When you do the camo you paint the truck the solid base color first, then put the camo spots on over the base color. If you really want authenticity, then do OD first, then the camo color base coat. The interior of the truck should be OD.
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When you do the camo you paint the truck the solid base color first, then put the camo spots on over the base color. If you really want authenticity, then do OD first, then the camo color base coat. The interior of the truck should be OD.
i was going to paint it kaki then do camo over it, i probly will paint the interior OD or kaki, havent decided yet. if the out side is desert storm, the inside dosent need the camo too right, just the base color?
You aren't doing a reso machine so do what you want. If you want to be correct then the interior is supposed to be whichever shade of green you like (Army or Marine).
so even when the outside is kaki, the inside is OD?...
can you buy a kit for the desert storm camo?
The inside cab would be OD even when the outside has been painted a differen color. The military rarely bothers to repaint the inside of the cab and the factory delivered them in OD.
But you're not going for a 100% restoration or anything are ya? So paint the inside whatever color you like best.
The trucks that are the dark OD get HOT in the summer. Thats why I went with the sand color. After some time, I have decided to go from all sand to a combination camo scheme. I reccomend the lighter colors to stay cooler.
ok.....thanks.
i have a idea how to get more lift out of the rear, and maby a little more flex. im goint to cut off the spring hangers, and mount them under the chassis, that will keep the shackel from over extending or how ever you want to say it, and more leverage for flex, and lift it about a nother inch or 2. just a ide, but what do you guys think, i could probly draw it on cad to show you better then i can describe
You are planning on removing a few leafs, right? Hate to break it to you, but I don't care what you do to get more leverage, but unless you remove some leafs, you'll never even come close to over extending the shackle, and even then, I don't think shackle overextension is a problem.
Holy smokes, I just found the camo talk on the tail end of this thread and to make my contribution to the zones longest thread ever, just want to put in my 1/50th a dollar. I was the guy that laid it out in soapstone and then filled it in with the krylon in the driveway. Here is the link to when I started it:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...attle+can+camo
and here are some more shots after I doctor'd it up a bit more:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...=Labor+day+car
I ended up calling it the "Fish Hook Camo Pattern" If you look close you can see abunch of them hidden all over it. If I had to do it again I would probably follow the camo specs alot closer. They can also be found under the Manuals section in the green bar above all this. They are toward the bottom of the list on the left hand side under Kaiser M715 Cammo Pattern. As far as the liquior and paint fumes go I enjoyed plenty of both. My old respirator barely works but it was better than nothing. I guess you could say that I could paint the roof without using a ladder:D.
I am a couple of weeks away from ordering the Gillespie good stuff and will get a better respirator by then....Hopefully! Good Luck, Jay
Woops, I copied the same link twice, must have been thinking of those paint fumes, this should be the second one:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...=Labor+day+car
thanks jay puppy...ill have to give that a try, your paint looks prety nice. once im done priming, ill get some of the kaki for a base, then try out that soap stone thing...
today i took my permit test......passed, i missed 3 questions out of i think 46
what colors is it, the light brown dark brown and black...theirs one more...
kaiserkoski's truck has the stock paint and its kinda red....is that how all of them were? or is their another color i can use
I spent about a half an hour looking at new trucks right from the factory at the Armory the other day and 1/3 of the trucks where flat forest green, 1/3 were nato 3 color camo and 1/3 were flat sand. You could see on the sand trucks where they were taped off and shot sand over the OD. Rubber was painted sand, sand paint on the tires, around the lights etc I open the cab door and guess what....Flat Forest Green on the inside! So kwai was right on the money!Quote:
Originally Posted by kwai
Kaiserkoski's truck was used in the middle east, was it not? Egypt or such, as I recall. So the color may be completely different from what you'd normally expect to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
I remember he said he was curious as to what the Arabic writing on his tailgate meant, so he did what makes perfect sense...he took it by a convenience store and asked the clerk! lol.....
ya....lol, i rember him telling me that, i think he said it ment shining star....
i know some kid that will probly own a 7 11 one day, and i had him write some eribic for me, cool stuff...
hey, my hood seams kinda floppie, it has the 2 braces that go down the middle, and the ridge in the center, but it seems a little floppie, its still strong, but you know what i mean. is your guys like that too?
