My second M715 build. What was I thinking?

At the risk of being made fun of, that is a big puller ya got there...


I took the truck for a test drive this afternoon. It shifted through all the gears. I made it up to (I'm guessing) around 45 MPH and the engine was wound out. That's when I figured out the transfer case is in low range. I tried to take off in 5th gear once I knew I was in low range. I stalled the engine and could not restart it.

I walked home because it was only a short distance. I went back a bit later with my wife and some jumper cables. I tried to start it before I attached the cables because I thought maybe the engine cool off period would allow it to start and it did. I think the direct drive starter isn't going to work on my turbo 6.2. I will start looking for the wide mouth gear drive starter.

I adjusted the levers when I got home so the transfer case actually shifts from 2wd to 4wd and from hi to low properly now. I will take it for another drive after dinner to see how it goes now.

I still don't have the front drive shaft installed.

It is supposed to rain here tonight so my original plan to paint the truck this evening got postponed.

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

I have never rebuilt a nv4500, but several 4speeds. I do know some who have rebuilt the 4500 and made their own pullers. A little bit of ingenuity and anything can be done.


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I've made some tools in the past but I think I can buy them for the rebuild. I'll just add that into the cost of the rebuild. It'll still be cheaper than paying someone else to do the work for me.

I think this transmission will probably need a full rebuild before summer is over based on my test drive after dinner. It make a lot of noise while I'm idling. I can't hear it over the engine while I'm driving so I don't know what kind of noise it makes while I'm in motion. It shifts fine though. Even 1st gear which looks like the syncro is worn out.

I'm not upset about needing to rebuild it but would have liked to get a used transmission that was ready to use instead of all the fiddling I've had to do to get this one usable.

I need to get an exhaust installed soon now.

One other problem I have now is I don't seem to have a place to hook up a speedometer.

It was also very warm here today and I still don't have a cooling fan installed. The gauge got up to 200 on my first test drive but after dinner it never went past about 180. Must be the difference in speed. I was able to do 55 easily this time. (I used an app on my phone to see my speed this time.)

I didn't plan to do anything on the truck today.

I went to move it this evening and it wouldn't start (again). What i realized was that even my glow plug relay wasn't "clicking" normally. It turned out that all my battery terminals were corroding. I cleaned them all inside and out with a battery brush and the truck started right up.

I didn't have a problem with battery terminal corrosion on my last truck but I didn't have dual batteries either. I'm not sure there's a correlation but don't know what else to think at the moment.

Anyone else reading this ever have problems with battery terminal corrosion in a short time span? These batteries have only been tied together since late January or early February. Does having two batteries in parallel in a truck increase the corrosion rate?

I have multi dual battery vehicles and have not had an increase in corrosion formation.

Were they new terminal ends or used ones you had sitting around?

My experience is the same. No problem with multiple batteries. Bad cables or loose/dirty terminal connections are the typical cause of corrosion problems.

And I always use the military battery terminals to get the most reliable connection and it I can remove the cable without removing the terminal from the battery post.

I also switched to using AGM batteries. They don't leak acid and destroy the battery box.

All the connections on the battery were new and clean when installed in January. I bought terminal posts for the batteries to make it easier to hook the batteries in parallel. I have a 2/0 cable between the positives but the negatives are individually grounder to the engine block with a number 2 wire each. I also have a number 2 from one negative terminal to the body. One other thing I think that's different from this truck to my last is I don't have the braided ground from the engine block to the frame. I should probably do that soon.

So what have others done about the lack of mechanical speedometer connection? I can use my phone for now but I'd like a long term solution to the speed and odometer. Not that it really matters but it would be nice to be able to calculate my miles per gallon.

Wait...I thought you were using the stock transfer case-can't you use the stock location in the transfer case?


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Doh. For some reason I had it in my head the speedometer came out of the transmission.


http://blog.gieselman.com/image.axd?...sferCase05.jpg

According to this picture it is in the t-case.

Thanks. I guess I didn't look close enough at my case.

No probs. Yeah most 4x4 vehicles have the cable coming from the t-case because low range will affect speed.


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I found the speedometer connection on the transfer case today and connected the cable. I thought I'd take the truck for a test drive in to work to gauge time and reliability.

If it seemed reliable I was planning to drop it off at the muffler shop near work in the morning and have a co-worker pick me up.


