Nope, no camera anymore. I will try to steal it back from the social studies teacher.
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Nope, no camera anymore. I will try to steal it back from the social studies teacher.
What brand and model are the rims? I was going t look for 2 more.
I got the camera back this morning and actually had some progress to take a picture of. First, is how the truck or frame looks with the 12.50-20 XL tires on it. Lots better. The cab and seats on the back of the frame make it look not as cool as just bare, but you get the idea:
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8...thrimsandt.jpg
The VE pump 6BT has a Getrag 2wd 5 speed attached to it. This has a 1410 fixed yoke output. The 32 spline NP205 belonging to Sermis has 1310 yokes. So does my 32 spline 205. The hold up the last few months has been how to connect the two. No direct conversion ujoint exist.
I got a double cordin joint with 1340 ujoints and thought a pair of conversion joints would make it work. There is no 1410 to 1340 or 1350 conversion joint. I did find a very expensive 1310-1340 joint though.
I took all the yokes to Sermis a few weeks ago and basically admitted defeat. We scrounged around in his stack of shafts, yokes and joints. Several "almost" were found. but it wasn't until he pulled up some old Chevy 1 ton shaft that we got something that might work.
This yoke is cut from the shaft he had:
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/794...151410yoke.jpg
Direct bolt on to the Dodge yoke through a ujoint.
Then we cut up a stock M715 short shaft this morning. This shaft is a direct bolt onto the NP205 through a ujoint:
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/5...51310shaft.jpg
They even fit together:
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/1...versionsha.jpg
Now we have to finish dressing them out and cut the shaft to the length we want. Well, we want as short as possible. Anybody have a clue of how short is too short? I was just going to make the center to center of the ujonts the same as some double cardin joints I have here. The thinking is that they work at that length. However, if we can get it shorter. Less fab work will have to be done to the front and rear shafts.
You don't have to worry about feeling inadequate, mine is only 5.5"
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Bumper024.jpg
Goes to my '58 M37
Is that 5.5" center to center of the ujoints? Cool, thanks.
I tried to chuck the thing up in my lathe last night at home and it kept wanting to fly off and hit me in the head. I only had a few minutes to mess with it though. I will get some quality time next week. Probably wear a helmet just in case though.
The truck, well frame looks good. I think the tires are just about right.
Pitman arm? Still needing one?
center to center
Just got back from the camp out. Yes, we still need a pitman arm.
Both look like my duce to 205 shaft. If you want I can measure it center to center, Tim.
Thanks Mark, but I have at least 1 M35 shaft here to play with. It is much bigger. I might actually have time tonight to try the lathe again. We will see.
I got it cut, the parts actually fit together and now it is on the truck for fitting. The student that did the cutting of the 1310 yoke didn't really go in a straight line, so it looks off a little. It isn't off at the ends though. You can also see in the pictures how much further back from stock the T-Case is now.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/674...shortshaft.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/775...ortshaftan.jpg
Now to make the mounts, make sure it is square and then to figure out the other drive shafts.
Well, after we actually weld this shaft up that is.
maybe a silly question but, to what points are you measuring to check 'squareness'?
If there is any chance that my frame could be bent or tweaked, where would one measure to/from?
I really don't know if my cement is even 'square' or flat enough and don't have 4 big enough jack stands that are the same to equalize things either..
I'm thinking of using hockey pucks for body bushings so, will that added 'lift' effect linkage/shifting levers to the 205?
In essence, how tight of tolerance does there need to be?
Air-O-space (dial caliper) or caveman (16lb sledge)?
E
We measured and then centered the front pulley on the engine exactly in the middle. Then we built motor mounts to keep it there.
We measured and then centered the transmission output shaft exactly in the middle of the frame rails. Then we built a mount to keep it there.
I plan to make the 205 input yoke exactly parallel to the transmission output yoke. Then, have the passenger side drop the same as the stock 200.
I am not going to worry about measuring between the frame rails for the tcase. The rear axle was set in with the pinion yoke verticle. The front axle was set up for 7° of Caster if I remember right. I actually think this was posted about earlier in this thread a few years ago.
That answer your question?
I guess so. I wasn't sure if the 'stock' engine location was EXACTLY centered or off to one side or not..
And these frames were not pampered all that much, so I don't know if I'm dealing with a 'tweaked' frame on mine or not.
The previous owner said that he had all 4 wheels off the ground.. As in jumped it:eek:
E
We were finally able to get back to work on this project this week. The home made short shaft is now welded and best we can tell exactly square:
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/9...ortshaftwe.jpg
We also spent the last 3 days getting a broken bolt out of the Getrag output yoke. Now we are back to making the 205 mount exact. Then we get to build some more drive shafts.
I am still confused on how you mounted the front 60. you didn't use the factory mount because you are outside the frame. so what did you do?
We used the stock M715 leaf springs and spring mounts. Under the frame. Then, once we got the castor set. We welded on a spring perch for the drivers side and ground the spring perch in the passenger side casing so it was the correct angle.
We have a student that has completed his welding certification test and wants to do practical welding instead of just test plates. He loves the way the M715 looks and he asked if there was any welding needed to be done on the truck we are building for Sermis. For the past 2 months he has been spending 1 to 1-1/2 hours per day doing something to that truck.
Cutting off the stock t case cross member mounts
welding up the holes made by cutting
fabricating new cross member mounts
making NP205 mounts to fit the cross member
finishing the short shaft
mounting the 205 to the cross member
welding the cross member mounts on
cutting them off and welding them on the right spot
re making his mounts so the 205 is level
clearancing the cab floor so the 205 fits 8" behind where the cab floor has space for it
making a shifter linkage holder to the Gertrag
mounting the parking brake and tcase shifter
making linkages for them
I can't think of anything else right now.
