Well, progress is slow due to a move.
I should have it at my new place this weekend then I'll start plugging away. Thx for checkin in
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Well, progress is slow due to a move.
I should have it at my new place this weekend then I'll start plugging away. Thx for checkin in
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
Good deal
Finally have it moved to my new place and will start working on it again. Unfortunately I'm outside so progress will be weather permitting.
I'm still lining up the drivetrain and it looks like the tranny mount is going to be fairly easy. I basically need a piece of angle iron that I can bolt right on the original frame brackets and then have the original Dodge mount bolt to that.
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ancient thread..anything still going on with this truck/concept?
mike W
******
Well, not much to report on, just need the motization to plug away at motor. Thx for checking in, I'm still around
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Hey guys, raising this thread from the dead, I'm back at it.
Its going to be slow but I'm at least checking off the list.
Still finalizing the motor and tranny mounts.
Found the source of an oil leak that nicely preserved the passenger side of the motor. It's an 93 with a heat exchanger for the auto. The heat exchanged will be removed, appears he ran it without it connected for years anyway.
Just trying to finish up stuff from last time and keep plugging away.
As long as ur staying with it. :)
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Good deal, looking forward to seeing updates again
Glad to hear you are still at it. Can't wait to see this thing finished.
Hey guys, thanks for checking this out. Everyone seems to really like this project. Instead of detailing the build in the thread I'm trying out this video blog thing. It's new to me and I made some mistakes like calling it a M715 and covering the mic with a finger, doh! I'll do a step by step for those interested in the cummins swap and get some ideas on those who have done them before. Let me know what you think. Also let me know of any good software to do video editing.
I havent seen many use the dodge crossmember but it gives you placement of motor mounts while keeping support to the frame. The problem is that it takes up space above the front dif requiring a spring over. I was planning on doing this anyway to fit the tires I want, also matching the 4.56 gears. It wasn't clear in the video but that goofy template saved me a bunch of time. I first marked the holes on the inside of the frame with the crossmember in place. After removing it, I drilled those out. I was an a lousy position to them drill the outer holes so I made the template to drill on the outside of the frame. I then had much better leverage to bang them out quickly. It's not finished as I have the holes all at 3/8's and need to bore them out to 1/2".
Anyway, here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WofN5knGyoQ
Another update. This time I'm mocking up fitting the intercooler here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3VtDNXEwso
I've also pressure washed the motor, grill, valance and fenders but dont mind the rust, I'm working on it.
One of the best things jeep did to the exterior of any that rolled out of Toledo was the rhino grill (IMO).
I always wanted one for my ol' wagoneer and cherokee but sold them before I got around to it. Theres certain things this truck just tells me to do, like keep the air force paint and clean off the rhino grill. Not military but might look more so if I can find a brush guard.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...331_145219.jpg
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Painted the engine a "cast iron" enamel that ended up being a lighter color than the original and more of a metallic. It should be be light enough if I have to chase any oil leaks, I like it.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...402_161456.jpg
I also did the killer dowel pin, more here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfY2PnBJCw
I have the intercooler finally in. I'm not sure I've seen most folks here use the 1st gen intercooler and in this vid you can see why. It's really too wide to fit the black out lights and takes some work to get in there. I had to grind off the 4 mounting tabs for the AC condenser, which is ok because that's going between the rad and intercooler. Had to do some grinding on the nut under the post the hood lines up on (what ever you call it). Also it's tight within the wheelwells as shown in the previous vid. Anyway, it's just wanted to share this for reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8EEsndg_NA
Also in taking the fenders apart you can see where the rust problems occur. They assembled the fenders then painted. Obviously the metal between the fender and body and fenders and wheelwells is bare rusting sheetmetal, not good.
I'm glad to see this thing is back on the way to getting done! There is a 725 that is fifteen miles away from me that hasn't been driven in 5 years and the body is rust free and PERFECT and if I can ever get ahold of the guy I will have to buy this thing! These things are sweet!
Hey Chris, go for it. With the enclosed cab and body built by Mark Body Co in Mi they're in pretty good shape usually. If toledo made the box different story.Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS UNGER
How is your cummins running? Whats your impressions of the swap?
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I have put around 15k miles on mine and is running great. My 5 speed was questionable when I did the swap and now it needs to be rebuild but so far so good. The noise in the cab gets a little old but when the top is off its great!
