Think it will fit in a USPS Flat Rate box???????Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
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Think it will fit in a USPS Flat Rate box???????Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
New steering parts ordered yesterday from Summit should have them on Monday. U-joint at the box, collapsible shaft and u-joint/vibration reducer on top at the column.
Will just have to turn the column shaft from 3/4" round to 3/4" DD like Brent showed in his post.
New hoses and I can mark power steering off the list. :D
Show some pictures and give me some summit numbers for the parts you ordered. I am getting ready to swap a 84 GW box into mine.
The later boxes (mine is out of a 72) have a different size/spline count. I will post mine when I am finished. For the later P/S box look at Brent's thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=12635
Thanks. I am working today on putting my steering box in.
Got the clutch master cylinder mounted. It attaches to the pedal at a bolt I welded on. Put a stop on the floor so it does not max out.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7910/dscn3784.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/194/dscn3783.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7920/dscn3782.jpg
Once the p/s hoses get mounted and I solve my crank pulley issue, I will be ready for a test run of the motor.
Getting close:D
Got the steering parts last night. They will fit my application once I turn the stock column into a 3/4" DD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
My Summit part numbers are as follows:
BRG-014940 / U-joint / 3/4DD x 13/16-36 spline
BRG-034952 / U-joint & dampener / 3/4DD x 1DD
BRG-450024 / Collapsible shaft / 3/4DD x 1DD
Will post a pic when fininshed (hopefully tonight).
Pullies are on, belts are on, radiator is in, hoses are on.:D
P/S hoses, a few brake lines and a little wiring and she should be done. Hope to start her this weekend. Getting a little nervous now :eek:
I might be able to make it late Saturday afternoon or eve?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
I will be around all weekend. No plans.
Got a visit from Fisherman today in the rolling work of art that is his truck. Even got to ride around in it a bit.:D
Just the inspiration I needed to get me back on track and finish mine - thanks Fish.
IT RUNS!!!!!! After some fiddling with the spark plug wires, she fired right up.
Fisherman, Kaiserjeeps and Saxon were there to witness and lend assistance. Thanks guys.
The end of the build is near. I am ready to be done building and get to driving. :D
i hear that.
what a coincidence. i fired mine for the first time today as well.
good job trenton
Congrats!
Thanks guys. This is my first ever motor swap. Did it mostly solo with assistance from Fisherman (thanks Todd) and tech assistance from folks here.
WAY more work than I anticipated.:rolleyes:
Biggest holdup has been cashflow. My advice to anyone would be to sock away 3x what you think it will cost. Nothing worse than having to wait until payday to buy the part that is stopping progress.:mad:
Would I do it again? Today I would say no. Couple months from now when I have forgotten most of it and the cuts / scrapes have healed, I will prob say something different.
Congrats! Always nice to finish a big project.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
And I sort of laughed a little when I read the above line. I can't tell you how many times I've heard people say: "I'll get an XYZ truck/car and just drop a new engine in." Until you've actually done it, you have no idea what the scope of it can be. Still though, it is nice to have it just like you want it.
We would love, love to see some video of it.
It wasn't that hard Trenton, that was the easiest swap IMO. I'm sure you will be happier now. Just think it's almost driveable.
Putting the motor in was easy. Its all the little details that take time to work out.Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman
I could have made it easier too :rolleyes:
I have been trying to upload a video for about 45 minutes now. I'll post it when it is done. Trenton you say you don't know if you would do it again. I wanted to say that your truck looks fantastic. The motor especially. Your efforts show.
Wait till you drive it:).
Thank you for the parts off the J truck. My waggie thanks you.
Here you go. This is the first start up after getting the ignition squared away.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...h_MVI_2994.jpg
Ahhh...the pretty music. That is k/A!!!!!
Great truck Trenton, nice vids Al. I recognized another M truck in there, also looks a lot like my shop.
Both your shops were way to clean.:D
Truck is back together. All the bodywork back on. Brakes adjusted and wheels back on.
