The solid state flashers have no patience for a short or any kind. If there is a bad wire to ground anywhere in the system, they will burn up and die.
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The solid state flashers have no patience for a short or any kind. If there is a bad wire to ground anywhere in the system, they will burn up and die.
I tried taking all that epoxy out. I was going to solder wires to the plug and hide a generic parts store flasher inside. It got old fast. Long story short, I just wired in one of those flashers and mounted it on the firewall inside the cab. I really wanted to get the solid state but couldn't justify the cost.
I got the epoxy out pretty quick but quickly realized there isn't enough room to mount a mechanical relay inside it.
I have an old Willys truck in my yard. It has a base mounted on the steering column for an electro-mechanical relay. The relay in it is six volt so I couldn't try it this afternoon. I will stop at NAPA tomorrow on my way home from work and pick up a few parts to experiment with.
I can't justify a $50 flasher. Especially if they burn out so easily.
I'm actually thinking I want the extra loud relay so I can hear the blinker anyway.
How'd you get it out? I went with hammer/chisel/ then drill/hammer/chisel/fire. I could only get it to chip off in little bits so I put it on the shelf for later (aka throw it out a couple years from now.)
I heated the top layer with a torch and scraped it off with a medium size screw driver. The top layer would burn as I scraped it. Then I clamped it in a vice and chipped it out with the same screw driver. It came out in pretty big chunks at first. I'd say I had maybe 10-15 minutes into it total.
There isn't much inside it. A circuit board maybe an inch and a half square with wires to the plug. That board is sticky taped to the base. It has a couple resistors what looks like some small transistors and some small capacitors maybe. And what looks like a big transistor bolted the the case which is the heat sync. The odd thing is the round part that has the sticker on it is actually bolted to the transistor and is removable. I may try dissecting that later.
Does your light on your lever work without the solid state flasher?
I removed the base that was screwed to the heat sync and plugged it back in to the harness. I wire nutted two wires together. I can now manually flash my signals by moving the lever on and off but the lever light doesn't work. With or without the ground wire connected.
Yeah, everything works with the $6 unit the same as it did with the stock set-up.
Flasher issue resolved by using a NAPA electro-mechanical flasher. It wasn't $6.00 it was more but I bought it anyway. I still don't have parking lights but I'm not really sure I ever did anymore. I don't remember if I had them last year and I never really use them anyway so I'm not worrying about that for now.
My newest problem is throwing my belt.
I have a serpentine belt setup on my 6.2 and I have shredded/thrown 3 belts in the last 300 miles.
I've checked every pulley for any play/wobble but don't see any. I tried a new idler pulley. I've check the harmonic balancer. Best I can guess I have something out of alignment.
So I've got to learn how to align a serpentine belt system on a 6.2. Anyone here know where to start?
Good news on the flasher Paul.
I have a v-belt setup on mine, so no insight on serpentine alignment, sorry.
put a straight edge on them. Can you 'read' the sheeves and see where the missalignment is.
I tried using a straight edge but am having a difficult time getting it to tell me much.
After fiddling with it for a few minutes I decided to just eyeball it That's when I spotted a bracket on the power steering pump that looked to be installed wrong. I looked at the pulley on the power steering pump and tried to eyeball it to the crank. I think my power steering pulley was at a slight angle because the bracket may have been pushing the top of the pump out a little.
I re-installed the bracket and the pump pulley now looks parallel to the crank. I haven't been for a drive yet but am optimistic.
I spent some time in the garage tonight and wired in a high idle switch and a compressor switch. I am still planning on having on board air and am using a Harrison AC pump for the air pump. I am still contemplating how to oil the pump but am pretty sure I will get it sorted out sometime. I may burn one or two pumps out but I'm sure I'll eventually have a usable air setup. I'm probably going to start with a standard in line tool oiler and see how that works out.
I have also started building my on board welder. I bought a cs144 GM alternator from a salvage yard and removed the internal voltage regulator and diode pack. I bought an external diode pack and will be wiring that to a control box on my fender. I'll post up pictures when I have something to look at. The cs144 is rated at 124 amps compared to the 100 amp alternator that came stock on my engine. With a high output stator it can put out over 200 amps. I'm probably not going to get that just yet. My old CJ was welding just fine with a 100 amp alternator.