Anyway, here is how the 205 looks in there this morning after we pulled the cab off again:
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/2091/12...asemountal.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/644/12...asemountfr.jpg
Here is how the shifter tunnel looks with everything hooked up and how close the brake is to the back of the cab:
http://imageshack.us/a/img694/8364/1...anstunnelm.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/5756/1...aseunderca.jpg
The student is now trying to make 5 drive shafts into 2 that will work for the totally different lengths we need. Then I will find something else for him to make.
Sounds like he is learning some valuable automotive fab skills. some of them the hard way :)
it looks like the drivers side t-case MT could use a gusset to keep it from fatiguing over time.
So unless I am missing something, a single stick with a t-bar, so either you have 2 high or 4 low?
Scott
Tightening the bolts might help too. We made it like that so a pto would fit and clear. Have to drive the winch once we make a mount for it.
It will also have 4H. If u twin stick the 205 then u get full control.Quote:
Originally Posted by fishtail
Front and rear is H or L or N, and 4x4 or front wheel or rear wheel drive.
We were going to twin stick it, but went with the stock for the 205 single stick. 4H, 2H, N and 4L are what it gives us.
We finished making the front drive shaft today. We don't have a way to balance it, but a dial indicator shows the thing to have amazingly little run out.
http://imageshack.us/a/img836/8237/1...ontdrivesh.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img72/8237/12...ontdrivesh.jpg
We will start making a rear shaft tomorrow.
We got the rear drive shaft made yesterday. I haven't found the proper conversion ujoint to tie into the rear axle yet so it isn't mounted and no pictures.
Basically, that means it is time to take everything apart again, re enforce any welds that need it, clean everything up and start throwing paint. Well, we might do some exhaust work first. But, first, none of the students currently in my class where here the last time the 6BT was fired up. They asked to hear it run.
I spent a few minutes wiring it up and priming the fuel system after 3.5 years of sitting open. I also turned the engine over 2 revolutions by hand just to make sure everything was free. I hot wired the IP solenoid, hit the starter and had it roaring all in about 3 seconds. Fired up and idled great. I wants to run!
We will pull things apart the next few weeks.
Oh, no video since it sounds the same as it did the last time.
We got the cab off, engine out, motor mounts re enforced, clutch installed, new pilot and throw out bearing installed. Then put the engine/transmission back in. That was all a month or more ago. We also have all the brake lines run that we can without the cab on the truck. Then we have been waiting for RED to get done so I could bring the cab home and sand/paint it here. That happened today.
http://imageshack.us/a/img402/1696/img1576lr.jpg
Hopefully, I can get to it next week some time.
3 months later and the cab is back in my class. I didn't have the time I thought I would and when I did start sanding, I found rust on the drivers side rocker. More than Sermis or I wanted to just fill in and cover with filler. Since that meant welding and lots and lots of time. I brought it back to my class.
I was gone all last week for Scout summer camp. My students were watched by the body shop teacher. He had them sanding on it all week down to bare metal. I got a picture of the rust this morning:
http://imageshack.us/a/img19/3624/oq6a.jpg
We are going to just cut out the rocker and make a new one since it is such simple bends.
Ditto on the springs and bushings, my 93 Dodge W350 had death wobble and it turns out the bushings were worn out about 5 degrees which wiped out the tie rod ends and eventually the steering box
I know in a way earlier post someone asked about motor mount pictures but it was all complete so you couldnt get any. Would you be able to take some ? That is of course if it is still apart. Cool build. Its coming along very nice.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Passenger side top view:
http://imageshack.us/a/img46/6733/zl2s.jpg
Passenger side front view:
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/110/3v87.jpg
Drivers side back view:
http://imageshack.us/a/img90/6008/bzk9.jpg
Thank you very much !
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Why do you have the insulator mount sideways?
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/a...insM715002.jpg
I didn't know which way it was supposed to go since I don't own a Dodge. The way I have it seems to work fine.
10 months after they got it, 9 wire wheels, 2 rocker panels and a bunch of sanding later. The cab is now primed, painted and done:
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...715painted.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...paintedcab.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...aintedcab2.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...aintedcab4.jpg
We plan to roll the chassis over to the body shop Monday and very, very carefully put them together for what I hope will be the last time. Then we can start putting things together for real finally.
Sweet! Did you use the wire wheels for stripping paint, or rust/junk removal Tim?
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Going black on the rims or leaving them bling bling?
Wire bruch cups for stripping down to bare metal George.
Your rims are still blingy blingy Steve. Once we get the cab on the frame, pictures will follow.
Sorry for the barge in Sermis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
Tim, just the regular cupped brushes that would fit in a drill? The reason I ask is that I have been stripping my cab for paint
George, I use the kind the screw onto a grinder. The ones you get at TSC and such last about 5 minutes. I only get wire brushes from Airgas welding supply stores. They cost the same but last about 10 times longer.
Having written all of that. I really like a thing Harbor Freight sells. It is a grinder wheel made of some composite mixture. I used a bunch of them to get the 60 year old paint and primer off the Gasser when I took it down to bare metal. The only problem is about 1 out of every 5 disk will come apart in the first few minutes of sanding. The rest last a very long time and take the super tough military paint right off.
The ones I have are black with orange stickers. It seems the new ones are blue:
http://www.harborfreight.com/replace...ver-66101.html