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3/16 is to thick for the filler strip. 3/16 is .1875 and the gap is roughly .150 and I spent 4 hours looking to replace a piece of self adhesive .145 rubber I have here. I cannot find a replacement. To many amazon ads and those links have ruined searches. I am working on a bulb seal with a flange to replace a filler strip. This is nuts. Amazon and FB can just disappear and the world will be a better place.
I am looking for a workable solution for the masses that is easy to accomplish. I have ordered a self adhesive rubber filler strip that is .125 thick. This allows room for a flange bulb seal. I will cut the lower part of the bulb to act as a lip seal for contact with the door metal. Then tuck it in the wing window channel attached to the main gasket. I also ordered more pliobond to do the glueing work. Pliobond 20 is one of the most amazing adhesives I have ever encountered. I shortened a long bed m35 cover to fit the regular bed. I accidentally had the cover on backwards and ended up cutting the front of the cover. I motored that rig down the hiways and the glue joint held like a vise. Pliobond is wind, gas, vibration proof. It will be used to get these gasket pieces held together. It will be a week or so for the products to show up. I am hoping this is the answer to fresh wing window gaskets. Stay tuned.
Frustrating for sure.
Well my 11 feet of restoration specialties wing window gasket showed up. In fantastic condition and delivered with total care and punctuality.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I tell ya...
So I am trying to find what works for the easiest install. What I am settling with is not my first choice. Originally I wanted to just do a filler strip that unfortunately would get rid of the inner lip. It would keep the glass in place but it would leave a gap in the window frame and door inner skin. This is what a filler strip looks like.
Keep in mind the outside appearance is perfect and OEM looking. The filler strip. This piece was cut with a knife. A machine cut filler strip would look much cleaner with a precise visible edge.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
This is what I am working towards. The gap is roughly .150 wide. A 3/16 filler strip is a hard fit at .1875 So Wanting my inner lip back I discovered a bulb seal cut on the inside bottom of the bulb will make a lip that can sit on the outside of the glass frame. So I have ordered a .125 filler strip and a rubber long flange bulb seal and will glue all of it together with pliobond. After cutting the bulb. This is with a no flange bulb seal to experiment with appearance and function. It is bulky and not perfect, but it will do.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
This is a better fit but has a difficult part. It is from the sample pack I bought. It is nearly 7 bucks a foot with 11 feet needed. 10 feet with no mistakes. What it entailed to use it would be to make a jig with a cutting blade to shave off the needed part of the gasket. Then gluing the saved part on to the restoration specialties gasket to make a superb fix. Making the jig to draw through the gasket would be hard and not easy for everyone to do. But this is the nice fix.
The parent gasket. This is a filler gasket for a Plymouth super bee. No wonder it is 7 bucks a foot.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
This is the cut and grafted part that makes a nice lip. Glued on it would work very nicely.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Anyway, I am settling for the bulb seal. Hope it goes together easily and stays.