George, what throttle cable did you use? I am searching for one that will fit mine.
Printable View
George, what throttle cable did you use? I am searching for one that will fit mine.
I used an 87 cable from a k2500/6.2. The pedal side was fine, but had to improvise on the IP side because the cable was too long. I used a set screw throttle cable clamp to make a loop.
I'll see if I can get a picture when I get come in a week (hunting, and they have cellular data service in the bottom 1/3 of Illinois this year!)
Don't worry about it George. I was thinking of just doing an LMC order for one and wanted to confirm what you had.
Thanks.
Sounds good Tim. Looks like good progress on yours
Axles are out of the truck and along with the tires, will be headed to Michigan to Jeeper's house this weekend.
New axles with 4.10's and 4 wheel disc brakes going under soon. Rear 14 bolt is done (stripped, painted, new calipers). I'll probably get that one in new years weekend.
Front dana 44 (temp for a few years, until I get other things done on the truck), needs the be stripped, painted, bearings packed, ball joints. That one will be a good long day in the garage... or a few short ones as time permits
Looks like progress is being made.
Are you going to do a spring over with the new axle?
No, staying stock Paul, just looking for some more street able gears, disc brakes to go with the hydro boost, and 8x6.5 wheel pattern.
Looking good Fling. I was there a while back. Looks like you will probably beat me done.
Thanks Troop. I just try to keep taking little bites out of it. Eventually it will get done
I try to do little bites myself. I have had a tendency to bite off more than I can chew in the past.
I also get distracted quickly.
I've got a 6.2 that I am planning on swapping in. I decided I would get it on my engine stand and fire it up to hear it run before I go through the trouble of extracting the old 305 gasser.
While it is on the stand I decided I might as well pull the pan and check the webs before I filled it full of new oil.
That led to degreasing and sanding down the oil pan and giving it a coat of paint.
Then the valve covers looked out of place because they didn't match...
Now I'm thinking I may as well wait until I get some tires from George before I pull the old engine because I want to drive my truck to see if it still vibrates at 48 MPH once I have some better tires.
Eventually I may be done too.?!
I'm with you bro. I'm the king of getting side tracked while working on something. You see something else that you should do "while you are at it".
I dont have any vibrations at my top end of 43-45mph :eek:
Hopefully you guys dont get a big dump of snow tomorrow. So far, along I-80, it has been little snow, but lots of wind
I'm also hoping for no snow for the weekend.
George, do you have a tachometer on your diesel?
According to the RPM calculator spreadsheet I have I should have a top speed of 46 MPH at 2500 RPM with 36 inch tires. As I understand it 2500 RPM is a safe RPM upper limit for the 6.2. It can turn faster but doesn't live long above that.
I don't have a diesel tach and was starting to think I should figure out what my max speed will be in each gear once I get that diesel in.
No tach Paul, but used the same type of calculator and speed limit reasoning. My speedo is off because I'm using the chevy drivetrain, but the axles that I'm putting in is from the truck that the trans and xfer case are out of. I used gps to clock my speed
Rear axle in place. A little painting, then bolt everything down
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4a44a07c04.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...39074b310e.jpg
Looking good.
You'll be back on the road before you know it.
Did you do hydro-boost brakes? Do you have any pictures of that?
I have this pic from a few pages back, but can take a few more tomorrow or Friday
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
Thanks. I did see that one. I guess I was hoping to see what MC was used as well as how the power steering pump is plumbed. But after re-reading I'm wondering if you actually put a power steering box in?
No box, just HB and the pump. PS later on though
Looking good. Did you make the pinion guard or did you purchase it somewhere?
It was a precut kit from either greatlakes offroad or copperhead fab. You just bend the bottom into the "V", and weld it together
New tires in the house
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...06541eca14.jpg
Are you going to leave the plactic on so they don't get dirty rolling around your shop?
Yea. I may not even take them off of the pallet :D
I like your old tires just fine myself....
But those look good too.
The new hummer tires dont have nearly the tread (wish they did), but I can them easily enough from several places. I got these from Trailworthy fab for $100.00 each. They said 75-95% tread, and these look to be about 80%
What did you do for the linkage from the pedal to the booster?Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
I've started my hydroboost planning this afternoon.