A floppy Hood? sounds like a problem. Oh you mean your truck. They are kinda floppy. Don't worry about it if all your hood supports are there and it works. You wouldn't want to climb or walk accross it either.
ya lol...ok i was just wondering, i was sanding it down, and its really floppy kinda on the sides closer to the middle ridge you know what i mean man.
what is the deal, ok im using rustoleum primer, and when i go to sand it, it sorta rubs off, its kinda rubberie, and it cakes up the sandpaper quick and makes a big mess on the truck. its a pain in the turd cutter.
You need sandable primer. And then some primers that aren't that sandable can be sanded, just need to let them cure a few days. I use sandable primer over body repairs or areas of filler. When that spot looks and feels good I use the red oxide over everything. Let the red oxide dry for a few days, sand with 400 grit, blow off and tack rag. Then shoot Gillespie.
ok.....whats the red oxide? i have some primer thats red, i think it says bondo filler, and then theris one more can, and i cant rember what it is, but it dosent have the ball inside the can like most paint....im using 320 on one of those ob sanders.....i tryed it by hand and it still did the same thing. so i dont know what it is, usually rustolium is awsome paint.
whats Gillespie
If your hood is floppy, look at the very front center of it. Have a big crack? Most of them do. I welded my hood up last summer before painting it. 4k miles or so later and the metal next to my welds cracked. I am going to get some FSJ latches and install them so that either a replacement hood or this one repaired won't crack again.
I have a M725 hood and two FSJ hoods at the house, I just need to actually look at them, sand/paint one of them and then order more stickers. Save yourself the trouble and find the FSJ latches now.
If not that, then at least build a strut to connect the FSJ latch mounts so the hood won't flex.
Yep, sounds like you're not letting it cure long enough, or putting it on too thick. Sometimes if you get it too thick it will skin over on the outside and sorta prevent what's under it from curing as fast as it should.
I've been guilty of that when trying to fill some deep scratches. A few thin coats with a little flash time between work better for me than a single heavy coat.
its been untouched for a week...while i was in school for the week, i didnt touch it...its been out in the sun too...
i dont know lol
hey Barrman, i have no clue how mine is, but ill look at it and see, but i have a idea for you to try that might solve your problem...your hoods cracking from bouncing around, and thats were its stressing out, so what i think would help, is i dont know what their called...but every car has them, and they are like little pads that the hood sits on...
well anywase, put one of those in the middle of the grill so that were your hood is cracking its sitting on that....so that the hood dosent bounce up and down and crack...
just a idea
The hood goes up due to air pressure at speed and from bumps...just the civvy grill wont stop that. The real problem is that there is no center support or hold down...it is being drawn down on the outside corners but not at all in the middle.
Put on a civvy type center mounted hook holddown and the problem will stop.
I've had similar problems with some of the rattle can primer. I've found Dupli-Color to be the worst. Its like it never cures fully. The real stuff that you put on with a gun, can be sanded within hours if the temp is stable in the 60-80 degree range.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
You might try to first knock off the top layer with some very fine 600 or so paper, beforehand. Sometimes its just the surface that will sort of smear when sanded.
I'd be careful though, putting paint over anything that doesn't seem like its cured or sticking well. You may have trouble later down the road.....
ok...ill have to try that
hey, i like the thread name hah.......i it seriousley the longest thread here?
well, i might be getting a 353 for this cheap...and im going to rebuild it...
in the mean while im making a 350....i picked up 2 full blocks, and trying to make one good one, i have a vortec block, everythings ok, except the block, its scared up bad, the crank is scared, but the heads are nice, so im taking those, and some other random things
then i picked up a old block, i tor it down, its never been rebuilt, and its way better, so im going to pop out the pistons, put the block in a boiler, change the rings and berings...then all the other things, put it together and see what i have.