Ive been doing some small stuff recently.
I wanted to remove a couple from leaves from the spring pack before I do the tranny crossmember.
Here from the bottom, leaf 1 and 3 are outing keeping the retainer on #2.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...425_173459.jpg
Tomorrow I'll clean and paint the dana 60
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Cleaned and painted (POR15) the front D60. Here's a little before and after.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...8695826356.jpg
Here's the difference with the leaves removed. It lowered 2", notice the space above the top of the tire and frame in the top "before" pic. This seems to have leveled out nicely.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...LeafBefAft.jpg
Looking good, the weather is finally turning so it will be nice to get some wrenching done.
Pulled the 14bolt and painted that with POR15. The axles I should have painted a long time ago but never had the time when I was renting the shop. Didnt get a before pic but just less rust to look at.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...508_181934.jpg
Speaking of which, I did my floor pans as well. You can see someone notched square hole to let water out. That my thoughts exactly, it's a jeep it's going to leak, just give it somewhere to go so it does rust out the floors.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...508_181726.jpg
Oh so the keys to the left of the steering wheel, I'm still trying to figure one starts this thing!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther
Pick. Key, any key
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Just kidding bout the keys...
So I had some fun painting the rims. Theses are just rollers but I'm trying to make the truck more presentable because there are new owners to the apartment I'm renting. Hopefully they won't frown on this project. This is how it sits.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...518_105946.jpg
Also, in the video blog I show the air box, axles and beginnings of the trans mount.
Found a good match OD rattle can for the floor pans and a few other things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liXak2E_n70
Looking good, did you get it running yet?
No man, I'm trying. The battery I have didnt have enough juice when I tried to fire it up
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Man seeing this thread up and runnin again is givin me the itch to start on my 725/6bt project again.
Btw, for what its worth, i have never had a 6bt start with just one battery, unless is was one of those 200# monster equipment batteries.
That would be great, I was wondering if you gave up on it. Looks like a great build and you did an awesome job on the 4bt wagoneer. You've already worked out the details I'm still putting together in the GW. If I remember you have 6bt/nv4500/np205 and cucv axles spring under front?Quote:
Originally Posted by loosewrenchcowboy
For anyone doing a swap, some good resource materials can be had by registering the ESN with Cummins (free):
https://quickserve.cummins.com/
Also, some companies have scanned shop manuals on CD. These are pdf files you can put on a tablet, very helpful. Here's one for 93, just make sure it's the 150-250 and not the gas only 50 ram.
http://www.autobooksbishko.com/Items...ual/13099.html
One battery will start that thing but make sure you have good ground straps grounding cab,frame and engine all together.
If you've noticed the other thread on the air compressor generator set up it's running but I still haven't been able to fire the diesel up. Anyway, I'll have at it another day.
In the meantime here's the motor that actually runs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55sgd5AcX24
And the link to the thread if you missed it.
http://m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=26234
Are you going to chop off the extra spring perch on your 14 bolt? or just leave it there?
Behemoth, that's a cool username. I really don't have a reason to cut the perch, could easy enough if it's in the way of the shock mount. The axles were a set from a cucv, back several pages you'll notice the difference in spring perch width both front and rear, you can see how I had to widened them.
Forgot how much I missed that smell guys! Got her fired up today.
The gauge of the stock battery cable just isn't cutting it for the cummins. What did the job was using the thicker gauge and battery up front (along with the cable to the rear batteries). Generator also came in handy but thare she blows!!!
http://youtu.be/3GmZVAU1jyk
Thanks,
BEHEMOTH is what I'm calling my truck. It is a good description of our trucks.
If the spring perches aren't in the way I would leave them for now. Learn from my mistake. After I put on new spring perches on my 14bolt and D60 to match the spring location, I realized later that the tires I'm planning to put on would rub on the leaf springs during turns. So, I relocated the leaf spring mounts and found where I moved the springs to was where the original perch mounts were. I could kick myself.