I'm getting a little embarrassed. I have gone through 4 belts in the last ~325 miles. I'm ready to purchase a laser tool to align the pulleys. I can't figure out what isn't lined up. This time the belt didn't come off but split down the middle. I pulled over and removed the broken part and drove home at 25 mph hoping the unbroken part of the belt would hold. It did.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
I wouldn't say they need to be laser aligned.
Run one for a few miles and inspect see what ya see. I would say it is odd.
How tight are u getting the belt? Or does it have its own self adjuster.
Do all your pulleys and belt have the same number of ribs?
Inspect every pulley all the way around. Maybe one has a burr or some damage that is tearing them up.
Did you by chance change the harmonic balancer?
No I haven't. I've checked the rubber on it a couple times and it still seems solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
I've seen your posts about the balancer going out so I have checked mine.
Should I replace it anyway? I suppose it may be cheap insurance?
Today I used my laser level to see if I could line up the pulleys. To be clear I didn't actually try to move any pulleys today. It was just an experiment of concept.
I held the laser level flat against the alternator cooling fins. On my cs144 alternator it is a nice flat surface that is easy to access.
When I pointed it at the power steering pump the laser hit on the rear grove of the pulley. When I held it in place and spun it up to the A/C pump it was in the center of the pulley. That is at least a 1/4" difference.
I couldn't hit the crank pulley from my alternator because the tensioner was in the way. I haven't removed that yet to see where it hits.
I'm trying to come up with a way I can move the level to other pulleys to get an idea if my alternator is that far off or if the A/C pump is off by that far. I couldn't get any pictures because I was by myself today but I plan to get my son to help get some pictures this week so I can post up what I'm doing.
The level I'm using is an Ideal #35-207 laser level. It is supposed to draw a line on the surface it is aimed at but that lens broke a few years ago so the level has been sitting in my tool box forgotten about until this weekend. I'm hoping to find a replacement lens for it soon. It actually came in handy when running conduit. But I haven't run much conduit in the last 9 years. I'm just using it as a laser pointer until I can find a new lens.
No on the balancer if it looks ok and the engine kind of shakes to a stop when you turn it off. I am not really sure how else to describe that. When you turn it off, it will almost seem a violent end. Compared to a worn out gas engine that kind of winds down. If that makes any sense. If you belts are loose enough, the alternator and water pump might actually squeal when you turn off the engine. That is all good. Bad is when it doesn't shake because it normally means the balancer is moving.
With 1/4" difference, I think you just have an alignment problem. I don't know what a serpentine 6.2 system looks like. I have never seen one. I do know the V belt 6.2 set up has very little room between the ps bracket and pulley. However, the bracket attaches to the block on studs. Does yours?
If so, maybe, just maybe you put the studs on the engine and the bracket over the studs. Compared to using the stud to hold the bracket on. That would move it about 1/4" away from the engine.
Just throwing ideas out.
I think I may have figured out why my belt kept breaking/coming off.
I didn't get any pictures of what I did but will try and explain it for my own benefit later if it happens again.
I ended up using the laser pointer in a flash light because my laser level was too big in some of the places.
I cut a block of wood that would hold the flashlight tight and I taped it onto the flashlight with electrical tape. The block of wood is the same width as the pulley and has a "v" in it to help it sit on the pulley a little lower. I held this on the pulley and spun it around to see where the dot hit on the nearest pulley. I would then spin it around to see where it hit on the next pulley. The serpentine pulleys are grooved so it is pretty easy to see if the dot hits the same ridge or groove on all pulleys.
After about 20 seconds with the pointer it was easy to see two problems. First and biggest was the alternator was on crooked. I was able to see it easily by eye once I knew what I was looking for. And then I also was able to see my power steering pulley was slightly bent. It didn't move much but was off by a half a groove in a half turn. I found one at a salvage yard and replaced mine with that.
I still don't have everything perfect but was able to drive 45 mph yesterday and not loose the belt.
I will get everything a little more aligned when I am done with my on board accessories later this spring. I am in the process of converting a cs-144 alternator into a welder. I am also converting the AC compressor into an air compressor. Once I have both of those ready to use I will be fine tuning the pulleys. But since I keep taking them off and on I will wait on the final adjustment.
Good find Paul. Those things can be frustrating
I decided to post some pictures of my welder so far.
