Been seeing the weather reports from down your way. Looks like you guys are getting hammered with the heat. Be careful in that stuff. Easy to dehydrate and overexert yourself.
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Been seeing the weather reports from down your way. Looks like you guys are getting hammered with the heat. Be careful in that stuff. Easy to dehydrate and overexert yourself.
It is 104 outside my class right now and with the door open, 9 big fans blowing it is only 99 inside here at my desk. Almost cold out really. We did manage to lower the radiator some more the last hour or so:
[IMG]http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9...rfitfrontv.jpg[/IMG]
We can go another inch if needed, but I want to get the steering box on first. Bringing the hood in would probably be a good idea as well. I have my M715 in the class today to bring in the steering box, but I didn't feel like pulling that hood to test fit.
So what is the status of the build?
Nice rig.
Slow is the current status. The welding class is slow in getting cut metal for the front body mounts to us, the fiscal year ends this month and class doesn't happen every day all day, all of us teachers need to have about 90 hours of training each year. We have been doing that most of this month so far. Which means if I am in class, I am probably watching somebody elses students so we can't get anything done. Then, some of my students have been released, paroled or transferred elsewhere. This week, we are trying to make a starter to work on the other engine to see if it will fire up. 3 different starters, motors and such will hopefully make one that works, fits that engine and doesn't destroy the known good one for the engine in the truck. that kind of thing takes time.
Really coming along on this one.
It's too bad about the SAE adapter preventing the use of the 3053.
I am using that very adapter on my build, but am going to run the Allison, with a 4BT, so moving the engine forward is not nearly the same problem for me.
It is definitely going to be about 2-3 inches forward of what the GM adapter I had would have allowed, but with the 4BT, it really isn't a problem.
In any case, it looks really good.
I have been collecting a few parts. I traded a NP200 for a divorced Dodge NP205. Problem was 32 splined 1350? U joints and no drive flange. I had the e-brake from the NP200 turned on the inside to mount on to the NP205. Fits good. I ordered a drive flange and two 1310 yokes from Tom Woods a found a seal kit over on pirate so the NP205 should be ready to get back to Barrman. I also collected, maybe enough, exhaust pipe to run the exhaust on the truck. Turbo down pipe, over the rear axle exhaust pipe and muffler, and a couple straight sections of pipe. Also got an iinter cooler. I it is a banks. I think it is off of a Ford. 17.5" high, 32" between pipes, 35" outside of pipes, 2.5" thick, and 8" from front of cooler to end of pipe outlets. Also got three pieces of turbo pipe.
Other parts that were obtained, maybe for future project, are a SM465 tranny, married NP205, NP203, bell, fly wheel, and clutch. Anybody have a NP203 / 205 adapter?
Wend blosing causing internet issues.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/4490/dsc00300e.jpg
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/8421/dsc00301oqx.jpg
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/3121/dsc00302f.jpg
...for my 6bt swap.
But I have a few questions.
I didn't see how the motor was mounted to the frame, is that just a temp mock up?
I'm hoping to fab the dodge crossmember/motor mount to the M frame.
Also, I'd like to know more about power steering and brake set up?
A good picture of the mounts isn't possible until we pull the front clip off again. Basically, if the truck had the stock motor mount perches, we would have used them. They are almost in the correct spot. Put a set of Dodge rubber mounts on the engine and drop it down between the frame rails. You might be at the spot where a new slot is all you need to make them bolt right up. At the very most, a plate with a slot in it can be used.
:popcorn:
Me too
Me three.
:whistle::popcorn3:
Updates?
Not really, the law changed in Texas back in 2007. Juvenile offenders must be released before their 19th birthday instead of the 21st it used to be. Also, missdimeanor crimes no longer get them into the system. Only felony crimes.
