Thanks Joe. Agreed, any progress is good. Seeing some guys make massive progress is awesome, but, keeping the plates spinning and having time for my hobby is good too!
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Thanks Joe. Agreed, any progress is good. Seeing some guys make massive progress is awesome, but, keeping the plates spinning and having time for my hobby is good too!
Hydroboost mounted and plumbed. I may get some time tomorrow afternoon to bench bleed the MC, and run new lines
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0086.jpg
George,
Don't bother putting fluid in the system until you get all the lines run. It will just make a big mess.
Then "bench bleed" the master on the truck by putting those plastic plugs that come with the master back in. Then with fluid in the master, push real slow on the pedal all the way down and then let it up slowly. Bubbles will come up each time you do it until you actually get pressure. Then just stop, hook up the lines and you should be set. Except for the air in the new lines.
Besides trying to fill the new lines and let the air bubble up. I can't think of a clean way to get that air out.
Since you are using new lines and have a new master. It might be a good idea to put in BFS or silicone instead of DOT 3 that will rust everything out in a few years.
Thanks for the tips Tim. I am one piece of brake line short, so no fluid in it yet. Tell me more about the BFS or dot 5. I haven't really investigated too much.
DOT 3 and 4 are water absorbing fluids. So, moisture in the air will get into the brake system through the vented master cap. That moisture will rust the inside of the lines and cylinders over time.
True DOT 5, not DOT5.1, is water rejecting silicone based. The military calls their DOT 5 Brake Fluid Silicone.
According to a David Doyle written article in a 2003 MVM edition. The M715 was the actual test bed for the silicone or no silicone brake fluid question back when they were new. 4 truck, 2 with DOT3 and 2 with DOT5 were driven all over the place, Canal Zone, Alaska, snow, hot and dry for a year.
They cut all the brake parts from the trucks up to inspect them. The silicone trucks had brand new looking parts. The DOT3 trucks had rust and pits all over. The military soon after changed over to all silicone.
However, things are not all roses. The BFS will still get water in the system. It will just be in isolated pockets all by itself. BFS also doesn't like to sit for months without pressure being applied. Basically, a truck with BFS needs to have the pedal pushed a few times every week or two and every other year it should have a flush done or at the least. A quart or so of new fluid put in while old fluid is removed.
BFS is also more spongy that DOT 3. It will feel different. ABS cars and trucks in the US can't use silicone because the computers and pumps are set up for DOT 3/4. That means driving a newer car all week and getting into a BFS vehicle will make you think you have brake problems the first few times you push the pedal.
I put a brand new Corvette master on my M715 in 2004, Redid all the wheel cylinders then too. New DOT 3 in the system because BFS cost too much. By the summer of 2009, my cast iron master was a rusted mess and the rust had clogged up the piston seals. I had to put in another new one. I swapped over to BFS and the master is still shiny. I pressure bled about 1/2 pint out a year ago just to do a "mini" flush. Other than that, I haven't touched it.
My M35 gasser had all new everything including hoses and lines in 2008. I put in DOT 3. 4 rusted wheel cylinders and an air pack rebuild later. I have it all BFS and no more problems.
There are dealers online that will sell surplus BFS by the gallon. 2 gallons can be at your door for less than $100.
Good info Tim, thanks. I will definitely switch to 5
Thank for the info from means well.
I started making a fan shroud that will fit the new radiator and engine. I made a plywood mold, stretched an old T shirt over it and put the first layer of fiberglass on it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0115.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0116.jpg
Good idea!!! That's how I'm planning to build my hard top some day. its amazing how many things you can build with fiberglass. Good job dude, can't wait to see the finished product
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Looking good georg. By the way how was your deer seasion?
Thanks guys.
Gun deer season was good in that my son took a nice deer. This is his second, and the big smile is still priceless. I got down from my stand and helped him track it. It didnt go far.
I didnt shoot anything, but it wasnt from a lack of opportunity. With my son tagging one I dont mind being a little selective. I let quite a few pass, (some small) to prolong the season.
This last year was the busiest year at work, and the first year in over 10 that I haven't bow hunted. I never got the time to practice this year, and despite the flingarrows name, I wont hunt unprepared to make a good shot. It was a bummer sitting out bow season, but I did get the truck running.
Sounds like a great season to me. Iv not hunted the last 2 years only taking my daughter. Says a lot for a guy that would ask for a lay off in Oct and stay off tell broke or season went out. Same problem to busy at work not enough time to scout. She missed a doe( excited) but iv never been more proud when she watched a very nice 135+ buck walk wating on a good shot. Planing on doing some early bow this season. Freezer filling but mainly scouting for her. If she dose well maybe then I will hit it hard? ;)
Does the 6.2 need an electric fuel pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
There is a mount on the pass side of the block for a mechanical pump, but the setup I bought used an electric pump. I had it plumbed for the electric, so I just replaced it with the same type of pump
Not trying to hijack George here. However, I thought this 6.2 tidbit fit.