Not to rain on your parade, but have you ever been around a 3-53 much? It makes enough racket to cause the operator to be sterile for the rest of his life and makes slightly less power than a 5 horse Briggs suffering from extreme blow-by. It is however ungodly heavy, at least it has that going for it.
ive seen the one im trying to get... its about as big as the 6 cyl that i pulled out....ive been talking to a guy that has one in a 64 chevy, and he said that it will probly have the power or the 6 cyl too which is kind of a put down. he said they have good torque.
ill just try it out, and if i dont like it ill swap it out back to something else. ill have the 350 if anything happens.
Don't get me wrong - I LIKE different. I think most of us do, considering what we have a passion for. But a 3-53 is going to be a PITA to put in. If it was something cool/rare then I'd say go for it on that basis alone. The weight and lack of HP means that sand/mud are things to avoid - oh, stay off the hwy too. They are WAY loud in a way that isn't good even to a sub 21 year old.
If you are 14 or less, have a lot of time/help/money then do it and take the pics! Then when you get closer to the legal driving age swap it out for that 350 or a Ford 460 - something you will actually want to drive.
My .02
Dang, Ronner is giving employees the boot AND talking about putting a reasonable motor into a truck. Has anyone checked the temp. in hell recently?
There IS a Hell, Michigan.....
http://www.hell2u.com/
Just keep in mind that in order to put something as odd-ball as that diesel engine into the truck, and getting it to function well enough to determine whether you like it or not, will likely cost a significant amount of time as well as money for adapters, engine mounts, exhaust fabricating, driveshaft modifications, &tc., &tc., &tc...Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
No offense, but you're what? 16 or so? (I think I recall hearing you mention that once.) And on a tight budget too, if I remember correctly. I know in my teen years my budget was way tighter than it is now 30 years later! You'd do well to keep this $tuff in mind when you're thinking through your option$ here. I suppose you probably are, but I figured it's worth mentioning anyway.
I'm like the rest of the gang here in that I'd love to see you come up with something cool and unique, but you still have to live within the realm of the practical, and affordable. You'll want to get in the thing and drive it, I assume, so keep in mind the KISS principles will get you there quicker, and still leave you with enough green to buy fuel for it!
Glad you like the thread title change! ;)
ya...i here you. thats why i have this 350 going in it...im going to try and get that going cheap so i can start driving it...i dont know man i really want a 353, and i can get it cheap, and put it in cheap too, i have thee bell for it, and ill use the same tranny. all i have to do is swap motors, and bolt in the 353. its one of those thing that i want to experiance you know?
ha this weekend was kinda funny, i spent 2 hours trying to get the shifter off my sm465 so i can put it in, my dad told me to pull that pin out that looks like it goes through the shifter, then i decided to just take off the top, which was a pain too, it took about 2 min just to pull off the hat becouse of the reverse gear and all that....then once the trannys in kaiserkoski pulls up and goes check this out, pushes down on my shifter rotates it and it pops out....he did what i did in 2 hours in 3 secounds....i couldent believe it, i had no clue about that lol
but i made a crosmember, and i think ill have to modify it becouse my yoke might get in the way.....or ill just flip it around which will be a easy fix too except ill have to move my mounts that go on the frame rails
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0133.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0136.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0139.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0138.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0137.jpg
mock up block
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/000_0140.jpg
what do you think. that top looks sexie, thanks jay doggie dogg (this thing was a PITA to put on) and thanks soo much for the buttons:happy10: check out my blazer fuel tank
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/100_2489.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/100_2488.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...5/100_2472.jpg
why the huge body lift?
just to lift it higher. its 4 inches, i wanted 3 inch, but i didnt think about the rubbers. but anywase, i kinda like it high, i agree its high. but not much i can do at the moment, we have to move out of our shop so im starting to put it back together. but i think that once i put the 42's under it it will look good, my lift is only 1 inch higher than kaiserkoski's truck, and i think his truck is sweet
heres nicks truck, it has a 3 inch body lift and 42 inch tires. i have a 4 inch body with 42 inch tires too.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...sm715/nick.jpg