEEEEET.
I am going to run the stock T98.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker
From my research, the motor mounts from the J-Truck must be put in the M715 - not quite in the same spot as the M ones. The stock tranny needs the input shaft from the T18 put into it. I hope to leave the t-case in the same location and use the stock trans mount in the stock location. We will see.
Someone that has done it before can chime in here.
You won't need pictures, you'll have the J truck sitting right beside your M truck.. It will be easy as swaps go, a lot of work, but not much to figure out. Use the J truck cable clutch linkage?? or go with new hydraulic stuff?? The bellhousing will dictate where the motor mounts are to go. A little cutting, welding and new input shaft install. Possibly new clutch stuff, install power steering box, bolt up everything and hook up fuel lines, electrical etc. I think after doing mine this one should be quite a bit easier because you have all the pieces.
aw crap did you buy phil's truck? I wanted to buy it. I just pm ed Todd to see if he had talked to him yet. Da-- it
Yes I am. What did you want from it? I only want the motor, trans shaft, and power steering.Quote:
Originally Posted by 503m715
I know someone personally who placed a 360 in his 715 about 10 yrs ago w few modifications. He still uses it today. You will need the core support from a civ truck to allow for a bigger radiator, I know he used the stock trans w a minor mod. and the rest stayed the same. I can find the exact details and let you know. (what engine mount what trans mod specifically. etc)
Good stuff to knowQuote:
Originally Posted by george walker
The radiator core suport can be cut loose, moved over into the other mount hole on the passenger side that the wider radiators use and tacked back in...cut out a little of the flat front plate the support was welded to and good to go.
The area in front of the top of the radiator, from side to side, was cut out by the factory a few inches toward the front...if you have access to a J truck around town or in a salvage yard, you will see what I mean.
Not hard to do that part...
It is easier to cut the stock supports for the radiator then swapping the civi one.
The civi one is an easy swap, but it has different cutouts at the outer part of the wheel well where the fenders meet up.
But, you can use the J truck as a perfect template for how wide to cut the support and move it over.
And here is a picture that shows how close the stock perch location was compared to the J truck location (which is lower btw).
http://froadin.com/images/m715/pass_perch.jpg
I am gonna have to look at the truck for it to make sense. You did not use the T98 in your install right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer
Wondering how the length will compare with the stock set up. Is that where they would sit with the T98 or a T18 in the stock location?
If anyone has good info on the input shaft swap to the T98, I need that too. I think a custom bearing is needed but can't find for sure.
Jeep T18.
Oh, then it would be the same length as the T98. Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer
BTW - I have checked out your site for AMC motor info. Lots of good stuff there.
Some of that info is outdated.
I made the page when I was building my stroker motor. Lots more info out there now about doing it, but there is still plenty of good info there.
One of these days I will get around to rebuilding the site.
Trenton, all you need is like 14 roller bearings for the swap, let me know when you're ready I'll get my guy to get em.
I need to get a "guy".:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by saxon
Thanks, I will let you know.
John, the gear guy gets the nod.
wooo hoooo I got a guy:happy10:Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
So the weekend was spent pulling off all the front clip and getting the motor ready to pull. Hopefully get some pics up soon.
What it looks like today. :eek:
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/203/dscn3677ib2.jpg
Good start!
Now, if ANY of those body bolts are junk, replace them!
Also, running a tap in those thread to clean them up is nice.
I like to make a point of doing that if I know I will be messing with the front clip fairly often. Main reason why I have a couple boxes of brand new bolts just for that purpose.
I was really surprised that I only broke 4 bolts. Two in the font valance and both sides on the bottom of the fender where it connects to the rocker. I put all the hardware into little bags and labeled them with where it came from. Also labled all my wires that I disconnected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer
So far so good.
PB Blaster is your friend for those bolts.
I have a personal peeve against pulling apart front clips. Done it on a lot of FSJs now, and those bolts are nothing but problems!
My new ones are nice and shiny and will last a long time, and guess what? They come out easy even a few years later!
If you reuse the stock type, a little anti-seize is well worth it.
Since 90% of them are the same size, I will prob just go buy a box of new ones. Maybe stainless for the ones that really get lots of water. A little anti seize on everything too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer
And before the flames start, yes I know that stainless does not have the strength of normal alloy fasteners. I never use stainless in a critical area - if I need strength I use grade 8.
Stainless works fine for those.
Or otherwise coated for that matter.
You better give Phil a call, the tree is still on top of the truck. No moving it until the tree is gone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
No surprise there.
Fisherman is graciously helping me get the donor truck home this weekend.
:party:
For all of you that are waiting on status of parts from it, I should know more next week.
I owe you some pictures too. I'll see if I can't get those to you in the next couple days.
You're kidding?!Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
You told me about this truck as a possible parts donor a year ago, didn't you?! And the tree is still on it?!
Phil is a really motivated dude, isn't he?!
Sort of on par with yours truly, come to think of it! :oops:
Yup, he just cut off the tree this week. Thing practically was growing back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Binford
Got the truck home and started tearing into it. Fisherman has a pic of it on the trailer - started to snow on us:rolleyes:
This is what it looks like after my day of destruction.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4198/dscn3691x.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6662/dscn3692.jpg
I am going to tune the motor in the j-truck before I swap it.
Good job you busted on it today. As for me I accomplished nothing today. Oh well, I needed a day of rest, now back to work. Maybe I can stop by with my torch when your ready.
Wow, off to a good start. Looks like a great project and looking forward to following this one. Except for the engine, looks like the donor is pretty much stripped. Will those locking hubs work on a dana 60?