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Pull the caps as suggested above. If the bearings all look good. Go back to starter issues.
When you pulled the starter, was it hot? If yes, that is probably your problem. Did you have the support bracket on the starter? If no, that could be your grinding.
My 6.2 24 volt starter gave me 2 months of somewhat slow starts. I just got that truck and didn't know it was slow. Then I had 3 real slow starts. Then it wouldn't turn it over at all. I melted a battery terminal trying to jump it. The only way I could fire the engine was with it slaved to my running Whistler M35. Even then, it was super slow.
I rebuilt that starter and thought the engine was going to fly out from under the hood the first time I had a full speed start up. That was with a direct drive unit. The redux units are even faster. Your video sounds normal or a little slow to turn. You were using 2 good 700 CCA plus batteries, right?
No matter what you find with the rod bearing, pay close attention to your starter when you get it back together. What kind of oil psi did you have?
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I might add that with the 6.2, use some serious battery cables. Not the cheap auto parts store stuff, but some really good Belden "0" gauge cables, and make them yourself with heavy duty ends.
When I first began building Grantshires' truck, it had a 6.2L in it already. It had some puny little cables running from in the cab to the starter. It would turn over OK when cold, but as soon as it warmed up any, it wouldn't start. I relocated the batteries to the side of the bed, then ran two "0" gauge cables. It sounded like it had an air starter on it after that. I also did the same thing to my BB Chevy with a gear reduction starter, and on the hottest 100 degree day it spins over with no effort at all.
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I am using my home made 2/0 battery cables on a fully charged set of batteries. The starter is not getting hot at all. I have also got the inspection plate off and have verified the flex plate is not cracked or broken. The starter was bolted in with all three bolts. The two big ones and the one on the front of the block (or back of starter).
I have also removed the belt to be sure I didn't have an accessory binding up. All accessories turn freely. The only thing I haven't done yet is unbolt the torque converter to be sure the transmission isn't bound up. But when I spin the engine by hand with the oil pan off I can hear the rod bearing squeak.
I'm convinced it's the dry rod bearing causing my problem.
I'm almost disappointed enough to put the original transmission and case back in and use my 305 sbc I started with...
Does anyone who watched the small clip on youtube think the starter was turning the engine over too slow? The clip was made before the problem started.
I haven't got any gauges connected yet. I never made it that far..
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My edit time expired.
I want to make a correction.
I am using only one battery with 2/0 cables in that clip on youtube.
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http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1001/spun1.jpg
It is definitely a spun bearing. I haven't determined why yet. Could it be a plugged journal from the main?
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5650/spun2.jpg
Does anyone think they would try to salvage this engine?
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Now would be a perfect time to throw in the 6.5 crank :-)
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For sure bad news. As cheap as they are, just get another 6.2 and keep that one for parts. I found 3 in a junk yard a few weeks ago. $200 each if I pulled them. No idea on condition though.
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I think for now I am going to back up a little. I'm starting to get a little anxious to get this on the road.
I'm thinking I can put the 305 back in until I have enough money to rebuild a 6.2 properly.
Now I have to decide if I want to convert it back to the original transmission and case or finish putting the 700 and 208 in it with the 305.
Ultimately I want a diesel but am really thinking I can use the stock transmission either way and be fine with a top speed of 45ish when I do get the diesel rebuilt and back in.
I will also be on the road sooner if I go back to stock drive line because I don't need to finish engineering the shift linkage and make custom drive shafts and all the other details that need to be addressed.
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There are a ton of little things that will slow you down at the end of the project :-(
I know nothing about diesels, but couldn't you pull the crank out of the bottom and get it turned? Maybe pull the one rod to have it re-sized? Not the best option, I know, but it would get you on the road.
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I called a shop today that specializes in diesel engines. I was told I could remove the crank and have it polished if it wasn't too bad. They also said it could be ground if needed.
Before I put a new bearing in I want to figure out why the old bearing was dry. There must be a plugged journal somewhere. I need to find that for sure.
I just think if I'm going to do anything with it at this point I'd like to go through the whole thing so I know what I've got under the hood. It would be too disappointing to me to get it running again and have it leave me stranded after a couple hundred miles.
I guess I won't be driving in any parades this year...