I bought a 100 amp three phase bridge rectifier from ebay. I mounted it to a used electrical box I acquired over the years and have been hoarding.
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/479...lboxinside.jpg
I used this surplus fuse holder to make my lugs to connect the large wires. (I had some 4 gauge s.o. cord that I was hording as well). The smaller wires are 10 awg thhn and are bolted to the rectifier with ring terminals.
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/2079/fuseholder.jpg
This is the modified lug that went on the box side. I used just the bottom part in the picture on the rectifier. It was a perfect fit.http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6695/lug2.jpg
Here it is waiting to get mounted into the Jeep.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/4667/assembled.jpg
I drew up a wiring diagram on a piece of paper and will be posting that as well after I test everything to be sure it is correct.
I didn't think to take pictures of the inside of the alternator while I had it apart. I can take it back apart and get some pictures if anyone wants to see it. That is if anyone asks before I get it mounted into my Jeep.
I plan to use one alternator as my alternator and also my welder. I will be wiring a switch in my dash that will disconnect the alternator from my trucks wiring when it is time to weld.
I think the Leak at your lower hose is the weep hole in the water pump, this could also be your overheating problem. It was funny reading your belt conundrum, I wish I could have saved you time if I read it a month ago, sorry. Getting brackets right is one of the hardest things to do IMHO. Good read though way to kill a night shift
The leak actually went away when I replaced the lower hose. And no more overheating because the fluid never gets low.Quote:
Originally Posted by m715monster
I ended up stretching a hose that "almost fit" over the pump.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/2788/hosestretch.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2...sestretch2.jpg
Well good, I guess that's arm chair wrenching for you. You got a nice rig hope mine looks that good someday!
Thanks. I've got quite a bit of work left to do but it is getting there.
I added this lock to my truck so I'd have some place to secure things. It will only keep the honest person honest but at least it will make someone work a little to get inhttp://img845.imageshack.us/img845/6900/locklc.jpgto it.
I still need to change the hardware on the bottom of the cover to safety hardware so a special wrench will be needed to unbolt the cover.
I've had a vibration in my truck since I first got it drive-able last summer. I thought it was because of the tires. And part of it was that.
At the end of last year I got some good used tires from George aka Flingarrows. My vibration was still there but not nearly as bad. AT 25 mph there was little to no vibration. At 40 it was extreme but by 45 it was bearable.
Tonight we went for a drive with the windshield down and could barely hear the engine but could hear a rattling between 38 and 40. We slowed down to 30 and couldn't hear it anymore.
When we got home I decided to check the front drive shaft for play. The u-joints were good but there was a very slight movement of the shaft.
I pulled the shaft and discovered the slip joint was off by one notch. The u-joints were not 180 degrees apart from each other. I disassembled the joint and turned it a notch so both yokes would sit flat on the driveway. The truck rides smooth now and is a lot quieter.
I probably need a new shaft now but will drive it for a while to see if I can live with it.
Good find Paul. Hopefully the vibrations will be gone
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Well I've put on a few miles since the drive shaft fix. The truck seems to drive much better. It is a lot quieter in the cab now and my mirrors are not vibrating to the point of making everything behind me blurry.
I can drive 45 effortlessly now. That is my self imposed top speed for my drive line.
I picked up a load of gravel after work on Friday. It was a yard+ of road gravel. The operator at the gravel company told me it was about 2800 pounds/yard and I was probably 3000-3200 pounds.
The truck handled it fine. The back end squatted a little. The steering felt a little light but it didn't feel unsafe.
I have finished installing my weldernator. It works well. I haven't taken any pictures of my first weld with it but plan to make a little video of the unit in action. Of course this diagram does not show where this ties in to the stock wiring but you get the general idea of how this part of the circuit works. It also does not reflect the external bridge rectifier. I didn't include that in the drawing to keep it easier to follow.
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4080/z5qy.jpg
Sorry for the poor image quality. I am not good at editing photo's and I don't have a scanner anymore.
With the switch in the up position the voltage regulator and battery connection are bypassed and battery voltage is sent directly to the field winding. The engine rpm then determines how much voltage is coming from the alternator.
With the switch in the down position the alternator gets it control from the regulator and the battery is connected to the alternator output.
