Very nice
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Very nice
Great job.
I have to agree with the others that the proportions are a little off as far as the od of the tire compaired the arch in the fender BUT that thing is BAD ASS! I'd really love to see it with 1 or 2 psi in the tires, I kinda wanna see what kinda sidewall flex they have.... :rolleyes:
+ at the culmination of everything we are def gunna need a video! I had a 01 quad cab 4x4 cummins 2500 -w- a NV4500 and no cat no muffler 4" down pipe to a 5' section of 5" exhaust, loud! what a beautiful sound....
The post on that is some days old, however unanswered: The push rods have been bend for some pistons and some valves got in contact, the weakest part surrenders, here the push rods.
If I would buy such an engine, the block witheverything inside is to be considered scrap, some pereferie parts might be useable. So scrap metal value.
Wolf
The engine is good for core only .... but core goes for almost a grand. So even the engine dead it's still worth something. The turbo and the Bosh pump are still good but since going with a P pump .... this worth nothing for me. I'm currently trading my old dead engine for my new engine install .Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf.dose
Sorry but i had to tell what i found ...
I got my new engine this morning ..... '00 6BTAA 230 hp from a rear engine school bus.
The engine have all that already mounted .....
160A alternator
2 pistons air compressors
SAE #3 bellhousing and the starter
4" downpipe ( real 4" no reducer )
Hydro pump ( a real one ! )
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...newengine1.JPG
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...newengine2.JPG
And some new mods to be done ....
Need 1" of body lift ( cab only )
Need to have the front diff move forward 1"
4 wheels air bags ( 3" extra lift )
Ram assist
Swap Spicer 3053A
Np-205 Dodge Divorced
EGT gauge.
Then aiming for 1000 pounds of torque.
But to do that i need to reworked the engine bay. With my 3" of extra lift i will be able to lower the complete powertrain 3½". Add the 1" of cab lift and the SAE bellhousing and the 3053A will now fit in there without body cutting. I need to relocate the rear shackle for better angle and add also longer ones to compensated for the extra lift.
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...thmorelift.JPG
So i'm looking for a Spicer 3053A in top shape condition , a Dodge divorced tcase and the stock Deuce driveshaft between them. I may have a deal if you ever want something automatic ..... my complete tranny/tcase twin stick with all the fitting and the aluminium cooler .... for trade in anyone interested.
Nice, nice! I wonder if anyone has ever done a dry sump with one of those, you could control L/O pis better, keep it cooler, and possibly have better filtering options? Would you consider that? Then you might not have to worry about moving the axle, "cab only":eek: body lift. I bet some of the diesel powered Bonivelle vehicles used dry sump... Or you could go with a Marine pan which is about 3" shallower and use a double of triple remote filter mount to make up for the pan loss... Acutally there seems to be a little chatter about this remote sump option on various sites...
Hey Kamikaze,
I mean that for the block it is for not shure that the chrankshaft bearings also have a dammage, You have to find it out. So, as I said, the phereferie is usable. If the crankshaft bearings and / or their mounts are dammaged, the block is scap. We experianced that sevearl times, a smoth turning engine (by hand) with some valve damage and we found out that all crankshaft bearings are broken out of the block with a slightly bend crankshaft.
That is behind my statement.
Anyway, I like to follow your struggle to built YOUR perfect M715!
Wolf
Look like a nice option !! the remote filter doesn't cost too much but the marine oil pan can be OUCH !!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by coreyallan
Will try to have answers on the price !!
I believe I may have two pans, let me check. Shouldnt coast that much, they came off some high hour take outs.... Or you can take a look here, couldn't find an address but thier up un Canada.
http://www.rebuiltdiesels.com/html/cummins/index.cfm I just saw a used one in the states for like $130 bucks or so...
I checked and we dont have any of those pans left, I think they went to the scrap heep... We use to have this scrap metal guy come by every once in a while with this busted up jalopy of a f350 that would barely run, he'd get out and say ?Oyauboysgotanyscraptody", he didnt have any teeth so it was hard to understand him but we knew what he wanted. He was a nice guy though so we use to give him all our scrap aluminum and steel... How are you makin out? Have you decided anything?
The complete powertrain is out of the truck. I had to remove all sheet metal because it was pulled by a farm tractor. It was easy to removed everything and no rust was found anywhere. I clean the new engine and took measurements. With 1" cab lift ... i will need a true 3" more to get the new industrial engine on the right spot. I found a way to install my 4" snorkel ..... on the right fender into the cab with a 90 degree silicone coupler then right on the engine bay where the heater use to be. I will lost most of the compartment on the right but it's already not in use ..... so that's not a big deal losing it to have a true snorkel.
Sounds good, I cant wait to see the results. I take it you dont care that the body lines are gunna b a little off?
You may want to pull the numbers off of the hydraulic pumpthat is in the rear of the air compressor. What you may be interested in is the flow rate and psi setting. Depending on the psi and what steering gear box you have, you can blow seals in a hurry. Ive seen some of those zf pumps on Cummins in the upper 3000 at 15+gpm. The pumps can be set at different psi internally. my 0.02
The air compressors are neat and useful. They just take some basic maintenance but the ideal OBA setup. Good score!