That means about 1/3 less students in the system state wide than when I started working on the truck. Along with the fact that the ones we do get are normally more of the "crack head" variety compared to the stealing gum from the 7-11 variety. We went from around 400 here on my campus to I think 290 or so this morning. It normally takes me about 6 months to a year to get a student all trained up and working on vehicles. Doing fabrication work well, normally takes longer to teach. The last few months, once a student starts working on it, they get paroled or sent to a halfway house within weeks. I lost 9 real good workers so far this year. 3 more told me this morning they are going home within weeks.
State oversite has increased dramtically as well in the past few years. Used to be teaching students hands on was number 3 or 4 on my priority list each day. It might be around number 20 today. Actually, right now is a great example. I have my class of 8 students sitting reading the newspaper because the welding teacher is out so I have 5 of his students in here along with the auto body teacher had to go to a meeting with psycologist about the behavior and progress of some of his students. So, I have 5 more of his students in here. That is 18 students, I have 9 desk. These are all convicted criminals, some rival gang members, all not the best at anger or emotion control, so I am hesitant to get tools out when students I don't know are in my class. Basically, nothing is getting done. (Except the Zone.) Which really hurts because the last 3 students I have that can do the work aren't able to do so today.
Tomorrow is a special "open house" for any parents that can show up to see where their kids go to school. This is all part of the new state laws that figure the parents should be more involved with their criminal children. Even though most of them are here because of actions the parents did or did not do. Nothing will get done Friday.
I know I am making excuses, but it all comes down to this. Getting something done is no longer even thought of by the people that run this agency. Creating mounds of paper work on each student, insuring the students right to cuss me out and throw a fit is much more important to the newspapers. So, that is what we have to concentrate on.
All that being written, I finished up the 205 mounts at home the other day and just need to bring them back in. We have the 205 apart on a bench with a set of new gaskets and seals. All the parts are cleaned and ready to go back together. Once the 205 is mounted, we can start fabbing up the drive shafts. Then a few minor things like hanging the a/c under the dash, finishing out the radiator, condensor and intercooler mounts need to get done. Then, I will pull the cab off, take it home and paint it while the students add more beef to the motor mounts and start running brake lines. Once the cab is done and back on the frame, the front end will take a trip to my place, then the bed and then we get to see if everything we did will bolt back together again.
i had a 96 cummins dodge 2500. thing would just kinda crank slow. charged the batteries-same problem. tried a new starter-same problem. turns out one of the batteries was bad-wouldn't pass a load test but held a charge fine-huh?! anyway-it took 2 new batteries, and it fired right up. i seems the 6bt takes 2 good batteries to crank it fast enough to make it fire. afterwards, in conversation, i've had 2 other people confirm the same problem and solution.
PANTHER----
can't remember where i saw it posted, but somebody said the 89-93 dodge cummins truck crossmember is a perfect fit between the 715 frame rails for a 6bt swap. have not confirmed this so don't hold me to it-but worth checking out
You can find that over in the "camper special" thread. Yes it drops right in and I posted some pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by loosewrenchcowboy
My ford powerstroke wont start in the winter unless both batteries are good. diesels need power to crank. remember they are high compression engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by loosewrenchcowboy
OK lookie what I have. I need valve stems to mount the other 3. Sure wish I had a truck to put them on, HINT...HINT...........HINT
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/2065/dsc00120lr.jpg
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http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8282/dsc00119fs.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3593/dsc00118wd.jpg
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One big thing I have found with most every dual-battery diesel arrangement is that no matter how great the batteries are, the connection between the two of them and the cables to the starter are very important to keep both clean and in good condition. Otherwise, you really are only trying to start and charge only one battery.
What about the dual battery isolater kits?
An isolator is used when you want to charge two batteries from one alternator, but only drain one, in a situation such as a motorhome, RV, or other application where you may need 12 volts to power accessories, but still need a starting battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by defbob
Most 12 volt diesels pair up two 12 volt batteries in parallel for the extra amperage to light the glow plugs and crank over the high compression that diesels rely on to ignite diesel fuel.
Cool build!
Sent you a P.M. regarding your transfer cases.
Barrman, nice build. Sorry to hear about the judicial system dissarray... Did you perform the same front axle mount mod as Randy?