I can and may put an electrical outlet on the output as well to power a drill or grinder when the switch is in the up position. The open circuit voltage of the alternator output gets over 100 volts quite easily when the engine is revved up.
This set up does not include any noise filtering or capacitor. I am building a filter for the power I am tapping off to power a C.B. radio.
My sister invited my family to her house for a cook out on the 4th. I decided it was a good day to drive the Jeep.
On the way there my son and I smelled something abnormal. My son noticed my voltage gauge fluctuating slightly. I turned my welder/charger switch to the center off position and watched the voltage drop to a constant battery voltage of about 13 volts. I left the switch off for the balance of the trip and the smell went away.
On the way home I tried turning the switch back to charge. It didn't seem to do anything so I turned it back off and left it off.
When I got home I tested the output of the alternator. I was getting about 30 volts at idle with the switch in the charge position. Looks like my voltage regulator failed closed so I was sending a full 12 volts to the field winding.
I also tested the disconnect relay. I am using an external starter relay for my battery disconnect. It has also failed but it failed in the open position so I am not getting voltage through it.
So now I am wondering if the relay failed because the voltage regulator failed or if the starter relay coil isn't capable of handling continuous duty?
Either way, I ended up putting my standard alternator back in until I sort out why my regulator failed. I do remember reading a long time ago that the external regulator is sensitive to being switched off under load.
On the 5th my son and I went to Silver Lake sand dunes. I was eager to see how the old jeep did in the sand. When we got in to the parking area and got the vehicles unloaded I started prepping my Jeep and my son got his quad ready.
We started for the ORV entrance to the dune area and ended up getting turned away at the check point. My son was missing a spark arrestor and I don't have a roll bar which is now mandatory.
We were both disappointed. I guess there have been some changes that I didn't keep up with at Silver Lake.
I wasn't going to give up that easy though. We walked over to David Allen Racing which is by the entrance to the park and bought a spark arrestor for my son's quad. We also bought a bracket to mount a dune flag on my GMC which is my tow vehicle.
I aired down the tires on my GMC to about ten pounds and figured out I get get almost everywhere in two wheel drive on the dunes if I stayed away from the big hills. In four wheel drive I could make the biggest hill with ease. My son drove his quad until he got a blister on his throttle hand.
After a fun day we headed back to the parking area and loaded up. I decided I would test the on board air I am building on my Jeep. I am not finished with it yet but thought I'd see if it worked manually. I turned it on and started pumping my tires on my truck.
I started on the first tire and before the tire was full my high pressure safety valve popped off some extra pressure. I kept going anyway. I should have stopped there but I didn't.
I pumped up two tires on my GMC and two tires on my Jeep because they were all within reach of the hose. Before I was completely done with the fourth tire my compressor seized. I ran it out of oil. I knew I should have stopped sooner but was kind of curious how durable the compressor will be.
So now I am without an on board welder or air all in the coarse of two days.
I anticipate the welder to be an easy fix. The compressor may be more of a struggle. I really want to figure out how to fit my Tecumseh compressor under the hood. I am also thinking maybe PTO powered compressor?
I will soon be replacing my current 6.2 with another used 6.2. I hope this one will last a little longer. I knew shortly after I installed the current engine that it was on it's last leg. It had a tick from the start and would drop from 40 psi cold oil pressure to about 5 when the engine got warm.
I spent last evening getting the Jasper remanufactured 6.2 engine on a stand and getting it started. It had a solid 40 psi oil pressure at idle and would jump to around 70 when I revved it up. The previous owner didn't know how many miles the engine had but did say the odometer in the panel van it came out of had 158k on it. I am assuming that means this engine likely has fewer than 158k. The engine has some rust on it but isn't an oily mess like the one I'm pulling out.
This leaves me a little torn. Should I pull the covers and clean and paint them for asthetics and risk creating a leak or do I install it as is and let it look old and rusty?
Also I am thinking about leaving the current v-belt system the Jasper engine came with rather than swapping the serpentine belt system onto it. The v-belt system may make it easier to install the techumseh AC compressor I have for use as an air compressor.
And finally I am starting to think about automating the glow plugs. I have several of the glow plug relays now and am thinking it may be nice to not have to think about how long I manually fire the glow plugs in colder weather. I need to find a wiring diagram for the GM glow plug relay to get it working. Anyone here have any suggestions?