Just need some time to mess with adjusting the clutch. Prob need to bleed it again too.
does that mean i win? i got mine moving under its own power yesterday. i think you got me since you drove yours before the engine swap
Ryan
Yep, you win. I just made two steps back this week. Clutch is binding. Had to pull the tranny.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanroo
Also, one of my axles has developed a nasty leak and puked its fluild on the ground.
Nothing will happen until next week.
:whiteflag:
its always something. i filled my radiator up for the first time and it started leaking with no pressure. i know it was good before because i pullled it from a running truck a few years ago, and it never leaked.
sounds like its time for the CUCV axle swap. never mind filling that old one up.
i am looking forward to making it out to the PNW sometime and wheeling with all you guys, so make sure that rig is ready
Ryan
Plan for the weekend is to get the flywheel/clutch issue resolved and the axle sealed.
If I am not on the road by Monday I am lighting it on fire. :flamethrow:
Dang it!!!!! Cannot get the clutch to release. Pulled the tranny, took the clutch apart - nothing amiss. Have bleed the clutch three or four times. Have a feeling that I am just not getting the air out.:mad:
Wishing I had done a linkage at this point. So close to tearing out the hydro and building one.
I know this might sound like a dumb question, but you did put the clutch disc in the right way didn't you?
If its in backward it will never release.
Also, check the pilot bushing/bearing. If it is too tight or locked, the clutch won't release either.
Did you adjust in some free play between the disc and throw out bearing? You need to have a little, and a return spring to pull the throw out bearing away from the disc.?
Clutch disk is in the right way. Double checked when I tore it apart.
Pilot fits fine and throwout is moving fine.
It has got to be a travel issue - even though it appears that the arm is moving far enough. I would think that if there was air in the system it would travel until it had a lot of pressure then the air would compress rather than move the arm any farther.
Just my theory. Need to find a way to pressure bleed it backwards into the master. Think the bleeder tool I borrowed from a buddy can do that. Need to look at it again.
You should be able to figure out how much travel you need when you look at the throw out bearing movement front to back. PLay with the clutch fork on the bearing so you have an idea as to how much throw you need. The hydraulic slave will push as far as you can compress the rod into the slave. You may have a bad master or slave too. Once it is bled properly it is very firm and positive clutch pedal to slave throw. You will probably have to adjust your rod from your slave to the clutch fork to get things to work correctly. I also built in an adjustment for how much fluid my clutch pedal rod to master cylinder as well. Two adjustments was better than one for me.
are all of your parts from a matched source?
i used a Gm slave master and clutch fork all designed for one another, and all i had to do was plug it in and go. outside of modifying the pedal to master rod length and making sure it had adequate throw it was pretty much a no brainer.
if you are trying to bleed it, i know the procedure for the GM set up i use is to completely unbolt the slave and push the piston in 5mm over and over. it works pretty well. not sure if that fits your application though
Ryan
Now I am sure its not an issue with the slave/master. :mad:
I manually pulled the arm and the clutch will not disengage. I can peak in and the pressure plate springs are being compressed - the friction disc wont release. I just can't figure out why. The clutch disc, pp, throwout and pilot were all from a matched kit.
Anyone want a T98/18 hybrid with AMC bellhousing??? Wishing I went with an auto right now.
The slave cylinder isn't pushing the diaphragm fingers in too far is it? So far that they are grabbing the center of the clutch disc?
Just a thought. Or is it possible you got a bad clutch pressure plate. I had one in a Chevy 1/2 ton once that did a similar thing and it was a defect in the pressure plate. Brand new at that.
Try cranking it in 4th gear with the clutch pedal pushed in, e-brake on, or maybe chained to tree or something -- just to see if you have any slippage at all.
This could confirm what Randy is talking about.
Sounds like you pushed things too far inwards. Is it a 3 finger clutch or Multiple fingers? 3 fingered clutches are problematic.
Its the 3 finger style. I have run out of explainations at this point. Only thing I can think is that some/all of the parts are defective.
May have to pony up and get a different brand from a different place and see if that solves it.
REALLY not looking forward to pulling the trans AGAIN :hairpull:
Anyone wanna come help this weekend? wink wink