The first thing I noticed was the speedometer went all the way around to the stop and stayed there while I was moving forward.

The second thing I noticed when I got to the end of my driveway was I had no brakes. I live on a hill and my driveway is a downward slope to the road. The speed limit is 55 on the road and there was a car coming.

I had a similar problem when I first installed this master cylinder on this truck. I pulled it apart and put it back together and it seemed fine after that. This time it is getting replaced. I can't have that happen again. Luckily I didn't have a problem on the road.

So back to my speedometer. Has anyone else reading this had a speedometer go all the way around as soon as you moved forward? I'm wondering if maybe a spring is missing on the needle that holds tension so that doesn't happen?

I stopped after work and bought a new master cylinder. I also bought some Ford wheel cylinders just in case.

I got home, bled and installed the new master cylinder. It isn't the problem.

I did some searching about hard pedal but little stopping ability. Many posts say it is likely a problem with the brake booster. I don't think I have a problem with my hydro boost but decided to take the master off the booster and see what happened. I had easy pedal and could see the push rod extending as it should.

I then moved on to a front wheel. I took off the front left wheel and drum. I could watch the brake shoes extend as I pushed the pedal but didn't think they were moving very far. I decided I'd adjust the shoes out with the adjuster. I turned the shoes out quite far and was still able to get the drum on easily.

I decided to test the brakes again after adjusting it out further. I pressed the brake pedal and wedged a steel pipe between the pedal and the seat to hold pressure on the brakes. The pedal had quite a lot of pressure on it but I could still turn the drum by hand. With the amount of pedal pressure that wheel should have been locked up even with the truck going 50 MPH.

So I think I need to replace the rubber line from the frame to the cylinder. It doesn't look bad but it isn't new either. Also I need some new shoes.

I am planning on replacing everything at this point. I will do the Chevy brake shoe modification and the Ford cylinders too. The steel lines look pretty new and the previous owner did say he replaced a bunch of brake parts.

I'm not taking any chances. My last truck stopped as well as my Duramax and I want this one to do the same.

After doing some searching I found a part number for the rear rubber brake hose but am not finding a civilian part number for the front brake lines. Does anyone know of a civilian part number that will work for the front rubber hoses?

I stopped by NAPA on my way home. I was going to buy some new shoes. I asked for TS60 brake shoes. It isn't a valid part number anymore. I think it has been replaced with TS320 but am not sure. I didn't buy them because they were almost $80 per axle.

I will be calling a local shop tomorrow that can reline my existing shoes. The front shoes are about down to the rivets. The rear shoes have lots of material left but will get replaced (or relined) anyway.

As much as I hate to admit it I think my original brake problem is really as simple as very poor adjustment of the brake shoes. I think the pads were just worn down far enough that it was time to adjust them. I adjusted them all out quite a bit this evening and could lock up the tires easily afterwards.

I'm still going through them though. I'll just feel better about it knowing everything is new.

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Originally Posted by jeeper

I stopped by NAPA on my way home. I was going to buy some new shoes. I asked for TS60 brake shoes. It isn't a valid part number anymore. I think it has been replaced with TS320 but am not sure. I didn't buy them because they were almost $80 per axle.



I will be calling a local shop tomorrow that can reline my existing shoes. The front shoes are about down to the rivets. The rear shoes have lots of material left but will get replaced (or relined) anyway.



As much as I hate to admit it I think my original brake problem is really as simple as very poor adjustment of the brake shoes. I think the pads were just worn down far enough that it was time to adjust them. I adjusted them all out quite a bit this evening and could lock up the tires easily afterwards.



I'm still going through them though. I'll just feel better about it knowing everything is new.

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It's a good time to go through them. I don't think there are any civilian lines for the front-best case you measure out the lines and make a comparison.

I always check brake adjustment every other oil change-if not every change. I also keep a little notebook that has a list of all the minor repairs, like oil changes and tire rotations, and all fuel stops and mileage.


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I didn't suspect brake adjustment because I expected it to be a gradual decline in brakes not a sudden failure. Lesson learned (I hope).

I drove the truck to work today and dropped it off at the muffler shop. Since they don't have a drop box I called them when they opened to let them know what I wanted and actually talked to the guy who gave me the quote a few weeks ago. He remembered the truck and assured me it would be done by the time I was done working.