And if there are any diesel experts out there reading this when I start the engine on the stand I get a tremendous amount of smoke. This by itself doesn't bother me so much. The previous owner said this engine sat for about a year in his garage. I'm thinking I may need to get it up to operating temperature a few times to get it to clear up. But what does bother me a little more is this engine doesn't seem to run smooth like the worn out engine I am replacing. If I have a bad injector how will I determine which cylinder it's in? I'm getting lots of smoke from both sides.
I went ahead and pulled the valve covers on the 6.2 I put in the M715. Of course, that means pulling the intake and injector lines. Depending on what year you look up, there is no valve cover gasket. Just silicone. I ended up with no oil leaks and only 2 or 3 injector line leaks. I was pleased with that. A crow foot socket and a very long extension from the back of the valley got those bottom two injector lines at the pump to stop leaking.
I did a rear main seal while I had the engine out as well. I think it was worth my time and effort.
The 1988 Chevy glow plug controller/relay is what I have on my M715 and what I converted the Bomber over to. I love it. 4 wires, super easy and it works every time without me thinking it through. I think I did a big write up about them either in my conversion thread or another with part numbers and such. I picked up a used controller on Ebay last week for $20 to my door for a spare.
What color smoke, blue or black? Black is fuel and should go away after the first blast of the engine running. Blue could stick around for hours. It could be oil or non burned fuel. RED, Colton's M1009 has always blown blue on start up and stayed blowing some blue all the time hot or cold out. We put new glow plugs in a few weeks ago and haven't seen any smoke of any color at any time since. It starts in less than a second hot or cold every time now too.
Did you run a fuel return line for your test? If not, that would make it blow black and not run very good or very long.
I hated the V belts for the last 2 or 3 years. Now that I have new Gates belts on every truck and a spare set of Gates belts in each truck. I am ok with them. Every few months I tighten them up as a matter of course and still get a squeal. I treat it as a good time to look everything over. Nothing but Gates has lasted more than 4 months for me. The serpentine is a much better system.
I have to push the CO2 air system instead of OBA. I have done both and like CO2 by far better.
Thanks Tim.
Yes I remember reading about your glow plug write up but don't remember seeing a diagram that showed how it was wired up.
To be honest I've not searched anywhere to see how easy the information is to find about the 4 wire relay. I have several of those relays now but only one plug that will fit it.
Now just seems like a good time to incorporate that into my truck.
I know I should do the valve covers and oil pan at least. I really do want to but it is just too cold here in my garage this time of year. I don't really have anywhere to paint the stuff right now.
I'd call the smoke I'm getting more white than blue. I put a jerry can of diesel below the lift pump and ran the return line back to the jerry can while I ran it on the stand.
My current engine that I'm replacing blows the same color smoke when it's cold but clears up as it warms up. It had new glow plugs last winter/spring. It didn't smoke at all really this past summer but is smoking pretty good now when I can get it started. I'm planning on re-using the glow plugs from the current engine in the replacement.
I only have one battery in the truck and when it gets too cold it doesn't have enough oomph to run the glow plugs and then crank the engine. I need to jump it and also use my big booster/charger to give it enough juice to fire off.
The Jasper engine came with the gear reduction starter. I was able to start it on the stand with just my M715 battery. It is a 1000cca battery.
I read your co2 write up too. I actually looked around on Craigslist here for a while to see if I could find a tank on the cheap but never followed through with doing the co2. I have an air horn on my M715 and decided the onboard air would be easier to use for that anyway.
I've been kicking around the idea of doing an electric air compressor that can run off the 3 phase AC power coming out of my weldernator. I can tap the AC before it hits my external rectifier and use that but haven't verified yet what frequency I'm actually making at what rpm.
Just found this. Does this look right for the 4 pin glow plug relay?
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/2591/lj77.jpg
Yes, that is the wiring.
B-starter solenoid hot when starting
C-Indicator light
D-12V on with switch
E- ground
The factory mounted them on the drivers side head at the rear in the valley. Basically, that water port which is blocked off had studs instead of bolts and the relay goes on those studs.
It is supposed to not turn on the glow plugs below 124˚ or so coolant temperature. Since it doesn't touch the coolant, they have it set lower. My M715 unit is on the engine as described above. It comes on anytime a warmed up engine has been off more than 30 minutes and it is at least 60˚ outside. I have it mounted to the inner fender on the Bomber. It comes on every single time the engine is started no matter how long it has been off unless it is over 85˚ outside . Both start every time in less than a second of cranking hot or cold.
