that is what a roto-broach is. they break, but that is just part of it. try the pilot hole and go slow. i use them every so often, and they break, but going slow and steady helps
Ryan
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that is what a roto-broach is. they break, but that is just part of it. try the pilot hole and go slow. i use them every so often, and they break, but going slow and steady helps
Ryan
ok, thanks! ill definetly check that out.
Wow, okay I finally just read the whole thread. It took me a couple of different sittings to get through it all. It is truly multi-topic and never-ending. :)
One thing I didn't see though is how you ended up getting the turbo to clear the fenders... you said you were having trouble getting it to clear and then the next thing I saw was pics of it assembled. (Unless I missed something...) How'd you do it? (Looks like there's plenty of room for everything else. I like it very very much...)
yes, this is quite a long thread.
to clear the fenders i just grabbed a body hammer and went to town. then desided that wasnt working, so i used the sledge hammer, and that did the trick then tryed my best to get it all looking good. it wasnt anything spetacular, but it works, its a good thing im not on the passenger side because their is no room for exhaust. its right under your feet. but yea
the exhaust is finally done. ill try to take pics
gm 92-94 nv4500 1st gear is5.61 t 98 is 6.40
So, what's the latest, Foodstamp?!
Well its been a while. But as of now my power steering, power breaks work. I finished those up last night. I need to get leafspring bushings, taper ball ends, wiring, and little things like that an it can go down the road. I need rims an tires bad. I also have a question, while doin my breaks I noticed that the shoes are bad, one actually has no lining on it. What shoes match up to this truck? Or do I need to take them to get lined? And I made a DISCOVERY! I don't know if some one found this or not, but the stock filler necks onthis thing are flippin expencive right? Well we jus happen to get a couple johndeer combines, I think they were 8820? Not sure but they jus so happen to use a filler neck near Identicle to the ones n thes trucks. I'm going to go get one an take some pics for you guys. Oh best part is john deere still sells parts for thos combines so we can buy new filler necks, and their probably about 30 I would think
I have 4 new brake shoes if you need...
Yeah, how much would you like for them? Ill need to do all of them Lol but 4 would defenetly help
so here is my next question. i now am going to try and tackle wiring. where should i start? should i try a haywire kit and try to wire it to my original light switch? i know theirs a bunch of threads about wiring, but im not sure if theirs any ones out their with a 6.2
Here is what I did:
Get an 8 circuit or 12 circut wiring harness that they sell for just about every street rodder and use that. The 6.2 that is in Grantshire's truck is wired with an 8 circuit one that has everything in it including the signal flasher, and a relay which I used to run the lift pump.
The only electricity the 6.2 requires is the fuel cutoff, idle speed increase when cold, and the glow plugs. Of course the alternator also gets a feed. The rest of the circuits you'll use for the lights, wipers, heater if you have one, and any other accessories.
I picked up the harness from e-bay and its made by Northwest Autowire. A whole lot cheaper than a Painless and just as quality in my opinion.
ok thanks ill go get one of those. i ended up going over my original wiring, and besides the ugly wrapping and dirty ends, the wires seem to be just fine, so i looked them over, cleaned them up, and wrapped them up. i went and got new head lights, wagner 6114 i think it was. and new 12 volt black out bulbs. hooked it up and my black out lights work but my head lights dont, theirs no power coming from my switch, so im going to look at that today if i dont have to work. ill get a 12 wire circut so i can make my own harness for my 6.2 and acessories like the kc lights and misc parts. those black out lights look pretty cool light up.
Randy: great advice and a great price. I'm going to use that to rewire my truck.
Foodstamp: did you ever find a number for the fill hose? I'm planning to go to John Deere to get some slipplate paint and cornhead grease and I would love to get a new fill tube as well. Thanks!!
i did not find a number sorry but its a filler neck for a 8820 john deere combine. the guy at the counter should be able to find it in the data base
any luck on the filler neck? i had a picture of it and my camera was just stollen. i had the jeep parked in my shop and i guess we have some un trustworthy workers now, and they took it right out of my cab. well i do have an up date. i just so happened to find a axle for my jeep. im workin on a front still but i picked up a spicer s110 square tube axle that you would find under a F650 or 550. and has a really big 8 lug pattern and probably the biggest disk breaks ive ever seen. with 4:88 ratio too
weve had people that come up in the day light and pilfer thru cars at work while were there and steal all kinds of things. just a couple days ago a car stereo was stolen out of one. Its time for a little sniper action and with my 300 winmag, I can give them a sporting chance to drop everything and run then drop em as they think they got away. I cant stand a thief or a lier. Id be setting about 15 ft over thier heads and they wouldnt even know it till it was to late.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
Foodstamp: Chris sent me a cad drawing of the filler neck, and while there's a 90' angle and the openings match, it won't fit without some work. Without one in hand, what exactly would be needed, I don't know, but I'm going to use a real one instead of fabbing one up- gonz
I modified with the second restauration (2002 - 2004) my M715 to a 6.2 l Detroit Diesel from a Hanomag D141L1 engine, which I put in 1981/82. The harness is all new by myself and it works. Except the cold idle, but you do not need it, even with 22° C minus (It worked after restauration, however since avbout three years it stopped its service). It is the switch on the right side of the engine( and I do not want to change it for see above).
