Looks like it came out good stampy. Glad it was able to work for you. Also looks like your making good time on your builb up. Keep the pictures rolling in. Sweeeeet:). J
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Looks like it came out good stampy. Glad it was able to work for you. Also looks like your making good time on your builb up. Keep the pictures rolling in. Sweeeeet:). J
Those stock tires look absolutely lost on there right now.....
:roll: Kids, and their lifted trucks.
Foodstamp, enjoy the lift now while you are still flexible enough to get in it.
I like the stock trucks because you can put massive tires on them without lifting them sky-high and requiring a step-ladder to get in.
Looking good. :thumbs:
my dad cussed the snot out of my 72 chev when i put an 8 inch lift and 39s on it. then the other day he told me how cool it was and that i need to get an engine back in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by kwai
lower is surely better, but i like it more for usability than for ease of entry. when i find the perfect victim my 715 will be slightly lifted but not to much
Ryan
I have found my near 40 year old back doesn't like hauling around 100+ pound tires, and using hi-lifts to just service the truck. I also find that most of my wheeling in some pretty serious stuff, has never required more than 33's at any point, but hey, to each their own.....
Just be sure those lifts and mods are done safely and correctly.
thanks....ya i acually have a question, and what bushings do you guys run on the leafs, and i need the steel ones too that go on the shackels.....i got more pics, give me a sec to up load them
You'd be better off loseing the body lift and just use the supension. Thats what I did on my old M715 and I ran 40's with no porblems
ya, im going to try and play around, and see whats better you know, but i cant mess with the body lift unlsee i really want to becouse that means moving my fuel tank, and drivetran,
Hey Stampy, Heres an idea to take care of the space between the bed and the frame. This company and a few more sell these things:
http://www.liftlips.com/
But I think you could make some out of 16ga. sheet metal and paint em' black. See ya, Jay
You didn't make those lift blocks out of 1-1/2" exhaust pipe, did you?
Chris
i was accually thinking about doing something like that, i was thinking rubber, but those pictures accually looked good, i might try that, or i might have my exhaust come out their, so that might be a idea too, 5 inch tips will fill it up nice:happy10:Quote:
Hey Stampy, Heres an idea to take care of the space between the bed and the frame. This company and a few more sell these things:
http://www.liftlips.com/
But I think you could make some out of 16ga. sheet metal and paint em' black. See ya, Jay
:D no.......i think it will work fine though, with all 8 mounts, and rubber, it should be fine right?Quote:
You didn't make those lift blocks out of 1-1/2" exhaust pipe, did you?
Chris
December 3rd, 2007 10:06 AM
my biggest worry would be the small footprint of the "blocks" you used and the dramatic increase in leverage the body now has on the body mount bolts. every time you take a corner or hit the brakes the body is going to try and shift and it wouldn't surprise me if the sheetmetal of the body, or the bolts fatigue over time. twisting it up off road will enhance this too. In my opinion, no more than 2" of body lift, and use a normal body mount puck.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
ya, i was going to make some with a bigger foot print, i was thinking the same thing too. on the body i used some really big fiber blocks, and the chevy rubber, i dont think its going anyware, jaydoggie seen it, what do you think JD?....i agree on the bed, but i needed to mount it and put it back on, im going to make some different ones, thats why i only mad 4 of the little ones, these next ones will be as round as the cab and have the same rubber.
do you guys think that would work out, i was going to use 2 1/5 pipe or 3 inch
In nearly any body lift situation, no more than 2" is recommended.......although I have seen some pretty crazy stuff out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanroo
yeah there are some crazy do-it-yourselfers out there that make some sweet hack jobs. some of it is scary
oh, i was accually going with 3 inch as my game plan, then i for got to compensate the rubber, so maby ill cut it down to 3 inch blocks, i think that if i go any lower i might be getting into some trouble.....or is 4 inch not that bad enough to worry about all and all its probly a 3 1/2 becouse of the weight ontop of the rubber. let me know becouse i can alwase try it out, but only if its worth it
What size tires were you going to run, stampy?