I am really liking the CO2 more and more. I have the fixed 150 psi regulator, bought a hose from power tank, and still haven't run my first 20 pound tank dry. I used it yesterday on my trailer tires and a K5 I picked up for my class and today to run an impact while doing some porch repairs around the house. I probably would have been just fine with the much easier to mount and carry around 15 pound bottle and if kept to just tires off road, a 10 pounder. 20 pounds is the only size my local gas company keeps in stock though so that is what I have.
Well a quick update on where this is now.
I put an ad on Craigslist looking for someone to swap my bad 6.2 for my Jasper 6.2. I had someone in a shop offer to do it for me pretty cheap. I basically just had him do the heavy lifting part of it. I removed the front clip to make it easy for him.
I dropped the truck off to him last Saturday and picked it up on Friday. He would have had it done in a day but I told him I couldn't get back to pick it up until Friday anyway.
He noticed some differences in the engines during the swap so he looked up the block casting number. It turns out the engine should be a 6.5.
The casting number is 12552929. The date code looks like C132. From what I can find on-line this is a naturally aspirated 6.5 built March 13, 1992.
I have mixed feeling about this. On the one hand it may be nice to have a few more horse power. On the other hand I will likely just burn more fuel and not see much advantage of more horse power. The worn out 6.2 moved the truck just fine when it was in there.
I'm really thinking hard now about adding a turbo. I really liked the 6.2 but now I'm wondering if I'd like the 6.5 with a turbo even better...?
I've got the truck back in my garage and am starting to put it back together. I was planning on swapping the oil pan because the 6.2 had a painted pan that matched the truck. When I went to put it on the new engine I noticed the pans are different. Turns out the newer engine has a one piece rear main seal and uses a pan with a bigger radius in the back. My old pan was too small.
I guess I'll be painting some engine stuff this spring when it is warm enough.
The plot thickens. I'm not really sure what engine I have now. According to the plaque my son found on the engine it is a 6.2.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/600/zyiz.jpg
Anyone know how to tell the difference between a 6.2 and a 6.5 without pulling the heads?
From what I can find (not to say my search skills are good) the casting number is 6.5 only. Would Jasper have resleeved the engine and made it a 6.2?
Check this link. Maybe it will help.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...2-6-5-a-2.html
Well I've been out braving the cold and finally got the Jasper engine fired up in the M715.
I did a test start on the engine stand when I first got it so I knew it ran. What I didn't do is run it up to temperature to be sure it ran good. It doesn't...
So I'm pretty disappointed right now.
I have great oil pressure when the engine is cold. But when the engine gets up to temperature it drops to a little less than 10 at idle. It also seems to surge while it sits and idles. If left unattended it will sometimes die while it surges then winds down.
My eyes are burning as I type this. If it were a gasoline engine I would say it's running way rich.
The previous owner did tell me the engine sat for a year before I bought it. I figured it would need to get used a while to get it running good but this one just doesn't seem to run that good at any RMP. It starts super hard and never really runs smooth for very long.
I'm planning on swapping the injection pump from my other engine to see if some of the symptoms are caused by this pump. When I save up enough money I will be rebuilding both the IP and my other engine.
I love the diesel in the truck but am tired of nursing along a worn out engine.
Anyone have any thoughts as to why my diesel might be running rough?
Hey Paul. I would make sure that the blow by is not pressurizing the cooling system. If that is good, then I would be looking at injectors or pump. If it starts fairly easy, I would look at the injectors. You can try cracking open each line at the injector. If they get worse, that injector is probably not the problem. When you get to the one that doesn't change the idle, that could be the culprit.
I am no diesel expert, that is why I haven't chimed in too much. But hopefully this will help.
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Thanks George. Maybe a silly question to those who know but how can I tell if blow by is pressurizing the cooling system and not the water pump? Will I see smoke coming out of the radiator or will the coolant get discolored?
Another thing I forgot to mention is a couple times yesterday while it was taking a long to to start when it finally did start I could hold my foot to the floor and the engine wouldn't rev up for a while. That's what makes me suspect the IP is not working properly.