Sure is. To add a little history, the word comes from old testament Hebrew for the word "beast", often used as "beast of the field", that certainly describes our trucks. Then in the book of Job chapter 40 is an animal called "behemoth" that sounds like a description of a dinosaur, some might say our trucks are dinosaurs, lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BEHEMOTH
So the power and air systems are coming along if you see the "storage box" thread. Next up will be solar. I got a roof rack from a wrangler that I'll mount the solar panel(s) too.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...622_162825.jpg
I'm looking at this Renogy 100 watt kit, thoughts?
http://www.renogy-store.com/100W-Mon...tarter100d.htm
Also, I bought a Lokar shifter from Kamikaze12volts that I'm waiting to come from Canada, thanks again man! Geez it was 4 years ago we started on a deal for that shifter.
Still collecting parts as I go, more to come.
Your truck is looking great. If I had planned everything out I would have gone 6BT. I like the thought of off road camping. I want to eventually take mine to Colorado and do some higher elevation off road camping. Your setup would perfect. Any predictions on when you might have it road worthy?
Getting the doner truck was the key for this build. Sure I'm stuck with the a518 when I'd like to have the nv4500, that means I have to keep the pcm for shifting.
One thing I forgot to mention is wiring, I'm going into each wire taking what I don't need in the engine compartment. Id also like to retro the AC so the computer and wiring is kept for that as well. My other challenge is $. This is a budget build. I used to spent in 2 months what I have in the whole project, just have to be patient, look for deals. Hard to tell when I can have it on the road, took a break for while but sheesh, I started before you and yours looks great and runs!
I love the truck I'm in it right now, have loud neighbors partying on the weekend so I crash in the truck, lol
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The solar kit looks like the best deal out there.
Monocrystalline is the way to go, and thats the black looking cells that you chose.
Here is the same kit you linked, but its 10 bucks cheaper and free shipping.
It comes from Baton Rouge, Louisiana,.. so shipping might be quicker too.
These panels can be interconnected in the future, and they have the standard connector fittings, that most panels have today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271211938333?lpid=82
I have to say , I like how they stress using fuses in multiple places, and their diagrams are excellent.
https://cdn3.volusion.com/bfaks.zsgq...jpg?1404664325
On the roof rack, until you get more panels, leave yourself some room on the rack to store other stuff, and when you get some additional panels... just rearrange them then.
Excellent find.
Good shopping skills.
The 30 amp charge controller that comes n the kit, beats all the competition out there, as most only offer a 10 amp in their kit for the same or usually higher prices.
25 year output warranty...
The best out there is 30 years...
I dont think you can go wrong with this system.
The only thing I would do, is use larger cables to interconnect Your battery bank, and the cables going to the inverter, than you think you need.
It will cut down on the power line loss, and allow you to expand your bank AND inverter in the future, using the same interconnects.
They recommend 4 gauge... to the inverter
Go at least 1/0.
MCM cable would be overkill for now, but on the battery bank 3/0 would not be for interconnecting the batts...
If you get this setup... with your generator /air pump / lawnmower engine rig...
Your next purchase will be more batteries... and go from the 3 you have to 6.
This will last you a lifetime. ( besides x class solar flares or emp's ... lol )
Awesome project and immediately tangible results.
Good eye Blitz, there's another without the brackets on ebay for $154. That's what I'll probably go with but I'm glad you like it. What I will call them and ask is if the standard set 12.5 volts can be adjusted and increased with the charge controller. Ideally it would go up to 14. That charge controller is probably a cheap starter, eventually with more panels it would be upgraded to mmpt or whatever the standard is.
The rack is 71" long and 52" wide. I'm glad to have it to protect the panels from trees and branches on the trail.
I will redo the wiring. Right now the starter battery is temporarily up front to start the cummins. I will move it in the box with others once I go to thicker gauge.
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just noticed something about the charge controller...
You would need to dedicate the battery bank to the system, and not use one of the batteries for the starting/ run engine battery.
here is a little note they put at the bottom of the specs on the charge controller:
quote:
Please Note: These are Positive Ground Controllers. If grounding is necessary, it must be completed on the positive line. If the controller is to be used on a vehicle which has battery negative on the chassis, loads connected to the controller must not have an electrical connection to the vehicle body.
end quote.
https://www.renogy-store.com/30-amp-...ctrl-pwm30.htm
float the ground on your battery bank, and just dont tie the neg post of any of the batteries ( in your off grid bank ) to the vehicle chassis.
Or any loads. like 110 volt motors grounded to the vehicle.