Do you not read any of the responses to your post? I think more than 1 person strongly suggested not going above 2". It doesn't matter how thick the tube wall is, or how big the diameter of the tube is. You are changing the geometry of the mounts, and thus going from just a shear load produced onto the body bolts, to a combined shear and moment load (Moment comes from the increased leverage you now have). You put some weight in the back of that thing, get going off road and hit the body, your going to possibly bend and/or fatige the bolts. I'm not sure why your worried about body lift over 2" anyways, the stock 715 springs aren't the greatest for suspension flex.
If I HAD to have more than 2" of body lift, I would totally redo the bed and body mounts. Cut them off and make new ones that are the correct height, none of this "block" stuff. Thats just my opinion though.
Rollie did a 3 inch lift by cuttng off the stock and making strong, all new body mounts...he is an engineer so he understood that right away.
I wouldnt go any other way.
...You mean if going more than 2 inches? Or for any body lift at all?Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
I also remember seeing shots of a body lift that someone made, Pasqelray (sp?) in AZ? He body lifted his truck and it looked great. IIRC he used 2x4 square tubing- it was some pretty thick metal as well. That truck was pretty sweet- gonz
Binford....for more than 2 inches, yes. For any lift, I would make sure that the stock ones are solid and straight, etc...no need to have issues with that later.
Actually, I wouldnt do a body lift...but thats my choice.
The only time I have seen a body lift that was necessary, was for drivetrain clearance. (i.e; trans tunnel too small in a swap)
Tire clearance can be done with suspension alone and done safely with the correct components. Of course if you are using so much tire you need additional clearance in the body department, you're probably overrunning the axle capacity anyway....
hmm... i dont know, ill do something i guess. but anywase, what are you guys using for your suspention bushings?
NOS shackles come with new bushings.
You can some body mounts for a 1967 to mid 70's chevy pickups & Blazers that are 3 1/2" tall from LMC Trucks.
ok, thanks.....what about the steel bushings?
ok, every one is prety much telling me to go to civilian axles, should i, or not? arnt the military axles better and lower geared?
There's pro's and cons to both. On your budget unless you can afford a thousand bucks at least. I'd stick with stock. Run em until you break them, then fix them or swap.
x2
ok, thanks, maby later on down the road. i dont think ill have a problem with them....but hey check out usa6x6.com, they make h1 beadlocks with custom lug patterns, the set i want is 150 each rim. and they look sweet, they have a video of a 715 on their with the rims, and its prety cool.
Some of our members and members of other forums I visit have had really, really bad experience with the company you mentioned. You might want to search around for satisfied customers before you send them any money. Because no matter what the product turns out to be, you probably won't get the money back.
Good way to put it Tim...and so true.
i have heard similar thingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
Ryan
ok, ive been talking to some other guy, and he said the same, ill look it up right now
heres the first site i found.....but im going to look at a bunch tonight and post replys of what they say
Quote:
There has been some "talk" in the past about the USA6x6 products and service. I have no past experience with USA6x6, but I was told about the quality of the workmanship and the delays in receiving one's order. Well, looking at the wheels upon arrival, they look well made. The welds are clean, though there is some splatter, but nothing worth worrying about. The machine work on the wheels is what I would expect from any other manufacturer. After the custom rockrings I had ordered were completed, the wheel themselves were completed and delivered within a reasonable timeframe. I just want to mention that this timeframe is very typical for nearly all custom wheel builders in the U.S..
the second site was a cover a jp mag, and the guy had his on rockwells, and seemed like he was happy with them i guess
third site was ramchargercentral and the guy was mad about his rims
i think this site was tacomateritory.com....the guy was saying that he was happy with them
Quote:
I had no problem with Daniel like others have had in the past. He forgot my new o-rings and he had them shipped next day b/c he felt bad. If you don't want to deal with USA6x6 talk to Creative Engineering in TX. They also carry the same centers also Rhonda and Mark are awesome to deal with.
Okay, dude... Let us know how it goes with you!
Hey, they couldn't be in business if they botched EVERY job they did, right?!
YMMV....