When I measure the old linkage from the brake pedal to the master cylinder in the original setup I measure approximately 4 inches from the center of the pedal stud to the mounting surface of the master cylinder.
When I measure the hydroboost setup it measures approximately 6 inches.
The rod in the hydroboost doesn't appear to be removable on my unit.
I suppose I could cut and weld it but wondered what others have done.
I got my hydroboost originally for a CJ7. Elliott (from here, ebay, FSJ.org and other forums) had a kit with everything.
I never got around to hydroboosting my CJ, so when I got the 715, I contacted him, and had a new bracket made to mount the HB to the firewall. Everything else was a direct bolt in. If you are looking for ease, contact Elliot, he can hook you up. Otherwise, there are places that make adjustable pushrods.
There are certain things that I am willing to whip out the tape measure and tools to fab. This was one of them that I was happy to purchase and bolt in.
I haven't had a lot of time lately, so the axles swap has gone slow. I am just waiting for a set of wheel bearings to come in, and I can button it up and bleed the brakes. It had all new joints, steering, bearings, etc. Hopefully it will out last me
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psc1062c74.jpg
My buddy tig'd the steering linkage, so that will be done today. I was shorted one wheel bearing, which I hope will be in today. If it does it will be ready except for bleeding the brakes
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps4876495a.jpg
Front drive shaft shortened
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps340b73c0.jpg
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
[IMG]http://
I finally got some window time with the truck. I really havent taken it out of town since the axle swap.
I drove a 30 mile round trip on friday night, and a 50 mile round trip last night. It ran great. The flat window is terrible for night driving though...
Good to hear George.
I thought I'd be happy with a top speed of 45 but am starting to re-think that myself.
I'd also like a rear locker I think.
Does the 6.2 seem to have enough power with 4.56 gears?
Glad you got to drive it some George. Covering the back window is the only way to help with the reflections. It just helps, not fixes the problem.
A locker is great off road and a major pain on the street. It makes noise, lets you change lanes by getting on the throttle or off the throttle and it will scare the day lights out of you when trying to pull a trailer in the rain. Front tire wear and rear tire wear will be fun to watch too.
It chewed my NDT's up in just hundred miles. The Michelin tires are better, but front air psi is super important for tread wear. Spicer reported he could see little wisp of his super swampers coming off the rear tires as he went down the road.
Power is so subjective to the driver. My M715 is great unless I hook a trailer up to it and have to drive into a head wind up hill. My 1009 has 3.08 gears and has the same problem just 10 miles an hour faster than when the M715. The M715 can pull anything up any hill into any wind up to about 42 mph. My M1009 won't go faster than 53 with the same load on the same hill. My 6.2 powered, 3.44 gear USAF Suburban hits the same wall pulling the same load at 58 mph.
A 4.56 geared M1010 I did some work on for somebody a few years ago had the same thing happen at 48-50 mph.
I can't make a pattern out of what rpm you have to be at to get power. It ranges in the examples I gave from 1600 rpm to 2600 rpm. I think it really comes down to the IP, IP timing, air filter and how much wind resistance the truck has.
Paul, with 4.11's. I was. Very comfortable at 55. According to gear ratio calcs, with1:1 drive, and 37" tires, I should be able t cruise 65 without a strain.
Tim, I could see where a top with a blackout curtain would help. I had the top off, so I guess there is no help for that. I did clean the windshield yesterday, which helped with the ghost images that I thought were crossing the road...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I drove the truck into work yesterday. It was 150 mile round trip, and pretty hot out yesterday, but it ran perfect. I kept it at 55-60 the whole time, and most of the driving was highway.
I topped of the tank before starting, so when I top it off again, I should have an idea of the mileage.
How many waves and thumbs up did you get?
Lots Tim. When my daughter rode with me on Saturday she asked "why is everyone waving at us, this is weird"Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
I started making a hitch for the truck. It is 3/16", and will bolt to the bottom of the frame. I will also add side plates to bolt on the side of the frame, and add some sort of support to also tie into the frame towards the front.
Last night I just notched it, welded, and coated with Ospho. I did sand/clean/bevel where it is welded. There is a root pass in the bevel, and 1 pass over the top.
I don't see a lot of towing in the 715's future, but the pintle was too tall to pull a hay wagon/home coming float last year. I told Trevin that I would have it set up for him this year.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps42fa07bf.jpg