My second M715 build. What was I thinking?

I got the crossover built today.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psbpth9t6p.jpg

It is tight but there looks to be enough room.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psgtcycbgr.jpg

Then I moved on to the turbo.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7jafbhxn.jpg


The oil tap location pointed out by Tim doesn't allow me to thread a fitting in. There is part of the casting in the way. I will need to install a nipple and an elbow I think.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psfrzzoszg.jpg

I tried fitting my grinder in the opening to cut some of the casting out of the way but wasn't successful.

I would try a small airpowered die grinder with a carbide burr bit! They move a ton of metal fast

Didn't get much done yesterday but today I got the turbo oil supply line ran.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1xim45rk.jpg

I swapped around the oil ports so the gauge comes from the port by the filter and the turbo is fed from the pressure port.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pscyi6hmlg.jpg

Next I'd like to figure out a waste gate.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psv9ilfp9k.jpg

I found a simple solution on the net. Does anyone see a problem doing it like this?

He is using a valve spring to set the tension on the gate.

That seems to be the best way to set up the wastegate. Lots of post on Diesel Page and Diesel Place of very similar spring units.

Do you have a Pyro and boost gauge you plan to install?

Running the DB2, you will have 2 different ways to control the boost. Both needing to be set. I would suggest basically locking the wastegate closed and seeing what kind of boost you get. More than around 10-12 psi or 1100° EGT and you will need to turn your pump down so at full throttle you won't get over those numbers. Obviously, if you don't get that high, turn the pump up some until you do.

Then, you can play with the spring nuts to give you the part throttle and off idle boost you want without the worry of blowing the heads off or melting any pistons.

I do plan to install a boost gauge but didn't plan on installing a pyro meter. I suppose I should do that though. I'm assuming that should actually be installed in the crossover?

Most Pyrometers are suggested to be put as close to the turbo as possible. The Banks manifold has the pyro right where the cross over comes into the manifold and just before the turbo. I don't know where on yours it would be best to put. In the manifold would be better than in the cross over though. There will always be that one cylinder running hot first and you want to know about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jeeper

I do plan to install a boost gauge but didn't plan on installing a pyro meter. I suppose I should do that though. I'm assuming that should actually be installed in the crossover?

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Pre-turbo and as close to the engine as possible. That will give you a more realistic idea of what temperatures the engine is seeing.

Exhaust gasses lose a lot of heat in the turbo.

Did a few minor things not related to the turbo lately because of life still happening and not having enough time to proceed.

I got the wiring harness swapped from the old cab to the new one. I also installed the windshield and soft top. I hung the doors with a couple bolts each so I could adjust them but they were almost perfect with very little fussing.

I think I am ready to prime the fuel system and try starting the engine very soon. I will probably not run it very long until I get the pyrometer and boost gauges installed.

I don't have the gauges yet so I've put the turbo on the back burner for the moment.

I ended up spending some time helping my son's friend put a used Ford 8.8 in his TJ today. I welded the brackets on for him a while ago but told him the axle needed to be under the Jeep before I would weld the track bar bracket on. Today was the day that happened. Then I had to teach him how to bend up some brake lines.

I also managed to get some time to fiddle with my truck as well. I ended up breaking an almost brand new fuel pump trying to remove the outlet pipe from it. Fortunately for me my son volunteered to make the trip to town for a parts run.

I got the engine started in the end though. The oil pressure was great but I did notice a little bit of blow by. I'm not going to worry about that just yet. I have quite a bit of work left to do before the engine is really ready to stay running.

Now I've moved on to trying to get the hydroboost mounted up. The unit in my last truck was slightly different. The rod was only about two inches too long I think. This unit from a square body blazer is about three and a half inches too long. I think I will space the unit from the firewall about an inch or so and just cut and weld the rod to shorten that. I will likely sleeve the rod with a small piece of tubing.

Anyone see a problem with shortening the rod instead of spacing the boost unit all the way?

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psxpeags8w.jpg

I cut the hydro boost push rod down so I didn't have to have the boost unit spaced so far out on the firewall.

The black tubing is what is left of a piece of the jack handle from the spare tire jack of a Ford Explorer that I scrapped out when I used its axle on my TJ. It also worked quite well to modify some soft doors from a CJ7 to fit on the same TJ.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfrjrbxj.jpg

Here the shaft was welded back together minus the two and three quarters inches I removed. The tubing is a little loose but actually worked quite well.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pspjtszxhr.jpg

Installed in the truck. You can kind of see the electrical 1/2" chase nipple I used temporarily to space the booster from the firewall. I intend to box in the bracket that is attached to the booster so I can remove those spacers later.

Then I moved on to swapping the master cylinder seeing as the one attached to the booster was from a Blazer that was disk/drum.http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9fs7pzus.jpg

On the left is the infamous Corvette master cylinder that others on here have used. On the right is the Blazer master that was on the booster. The manual cylinder on the left has a deep hole so the rod doesn't fall out. On the right the cylinder has mostly just a dimple. I decided to take it apart to see if I could swap that part into the manual master. It is pretty close but no cigar. The piston is only slightly larger on the Blazer master.

I figured I'd install a spacer into the deep hole so the rod from the booster would have something to push against. I didn't really get any pictures of that though because I forgot. But when I got everything together I only had about half of the pedal travel I expected. I compared the distance I could push the Blazer master to the distance I could push the Corvette master. The Corvette master only went about half the distance as the Blazer. I took the Corvette master back apart to try and determine why.

I didn't really find a reason but I cleaned it up really well and put it back together. When it was assembled I tested it again and I had full piston travel. ??? I can only guess what I did different.