I drove the truck since then some 17000 miles and still work on inprovements. But these are of the miner importance (Nice to have but not needed). And I'm still looking for some noises. If you found one, the next covered comes up. But for the legal limitations of a truck to 80 kph the truck runs great, fuel consumption after 460 engine hours is o.k., even with a laden M101A1 trailer at about 85 to 90 kph(over the legal imit, however accepted). Without trailer arround 18 l/100km, with trailer 20 to 22 l/100 km. And I can race out any modern truck with the mandentory speed limiter if I like to (and risk it, Police is almost anywere you do not like them to be).
Weak point are the Chevy (AC Delco/Delphi) alternators (I use the CUCV M1009 electric system for the 12 and 24 V supply), however, I can get them repaired here very cheep at a friend of mine, only always have to change the regulator and the Diode plate. Inconvinient on a long trip to carry always at least one altinator as a spare.
For I did not find out how to place pics the easy way here, you have to look for them at steel soldier.
Wolf
yeah its horrible that some people decide to make the decision to take peoples belongings, but it happens. i did notice that these 6.2l's will eat alternators. i had a cheap autozone reman alt last maybe 2 hours of run time. i bought a better quality alt and it work great. the kaiser is wired up, i used a chevy cercit and fuse center, it worked out awesome. the only wiring issue i need to work on is turn signals. i recently bought some matrix racing seats and mounted them. ive actully been driving it short distances lately.
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bed liner didnt work like i was hoping, but at least its one color now
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not the cleanest motor, but im still working on hiding the wires
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ford tarus electric fan, im still debating using this
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i couldnt pass the deal on these seats so i put them in. cant beat free.
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How are you going to rig up a CDR valve? I see you have the oil vent open is why the question.
for the CDR i have 2 plans, and that is hook it up how it would be originally for a 6.5 i have the valve cover and most of the parts except how to rig a hose infront of my turbo. or ive heard of people just running a tube down twards the oil pan which i have thought about doing as well.
A road draft "Slobber tube" is something that works, but won't pass any inspection these days. Cummins used that for years. All the M35 multifuels use it as well.
oh dang, ok well thanks for letting me know about that ha, i would like to get it inspected soon, ill try to get a cdr set up going.
Blocking a lot of ambient air flow with that fan shroud.... I assume that was a puller fan that you're re-purposing as a pusher?
yes the fan is just temporary, i plan on mounting a oil cooler and power steering cooler on the front where the fan is now and get a new fan to mount on the back side like it should be, but for now atleast it will run and stay cool. it works well right now, but i dont even like the way it looks with the fan on the out side.
i do have a question, and im wondering if theirs dimentions for the front brush guard online? i have some 1 inch pipe and a small bender so i might try and make one soon
the other day i was looking here and found a thread on brakes and what shoes were used or who relined shoes. i should of saved the link to add to. but today i went to autozone, and their computers were down, i still had no idea which shoe to buy and autozone here is helpless with out their computers, so i went to napa and asked for an 80's chevy 1ton dually shoe and they are almost the same besides the springs and top portion where the original shoes are flat the new dually shoes have a half circle cut in them for the anchor pin. i have the napa part number which is TS-451 and they wanted $35 with a $20 core and 1 year warranty. with that part number i went to autozone because im cheap, gave them the part number and walked out the door with 4 shoes part number 451. duralast breaks lifetime warranty for $29.42
Got to love a thread that started in 2007 and is still going strong in 2011. Keep it up foodstamp!
I can add that to the other thread on the brake shoes...sounds like a good idea!
it stops really well now. with the shoes, e350 wheel cyl, and chevy hydroboost it stops better than my ZJ with 4 wheel disk. i do have a question, this is the only truck ive worked with that has a spedo cable. are the cables basicaly universal? i have the np205 with original spedo guage. would anyone have any tips? i dont have the original 715 cable
Just buy a CJ-7 cable and it will fit just about perfect.
This has been posted by another member:
a speedo cable from a '77 - '79 CJ-5 will work. I was in a pinch and used the one off my CJ-5. Order the longer cable.
thank you! ill look that up and try and get one soon. one step closer. i need a window and heater core, then hopefully i can go to brake and light inspections.
well ive done a little more work to it. my biggest question is do i have to get a custom cut window for this truck, or is their another vehicle that uses the same window? what im getting to is a local window cutter quoted me for $170 to put the windshield in.
fathers day i think ill be taking this to the rubicon.
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looking good foodstamp nice work
Nice looking truck. I have an extra windshield not far up the road from you. If you are interested let me know.
Tom
I was on the Rubicon last weekend. You will not get far as it is still covered in deep snow. Ellis Creek was as far as anyone had gone. We made it just past the slabs from Loon Lake. We had a good time - just a lot different from the rock climbing that you are usually dealing with.
Tom
SO, I've read through several dozen pages and just saw that the booster was installed and no descriptions..
HOW hard/easy was it? I've got two of them and even the stock '78 gm 3/4ton one still.
Did you have to get a special length pressur/return lines?
What about prop valve? GM also or aftermarket?
Great build. E
If you are looking for a windshield, it is not shared by another vehicle but it is flat and can be easily cut from safety glass by a glass shop. Most places have the rubber seal as well...usually the price has been given as under $100 for the set.
Either make a cardboard template of the windshield opening or remove the frame and take it in...both methods work.