An electric lift pump is a great idea for a 6.2. The "proper" way to change a fuel filter on a mechanical lift pump 6.2 goes like this: "Change filter, open bleeder on filter housing, remove pink wire from IP, turn engine over until only fuel comes out the bleeder, (Don't turn engine for more than 20 seconds at a time or starter damage will occur), close bleeder, hook up pink wire, try starting engine, if it doesn't start, repeat until it does."
The electric lift pump means you open the bleeder, turn on the pump, close the bleeder, start the engine.
Once running, the electric pump really isn't needed anymore if the IP and fuel lines are in good shape. Reverting the 6.2 back to only 1 wire pulling from the battery to stay running.
Back to your cool build thread now George.
Tim, you always have good input. No fluff here, keep it coming
What radiator are you using for your 6.2? How is that shroud coming?
I used, I believe, a 28" speedway motors radiator. Shroud is about done, but I've had a few 70 hour weeks, not much time to play
YJ wipers in, I just need a switch. Still need another quart of resin to finish the fan shroud
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0133.jpg
Are you running the sm465 married to the NP205 behind a 6.2 diesel? If so what is your top speed in the truck? Did you re-gear the axles?
Yes I have the married combo. I haven't really had the truck out of town, I need an injection pump (this week or next). I have the stock axles and no tach, so I don't expect to get too much out of it now. I do have a set of Axles with 4:11 gears. That will probably be my winter project.
I went cruisin yesterday for Fathers Day - click on picture for a sneak peak.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...fatherdday.jpg
I got the new injection pump on, and drove it for the first time with the hydroboost brakes. What a HUGE difference on the brakes. The truck also starts way better with a good pump
I messed around this evening and got one side of the disc swap done on the 14 bolt. I'll probably do the other in the morning
Cool, at least your doing something :)
I havent touched mine in about three weeks. Been bz.
I am hoping to have my other font axle stripped, degreased and painted this weekend, the switch gears and start shooting my bow on weekends, getting ready for bow hunting season.
I am rethinking my solid mounted drivetrain. I have had cars with decent lift cams that didnt seam to shake/vibrate as bad as the 6.2 in my 715. I'm still just thinking about it, but am leaning towards re-doing it. The axle swap will come first, after hunting season.
Here is the 14bolt, ready to go in:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0178.jpg
Yeah you probably should put some rubber mounts in the drive train, it will help a lot with that. Just remember you have to rubber mount the trans, and tcase if its married.
Thanks, I'm all solid mount now, with a married 465/205. I am pretty proud of the TC mount, but I guess I'll have to redo itQuote:
Originally Posted by maskale
New Humvee seat belts, for one of my winter projects:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMAG0228.jpg
Sweet how much did that run you?
$32.00 shipped from here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/parts-s...98-humvee.html
NICE I might have to get a set after I fab up some seat mounts they aren't even bolted down :eek:
I took the truck out for the first long ride today. 40 miles round trip (at about 45 mph). It ran great, the only thing that is a concern, is that the hydraulic clutch is engaging too high, and I actually slipped the clutch in 4th under hard acceleration.
Do I need to shorten the pushrod, or am I missing something easy here?
I actually shimmed the initial fulcrum (early 70's chevy pickup fork and fulcrum) with a few washers when I originally installed it. It would not be hard taking them out, or even shortening the pushrod.
Any thoughts?
Has it always been at the top of the pedal?
How much free play do you have in the pedal? If you don't have enough free play you could be dragging your clutch disk wearing it prematurely?
Yes, always near the top. There is a small amount of free play on the pushrod going into the MC, but no free play on the rod from the cylinder to the fork.
I'm not at home yet to check mine but I'm pretty sure mine is the same way. I have free play in the MC rod but none in the slave. My engagement point is between half way down and the bottom of the pedal.
I didn't build any adjustment into my linkage setup. I made both rods from 3/8" round stock. I remember playing with the lower rod length a bit to get it where it felt right to me. I'm using a cast iron fork and cast iron bell housing from the late 50's or early 60's I believe. I still need to come up with an inspection plate.
http://imageshack.us/a/img163/1072/slavet.jpg
Maybe your lower rod is shimmed out too long? Have you tried removing a washer yet?
George,
Pull the cap off the reservoir and have somebody push the pedal and release. If you do not see fluid flowing back into the cup, the push rod is too long or the pedal is not coming back enough. There is a way to adjust the pedal a little bit by turning the stop.
That is for up top. If it is flowing fluid back, then the pressure is being released. That means the rod or linkage down low is the problem.
That help any?
Thanks jeeper and Tim. I will check and see if fluid is flowing back, and if it is, I'll take some of the shims out of the slave pushrod.
Fluid was flowing back (thanks for the tip Tim), so I was good on top. Even with the shim out, it was too long. I made the original out of a 6.2 pushrod. I made another, taking a little better than 3/4" out. Its good now. It engages just off of the floor and no drag going into gear
Glad you got it fixed. Now you can use all that 6.2 power. he he.
I shouldn't write that because people who don't know the joke will take it wrong.
Ha! I won't be smoking the tires or the clutch