When I got to the shop after work the truck was up on the lift but nothing had been done to it. The tech who was going to do the work called me back and asked me who built the truck. I smiled and told him Kaiser did in 1968. He scowled and waved at the bottom of the truck and said "No, who did this?" He was waving at the transfer case area.

I could see in his eyes he didn't want to install an exhaust for me...I asked what the problem was. He said "I can't fit a 3" exhaust through there!" (I didn't tell him this but I have a piece of 3" exhaust pipe at home and verified that it will indeed fit.) I asked him "what needs to be done to make it fit?" to which he replied "lose the transfer case." I then asked him "Will a two and a half inch exhaust pipe fit through there?" Again he scowled but agreed it would. I told him to install that then and went back to the waiting room.

About fifteen minutes later the manager comes and tells me he couldn't do the work for the originally quoted price. I politely informed him I wouldn't pay more than he quoted. He then told me he couldn't do the work. I said okay and went outside to wait for my truck to be pulled out of the building. The tech frogged around for another fifteen minutes and then drove right by me and pulled my truck around to the back of the building and parked it after squealing the tires. I calmly told him that was an a**hole move. I almost want to sign up for social media just to badmouth that muffler shop.

I guess I need to find another option for my exhaust.

After I left the muffler shop I went to Autozone because it was close. I looked at their exhaust parts but was disappointed to see they don't have any 3" bend pieces. A piece of 3" straight at that store was about $28 for an 18" piece. But that price by itself is useless to me because I need to have bends which they didn't carry.

I also looked at the wiper blades there. They don't have anything that will work without some modification.

I forgot to call about getting my brakes relined. I hope to remember on Monday.

It's supposed to be nice here this weekend. I hope to get a coat of paint on the truck.

I put a coat of paint on the truck today.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psekmfpe2t.jpg

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psmqep5zqc.jpg

I'm starting to think about painting the wheels different. I'm wondering how it would look with the center black and the beadlock ring Marine Corps green to match the truck.

Oh man... That crap at the muffler shop would of chapped my ass.

Been through similar situations over the years with various oddball projects. Now if a shop owner or "tech" starts complaining I just tell them to forget it and go somewhere else or figure out how to do it myself. Once the in starts then their heart isn't in it and I'll get crappy work. And if they're a decent "tech" they'll offer real options instead of complaining.
... I used to go round and round with the local Harley dealer... wants me to leave my bike in the shop for 2 weeks waiting for a $60 fuel line because they don't replace O rings... Kiss my @$$... .... sorry, bad memory rant.

My muffler guy had a time with that same spot too, ended up downsizing pipe. neither one of us were real happy about having to do that. But I didn't want the pipe going down the other side by the fuel line and wiring harness or have the exhaust hanging down.

That cross member probably doesn't really need to be that big... could probably cut a big hole in it and not hurt anything, or maybe cut and then brace it.

When I swap in the 390/T18/NP205 That whole cross member is coming out.

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Originally Posted by Von

That cross member probably doesn't really need to be that big... could probably cut a big hole in it and not hurt anything, or maybe cut and then brace it.
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I don't (and didn't) have that cross member installed. It came out when the automatic went in and never went back in. That tech was complaining about fitting the exhaust between the transfer case and the frame rail. I double checked when I got home and a 3" exhaust pipe fits through there with room to spare.

I'm disappointed I didn't get the exhaust done but I'm looking at it as an opportunity. I'm going to have an exhaust system on this truck and I'm going to do it myself for less anyway. So I'll have more money in my budget to do other things.

So don't make fun of me for this but I'm going to attempt using 3" EMT conduit as my exhaust pipe. We had a 10' piece of pipe at work and the boss said I could have it. What I see right off the bat is exhaust pipe is sized differently than electrical conduit. EMT conduit is sized by the inside diameter and exhaust pipe is sized by the outside diameter.

When I put my calliper on it the I.D. of the exhaust pipe measured about 2.84". The I.D. of the conduit was 3.32". The wall thickness of the exhaust pipe was .1 and the wall thickness of the conduit was .095. By my math the 3" conduit is about 15% larger internally but should be similar weight. (Not that weight is a concern on this truck.)