For now i have found nothing on the casting ... so i really dont know what are the specs.Quote:
Originally Posted by tndonor
worked on the 205 this weekend. Complete rebuilt. Just need to grind the shift rail for the twin stick operation and fit the Np200 drum brake. I have to get a 32 splines rear flange and modify it to use a 1480 flange from a 5T truck.
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...ivorced205.jpg
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...rockwellhd.jpg
I should get the tranny in 2 weeks, so the first test fit should be by the end of the month .... the engine is ready to be painted.
sweet...what is that 205 out of?
'70 Dodge divorced ....Quote:
Originally Posted by Warhammer
205 looks great! Who did you get your rebuild kit from?
..... Transparts warehouse in CA.Quote:
Originally Posted by CE_TX
http://stores.ebay.com/TRANSPARTS-AT...34Q2ec0Q2em322
I have ordered my kit for the 93 dodge diesel np205 two years ago but everything that i needed was in the box ..... i even have extra gaskets and bearings. It was a very complete kit .
almost ready to work ... just need to order my front 1410 input yoke and have the rear flange machined and ............ wait for the tranny next week :D
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...ced205-200.jpg
Quick update before and after
Before on 42" with SOA
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/php...drivetech1.JPG
Now on 49" with the SOA and a 1¼" cab lift.
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kamikaze/m715andme.jpg
Yes i know that the engine is not there but it wont make much difference. Also have to install the airbags to get a smoother ride ( 2" extra lift )
That's just awsome looking
Looking good. Guess I am gonna need to replace the "puny" 42s I have now.
This build is definitely one of the best ones on this site IMO. Keep it up and the pics coming.
Hey THANKS for your comments.
This morning i went to PA to get some parts that were missing for the puzzle ...
The 3053A tranny with the SAE adapter in case i needed it.
Also get the complete clutch to move the truck before fitting a real one in there.
A set of air tank with the hardware
Air horn
another 14.00 XL for spare.
Will update with better pics tomorrow
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...oodies2010.jpg
BTW ... some pics of the Canadien War Museum. I was very impressed that they even had a jet plane in the garage.
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...warmuseum1.jpg
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...warmuseum2.jpg
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...warmuseum3.jpg
And while i was at the suplus ... i took a picture of my wife beside a bobbed deuce ..... i may have one someday !!!
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kamikaze/kublos4.jpg
All parts cleaned and painted.
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kamikaze/parts1.jpg
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kamikaze/parts2.jpg
I will ask also in the appropriate section about that but maybe can help me on this one. At the back under the output shaft of the tranny , there's something with treads --) can someone help me to identify the part and if need to plug something in there or not. Thanks and sorry for the crappy picture
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kamikaze/parts3.jpg
Air tanks installed and a first try on the trailer .......
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...kinstalled.jpg
http://www.rockcrawlerquebec.com/kam...raileronxl.jpg
You do nice (and fast) work!
The air tank idea is exactly what I had in mind for my 715 when I get around to the onboard air system. Glad to see the tanks fit well.
I used the Deuce hardware and shortened about 8" then with 1" spacer i just bolt it through the bed using 3/8 boltsQuote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
now i'm working on adapting the tranny to the engine and mating them to the tcase using what i have in stock ...
But i will need an SAE adapter from Phoenix Casting ... or find an Sae#2 to #3
A freightliner FL70 flywheel and a 14" clutch
Also i hope to have respond from a guy at JP Magazine ( Pete Trasborg ) about the flange on the 205 that will allow stock 1500 series driveshaft to be bolted. ( will need two of them )
This is the flange needed ---)
http://image.jpmagazine.com/f/914058..._five_05_z.jpg
I just ordered a flange from http://www.redbarncustoms.net to bolt a stock deuce driveshaft to a NP205, they can do custom work so you might want to give them a try. They specialize in rockwell stuff.
It's exactly what i was looking for ....... will give them a call next week !! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by spgirard30
For the engine adapter .... $550 from Phoenix !!! WOW that's not cheap ... so i decide to make my own. One call to a friend ... took all measurements ( phoenix send me the drawing of the adapter 26-0368 ) and have 2 metal rings laser cut. I order them with .250 pilot holes to be sure that they will be the good size before tapping it with 3/8x24 bolts. So i will have a better ( build not bought ) adapter and it will cost under $200 with all the hardwares. Since the flywheel will cost around $1k .... that $350 rebate for the adapter will be appreciate. The only drawback is that i will have .250" of setback instead of .130" because 1/8 of metal bolting the tranny around the bellhousing make me asking question if it will be strong enough ... so when in doubt make it stronger .... so this is why the increase to .250 thickness.
I missed what your plans are, sorry. Would a deuce flywheel fit your needs? I have some extra. Also, the trans to motor on a deuce has an adapting plate(to go to a bigger circumference), I bet I have one of those too if it would help. I second redbarncustoms, good guys there.
Your build is great, I am starting mine with a Cummins and a Fuller 6spd from a Ford F800.
Does your 14.00 XL's source have any more tires?. I plan on running the same tire.
Yes they have more and sometime they received new never mounted 14.00 XL
Call Ken from Kublos Surplus at (570) 663-2805 It's a great guy and his prices are real good.
http://www.kublossurplus.com/
Thanks for the offer but i have the adapter you are talking about but the have an odd bolt pattern on the engine side.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyrobb
I order mine today .... laser cut to my specification.
Let me check for the flywheel ... i'll take mesurement this weekend about the size and teeths
Thanks for the tire info.