Also, can you take a pic from directly in front of the truck and directly in back of it, I would like to see the tack width..
No on the front axle mounts. These are CUCV axles that were modified to be spring over in a M715 by somebody else. The truck didn't drive good, so they were made to be spring under. That didn't drive very good, so the axles made their way to Sermis in a trade. I think a few other people had them in there as well. These axles had been welded on and ground on a good bit before I ever saw them.
We just put the bare frame with leaf springs on the axles, rolled it onto an alignment machine and kept twisting the front one until they met the specs for a 1984 K20. Then welded the mounts in at that angle.
Using some of the supplied mounts that came with the axles, we made a mount for them. We are about to the point that it needs to go back on the alignment machine for final fit before we take it all apart to paint. I will post up pictures and a report then. The camera has been living in the welding shop for the last few weeks, so I can't do any picturs now.
Alright, understood.... Looking forward to your continuing progress. Subscribed...
Any progress yet so I can start to drool a little?
its been a while since anybody posted on here. any progress on this project?
with regards to the coolant heater-try looking in the junkyard or scrap yards for a 1970's motorhome. i found several heaters (3)i pulled from a dodge executive model-its kinda like the "mojave" heater they sell at quadratech jeep and a few other sites. its a setup for the cj-5's and older jeeps. basically, its a heater core in a steel box with a blower motor on it. it mounts in the cab, and is about 12x12x12 inches square, mounts on a flat surface with 4 bolts, and uses 2 wires for the blower and 2 hoses. easy fit. some of them have a cable actuated door to run a defroster with a 2 inch tube outlet built in. you just need to add a cable or vaccumm heater coolant selector valve under the hood to stop the flow of hot coolant into the heater. hummers and 70's and older trucks had em. saw a hummer unit on ebay today for $20
No, no progress on the truck. We basically had no school the entire month of August. Then, after telling us no to air conditioning our classes. We got a yes because some bucket of money still had some left at the end of the fiscal year. I now have eight 6 ton a/c systems in my class because there was money to buy them. But not money to install them. I have too many blind spots in my room now to let the students work.
Hopefully soon.
Wow Tim, sounds like prison, oh wait, never mind. :)
Tim, when building a rig, is there an engineering rule of thumb for things like this? Just curious as to the castor since I have an 85 K-30 with cronic death wobble issues. I put some 2.5 degree shims in to get it close to 6 degrees which is where I was told it should be. This helped but didn't eliminate the problem. How did you come up with 8 degrees? I have searched in vain for a good answer and the only thing that has worked is putting too much toe out on the truck. If 8 degrees will help, maybe 10 will fix it. How much is too much?Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman
I just looked up a 1984 K30. I am pretty sure it was 8 degrees castor. I had the alignment machine fired up and just rotated the axle until it was centered according to the specs for a K30.
i know the specs are 8* but you will find that kingpin d-60s work better in the 3-5ish range. this from trial and error. mine had about 10-11 at first and had horrid death wobble. it is right at 5.5-6 now. before the hydro assit it would hint a death wobble very very infrequently with out the stabilizer. less is more with these fronts.
and replace the kingpin bushings and springs if you are having DW issues that may help very much
I know im digging up an old thread but any updates on this build? Looking to do a similar project and this has provided alot of info just want to see some more
I want to see more too.
The NP205 t case mounts are really pretty now, the steering column is out and getting sanded, Sermis has the drag link end and an example of what the pitman arm should not look like and the students walking in about now will be trying to figure out what size the short shaft needs to be.
My assigned camera was actually for the entire vocational department. Another class has been using it and I will have to beg or steal it for any pictures. I did turn in a request for another. We will see.
Here's sumtin I found..
http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/198...alignment-kit/
E
I think your starting probem is a bad ground. Go buy new cables or straps and ground the engine to frame, engine to cab and cab to frame and I bet it will start right up. Went through same thing with my truck and now all I have is a single group 24 battery starting my truck
Any pictures with my pretty tires on the truck?