But before I start on that I need to figure out why my clutch went out on my way home from work today. It started getting hard to shift while I was still on the outskirts of town but became apparent when I got to the first stop sign outside of town that the clutch was not disengaging the transmission. I was able to get started again and was lucky to only have two more stop signs before home. I made it without grinding at all so I don't think I did any tranny damage.

The clutch looks like an easy fix. It looks like the brand new NAPA replacement clutch line ruptured. When I pulled the master cylinder off along with the line I was able to push the rod in by hand and watch fluid come out of the line where the plastic line is joined to the braided stainless section of line. I guess I'll see how good NAPA is on their warranty...at least I don't think I need to pull the transmission again...

I got the clutch line replaced today. And I took a picture that I forgot to get when I got the decals installed.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psmn13nfrd.jpg

What I'm not sure about is the proper placement of the bridge decal for a USMC truck. I've seen several pictures of Army trucks with the decal on the upper front side of the door. I'm wondering if the USMC location is the same?

Looks good Paul

Nice lookin truck!

Thanks George and Von.

This morning I finished my exhaust in conduit. It is piped from the down pipe to the tail pipe with no muffler. It isn't loud in the cab at idle but it is still somewhat loud when I rev the engine. I haven't taken it for a ride yet. I plan to after lunch.

I am chasing oil leaks still. I think I have one fixed and it seems another leak develops. The bad part about it is I believe I am being careful about applying gaskets and sealant and such but I still seem to have problems. I am sure it is operator error though at this point.

This morning while I was welding on my exhaust I noticed a wire I ran for my electric lift pump was pinched between the engine block and the bell housing. That must have happened when I had the transmission out last time. I don't use the lift pump much except when I run out of fuel or change the filter. It's obvious to me now that I don't really have the attention to detail I thought I did...I guess it's official I will only ever be a legend in my own mind.

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Originally Posted by jeeper

...I guess it's official I will only ever be a legend in my own mind.

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LOL, a lot of that going around. I usually try to keep mum about it though.

My ninth grade art teacher said that an artist is someone who knows how to hide their mistakes.
At least I think that's what she said... I was always distracted by her chest. Magnificent... 36 years later and I'm still impressed..

This is getting old...

Yesterday my son took my truck to school. I didn't even know he did until today. When I got home from work yesterday it was parked right where I left it on Sunday. I took it in the evening to take my dog to the vet for her appointment. Everything was cool up to this point. On my way home from the vet the truck stalled at the first stop sign but fired right back up and made it home (about 10 miles) with no problem. I considered it a fluke that it stalled.

So this morning I was planning to take the truck to work. I got in and started it up. It didn't start as easy as normal (it cranked over a little slow). I took off anyway. I made it about a tenth of a mile down the road and the engine raced then stalled out. When I tried to restart it it would barely turn over.

I walked home and got my son to help me tow it home. That's when I found out he had driven it yesterday. (No I'm not upset that he drove it, just surprised.) He commented that he didn't think it was running that great by the time he got home. I didn't notice it not running good when I took the dog to the vet.

While I was being towed I decided to put it in gear and ease off the clutch to see if it would start. It did start but stalled out pretty quickly. I tried again but this time gave it some gas and it stayed running. We unhooked the strap and I ended up driving it back home and parked it.

So when I got home from work I tried to start it again. It barely turns over. I check the batteries and the terminals are corroded AGAIN. The batteries are also mostly discharged. At this point I'm guessing I have a parasitic load. I have a VOM that reads DC amps to 10 amps. I tried finding a load but do not read any load with the ignition switch off.

I think I have two separate problems. I think I have an electrical gremlin and a leak in the fuel line.

How's the alternator, and the cables? Is this happening to both terminals on both batteries?

My guess is a frequent overcharge undercharge situation if both terminals are corroding. But it could also be a ground or power cable has failed internally and its "back feeding"(for lack of better term) through the batteries.

I like to slice the outer shell on the cables(parallel) and peel it apart to check for corrosion or breaks-small incisions about 2" long can then be re-taped if no fault is found.


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The racing before it dies is a classic out of fuel symptom for the mechanical IP diesels. Does it have fuel?

I have found with my several 6.2 trucks on the road that a good set of batteries will turn the engine over enough in 10-12 second burst with a few minutes between to reprime the IP. A good set of batteries will not have enough oomph to reprime a second time a few minutes later. I have learned this lesson the hard way.

