Axles that can be swapped in place of the stock axles

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Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate

I thought a lot of those early Ford axles were actually D50s... Am I wrong?

...Oh Good call on the T-Case @ray steadward. If we go this direction that will change too. I will likely do a 3 speed Atlas.

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Actually the 'modern' 99+ superduty axles are the ones that can be decieving and actually be a Dana 50 vs. a Dana 60 without any real good outward appearaince indicators.

1987-1994... if it has kingpins... its a Dana 60...

(Dana 50 wasn't even around yet)

F350's had dana 60 kingpins.... F250's had TTB axles (which are easily identifiable)

If you want to lose some time and learn the identifiers... Here is the front axle Dana 60 bible...

Utilize this/save it/bookmark it... this will answer 99.9% of all your Dana 60 questions.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

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Originally Posted by venominjected

Actually the 'modern' 99+ superduty axles are the ones that can be decieving and actually be a Dana 50 vs. a Dana 60 without any real good outward appearaince indicators.

1987-1994... if it has kingpins... its a Dana 60...

(Dana 50 wasn't even around yet)

F350's had dana 60 kingpins.... F250's had TTB axles (which are easily identifiable)

If you want to lose some time and learn the identifiers... Here is the front axle Dana 60 bible...

Utilize this/save it/bookmark it... this will answer 99.9% of all your Dana 60 questions.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

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Awesome, Thanks... I had a 2001 F250 that had a D50... I didn't even know until I pulled the cover. :facepalm:

The only other time I was looking at these axles was for a JK swap. In this case the ball-joint was desired. The guy I was helping had cracked two king-pin knuckles in another rig and wanted the stronger ball joint knuckle (he then just carried spare ball joints and the tools) ...talk about a crappy trail fix!

I must say, one of my favorite things about new projects is the learning!

Anyone swapped a D80 from a Dodge out back? I got myself an early 80’s Chevy kingpin front D60 and a 14 bolt drum rear to swap under my truck. The D60 is going to work great up front (I’m going to move the springs under the frame rails), but the 14 bolt is too narrow for out back (I don’t want to move the springs under the frame rails out back because it will add way more lift than I want - I just want spring over up front and shackle flip out back). I found a D80 out of a 99 Dodge 2500. It’s got 4.10’s to match my front, disc brakes, it’s 8x6.5 to match the front, 72” WMS to WMS (almost identical to the original 70), and all I need to do is weld new spring perches on it (but there’s tons of room). Anyone ever throw one of these under their rig?...


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I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents here in general for what has worked for me in the past...

About 15 years ago I did a total axle/drivetrain swap on my previous M715. Here's what axles worked for me:

1990 dodge 1 ton truck, srw. I believe they were Dana 60 axles front and rear.

I can not recall the wms measurement, but both axles fit between the m715 springs with no modfications other than new perches. I did not have to remove the rear drums, and I did a shackle flip in the rear with 2 inch lift blocks, then removed a couple leafs.

The front I did a spring over. I don't recall it being too difficult. The dodge Dana 60 came with king pins which allowed me to use an aftermarket raised steering arm. I think I even used the m715 tie rod and drag link mated to a wagoneer power steering box. The steering geometry was spot on perfect. I later added a track bar to help with death wobble I was getting running 37 inch tires. I also removed several leafs from the springs.

The front drive shaft was the biggest issue. It was a very steep angle and fairly short distance. I had a custom high angle one built by Tom Woods, which worked perfect. I also had a custom one built for the rear.

I ended up ordering custom 16.5 x10 (to fit used hummer tires) wheels from marsh. The back spacing was only like 2 inches or somthing like that- they were very offset to clear the front springs at full steer with 37 inch tires. I wonder if that's what contributed to the death wobble (which was virtually eliminated with the track bar- at the expense of some articulation)

All in all the conversion worked pretty well. I did some towing and moderate off roading with it, as well as daily driver.

As an added bonus I used the dodge 360, TF727 transmission (with overdrive) and mated NP205 transfer case from the same truck, which made for a very inexpensive, somewhat easy, and effective conversion.

My biggest gripe with the whole conversion was the TF727 transmission did not have a torque converter lock up, which led to pretty high transmission temps when running on the highway, in 4th gear, with 37 inch tires.

Can anybody confirm if the GMC Savana or Chevy Express 3500 van axle should be a SRW or DRW? There are a lot on ebay, some are passenger van/cargo vans SRW and some are cutaway DRW. They're listed as a 9.5" ring gear and most are 3.42 or 3.73 gear ratio. I was hoping for more like 4.11 or 4.56. Anybody done this and want to tell us what year and model you used?

If they are 9.5 I think that is the small semifloat 14 bolt.....Not sure what widths those are...

Just finished reading this thread, lots of good information, and I think it answered my questions. I'm going to install the 87k30 dana 60 and 14 bolt, because I have them handy!
Front axel
78-95 Chevy Dodge dana 60 1 ton single axel or dually (older axels req disk conv.
77-97 Ford kingpin f350 (other years have diff. location issues)
CUCV
HUMVE
Rear axel
78-05 Chevy Dodge 14 bolt 3/4 & 1ton(disk break conv. as required, move caliper under leaf or install coilover or use a block spacer to get clearance and change location of one shock mount)
78-05 ford 250 350 (same issues as chevy dodge)
? Chevy Express van
CUCV
HUMVEE.
any other options? There are lots of details in every post and I encourage you to read them all. Thank you for the information.

I have read and read this thread and its great info although I still have a question.
I am looking at a 2001 14 bolt with factory discs on it. WMS is supposedly 67.5 and I could add spacers to get the wheel out a bit BUT my question is does anyone know if a disc brake factory 3/4 ton 14 bolt with the calipers clocked under will give me enough space to weld in new perches and use my factory spring mount locations?

I am shopping for axles for my m725. After reading all of this thread, I am still confused. What would be the easiest swap. I will be running a Chevy small block with the fact 4 speed. From what I can tell, a chevy van 3500 drw is best for back. I’m thinking for the front, 96 Ford F-350. Both 4.10. I do not want to go spring over. Any input? Please help. Thanks

Hey Stellmach thanks for all of the information, would a early 2000s Ford F-350 front axel work?
If not it does not work why not?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Swampthang

They used a '85-'96 Ford dual rear wheel highpinion D-60 front axle and it is a direct spring-over bolt in for our trucks. Measuring at 77" + or - it works well with surplus Humvee wheels on M trucks..

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Can someone help me understand what the OP means by dual rear wheel high pinion d-60 front axle? Is that a front wheel dually? I bought a d70 thinking it was the right size (GMC 3500 ) but it's only 71 wms to wms. So I'm trying to find the right solution for the frontend assembly and am too inexperienced here to follow the terminology. Appreciate the help!