The last time I ran the M715 out of fuel, I thought I had enough in the tank to get to the fuel station. It started missing at highway speeds but idled fine. However, a stock M715 fuel tank needs 1 inch of fuel in the tank to let it get picked up. Starting and stopping slops the fuel away from the pick up tube. As will up or down slopes of even a few degrees. Mine died at a stop sign on an incline. I was able to refire after a few minutes of cranking. Then it died driving on the down hill run to the fuel station less than 4 minutes later. I was able to coast into the station and top it off. But I didn't have enough battery to re prime. Colton came in RED and pulled me home. I was able to pop the clutch and get it primed and running during that pull home. The belts were complaining a lot for about 10 minutes afterwards though trying to get the batteries back up.

If you have the stock military alternator, it could be the cause of your dead batteries. The rectifier will go back and it will draw your batteries down. The best way to tell is to check for a spark when connecting the battery cables to the battery terminals. If you have all the loads turned off and the connection arcs (listen and look) then the most likely cause is a bad alternator.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I figured out my fuel problem.

The first thing I did was check the fuel filter. I unscrewed the drain plug and nothing came out. After closer inspection I found I was missing a hose clamp on the line from the filter base to my electric lift pump. When I tugged on it I pulled it almost off the barb fitting. I found a clamp and installed it and since I had already charged the batteries it fired right up like a new truck.

I haven't looked into the battery issue yet. One thing I am planning to do is run a wire between the negative terminals of the batteries. I currently have each battery negative grounded to the engine. One battery negative also goes to the body. I think I may need to install a wire between the frame and the body and between the frame and the engine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jeeper

I figured out my fuel problem.

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Or maybe not...

If my first truck would have had this many problems it may have been my last.

I took it for a test drive earlier this week after I thought I had my fuel problem resolved. While I was testing it out I got up to about 50 MPH and started feeling a vibration. Then all of a sudden my drive shaft let loose. It banged up the bottom of my truck with a couple thuds then flew out from under the truck across the oncoming lane and into the weeds. Luckily there was no one around when that happened. That could have been much worse.

Since I still didn't have the front drive shaft installed yet I needed a tow home. I went back and found the drive shaft in the weeds and picked it up. The next day I dropped it off at the company that made my jack shaft. I picked up the new drive shaft today. They didn't re-use any of the original.

I got it home and decided I'd install the front drive shaft and take it for a quick spin to see if I had any vibration without the read drive shaft installed.

I started the truck and shifted it into 4wd and started backing up. The engine started sputtering again and stalled out as if I'm out of fuel. The tank is almost full. I'm sure there is at least 20 and probably closer to 24 gallons in the tank.

I spent most of this evening trying to figure out why it's stalling.

So my starter is wired to a momentary toggle switch I mounted in the dash. It's a SPDT on off on switch. The up position is the starter and the down position is my electric lift pump.

When my truck stalled I immediately activated the electric lift pump to try and prime the line. I can hear a difference in the pump when it's working hard or when it's not. It sounded like it was working hard. The truck would not re-start on its own. I drained the batteries trying and I needed to drag it back to its parking spot and connect a charger. I have a 200 amp jumper charger and the batteries were taking about 40 amps when I connected them.

So while the batteries were re-charging I decided to start back at the tank and check the fuel line all the way to the front of the truck to the mechanical lift pump. I can't find any problem with the line or any hoses. All those parts were new anyway.

Next I disconnected the hose from the hard line after the electric pump. There was so much pressure in the line I got diesel fuel sprayed all over me. That lead me to think maybe the solenoid on the IP isn't working. I can hear it clicking electrically but wasn't sure how to verify it was actually opening. I decided if it was opening I should have fuel in the return line so I disconnected the return line hose from the hard line and had a good stream of fuel coming out.

Seeing that everything seemed like it was good I tried again to start the truck. It started up but it did take a bit of time to have it running smooth. It had a little air in the lines I'm sure. Once it was running smooth I let it idle for about 10 minutes and it seemed to run fine while it did.

So all of this leads me to the conclusion that it has to be Donald Trumps fault that my truck stalled out...




I'm hoping to take a test drive without the rear drive shaft in the morning and then another with the new rear drive shaft after that.

If I have a fuel problem again tomorrow I think it's down to dropping the tank to see if I have a problem in there.

Did you "seal" the tank? I had a friend who did and would occasionally clog the pickup with a leftover bit of sealer....Does it suck so hard that it could collapse a hose?

Are you not running it with a lift pump? Going back in your last post, you said you activated the pump after it stalled.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 67smith

Are you not running it with a lift pump? Going back in your last post, you said you activated the pump after it stalled.

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I have the stock 6.2 manual lift pump as well as an electric pump that I installed near the tank. The electric pump was installed in case I ever did run out of fuel or when I change the fuel filter which is also near the tank. The idea was that if the lines were empty I could fill them before I cranked the engine over to save the batteries.

I didn't line the tank with anything. It was pretty rusty inside when I got it but I cleaned it out pretty well before I put it in use. I do plan on getting a new tank down the road but this one should be fine for a couple years (I hope).

I keep comparing this truck to my first one because that one is what I am familiar with. On my first truck I never had a problem with the tank rusting on the inside once I converted the engine to a diesel. The diesel oil seemed to keep the tank from rusting. At least that was my assumption.

At this point I'm leaning towards a problem with or at the injection pump but mainly because all the lines still had fuel in them when it wouldn't start back up yesterday. Although the first time it did this the filter was empty which doesn't fit well with an IP related problem.

I'm also wondering if I need to turn the fuel up on the IP because of the turbo? I wouldn't think I would have a problem at low RPM but I don't really know much about turbos to be honest.

The ip fuel rate will only effect power output at higher loads. Not idle as you already suggested.

My intank pickup used to clog every few months. This was after I had the tank boiled at a radiator shop. A shot of air into the fuel tank through the line would clear it up. When I put in the 6.2 with a mechanical lift pump it never happened again.

However, I spent more than a month of priming the ip, getting the truck to run, move it 30 feet just to have it die. Then repeat after I changed a fuel line, tightened a clamp, replaced a fitting, etc...

Looking back I should have just put everything between the inside of the tank and the ip inlet new.

Thanks Tim. Everything from the tank to the IP is new. Even the mechanical lift pump.

Good news bad news for me on my test drive. My good news is there is no vibration from the driveline. My bad news is the engine stalled about 1/2 mile from home. I had my son come drag me home again. I tried starting the engine while I was being towed and it fired for a brief second then would not fire over again. The filter is full of fuel so I think the line is as well.

I think I will be swapping out the IP today and see if anything changes. I will probably get one rebuilt soon anyway but I'd like to get this truck back on the road sooner than my budget will allow a rebuild of a pump.

From what I've been reading lots of white smoke at start up, hard starts and stalling are all symptoms of IP failure. I've been noticing all of those symptoms lately.

I didn't get the IP changed out today but I did get started. There was still fuel in the IP when I took the cover off which leads me to believe I have found the problem.

With as much as is involved in swapping the pump I'm a little reluctant to put in an unknown used pump. I really would like to put in a known rebuilt pump. But since I don't have the money right now I will end up installing the other pump I already have that is unknown.

I'm convinced a new IP is in my future. I've tried and tried to get the pump bled but am not getting fuel through the lines to the injectors. After trying each night this week (many times) I got my son to tow me behind my Duramax today. As we pulled out of the driveway I got a nice puff of smoke from the tailpipe but the engine didn't really start and I never saw any smoke or felt any attempt to fire after that.

One thing I did notice though is one of my gauges cycling as if I were turning the ignition on and off repeatedly. My EGT gauge moves the needle all the way up then drops back down on power on. It did that constantly during my starting attempts.

I figured if I did indeed have an electrical problem preventing the IP from allowing fuel maybe I could bypass the truck wiring and power the IP directly from the battery. If it started I could disconnect the jumper wire to stop the engine. So I tried that. It never started. It didn't even sound like it was trying.

After all my failure I finally figured out my IP solenoid isn't opening the flow of fuel.

I took the cover off and wedged a rod inside to mimic the solenoid. I figured if it started I could put it in gear and stall the engine out.

What I wasn't expecting is the engine to run away. I couldn't get the truck into gear easily once that happened. I finally jammed it into reverse and instead of stalling it did a major wheel stand. I pressed as hard as I could on the brakes and it finally stalled out. There was a huge cloud of white (diesel) and black (tires) smoke.

It ran like crap too.

I'm on the hunt for a good pump now.