wow those are pretty sweet ... :D
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wow those are pretty sweet ... :D
If you are still looking for the spindle nut socket I know quad4x4 has them.
RM
nope i got a whole set from the snap on dude for $80 bucks
so i started welding in my 2x6 1/4" steel box tube for the rockers today and heh i made a boo boo...... i had the door off so when i went to put it back on i guess the back of the cab moves a little and the door well kinda shuts right lol ......gggrrrrrrrrrr oh well i'll fix it :D
here are some pics
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/5171/rocker.jpg
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http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5702/rocker2.jpg
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not to pretty right now but after i grind the welds down and rhino line it should be nice... also found some bullet holes in the floor i think i might leave them heh
so here is the almost finished rockers... i use 1x2 1/4" to weld onto the 2x6 1/4" to make a little step also keeping the whole bottom flat and gaining like 3" of ground clearence
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/373/rocker1.jpg
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whoops here
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/5702/rocker2.jpg
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i had never thought about altering the body shape like that. that looks pretty neat
I guess I should have finished reading your thread and seen you put a stack. I would like to see some pics of how you ran it
i hav'nt run the exhaust yet still working on that.. i guess im gonna run a Y pipe somewhere but i might end up getting another stack...... a 3" body lift would make it easyier to run but im trying to avoid that cuz i like the way the truck sits now
so i was trying to put my stock fuel tank back in the truck and i have the straps but they are not long enough so im guessing im missing a part..... is there some kinda of bolt in bracket the straps hook to??? anyone...
you can see the attached brackets in this picture. the straps hook into these and then bolt to the bed
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...girard/213.jpg
You just wanted to show off that rockwell with the new brakes :p not fair! anyway, as spgirard30 said, there are brackets on the bolt side. Nothing special, they just have a horizontal slot, like the mounts on the bed in front, and the strap goes into that (same as front) and then the bolt goes through a hole in the top and into the mounts on the bed. It's a [ shape bracket, straight with 90 degree bends.
lol thanks for the pic
im gonna fab some up tonight... :p
so here is what i did if anyone else runs into this problem.... i flatten out the back side of the straps and weld on some L shaped angle..... drilled a hole on the one side and ran some all thread between the old mount and the new one .... worked pretty good
here are some pics
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8849/89009200.jpg
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http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8900/69236702.jpg
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Does this mean I get my gas can back? LM
lmao yeah you can have your gas can back :p
so after re sealing the tank running all new hose lines etc.... theres something inside the tank thats messed up....... guessing the pick up tube... i can only get the fuel filter i put in line to fill up a 1/4 of the way.......bblllaaahhhhhhhhh :( guess i'll be looking for some other fuel tank ...... schizer!!!!
sounds like the exact same problem that I have. Just had my tank done and replaced all the lines too. I can't figure it out, but I'm wondering if it is because the fuel is under vacuum all the way from the tank to pump... I have a filter right at the tank and one at the carb, neither will fill up. I suspected the pick-up in the tank was leaking so I hooked it up to a 5 gal can. The filter at the can filled up but the one at the carb never did, and will go close to empty if it idles for a while, but I can see the fuel coming in. Next step is to try a hose directly from the fuel pump into a can... I even tried filling them both then hooking the lines back up. They eventually fill with air somehow!
yep closer inspection the pick up tube has some holes in it .... i hooked a blow nossle to the hose and you can hear the air blow threw the holes.......bblllaahhh guess i will be looking for a new tank. don't really feel like welding a new tube in on an old tank
anyone use a good 30 gal+ tank in the back of the bed like a diesel truck has???
so i did the most uneasy feeling thing i've ever done yesterday..... i welded a new pick up tube on my gas tank..... i would'nt recommend doing this unless its a last ditch effort...... so how i did it
1. drain everything out the tank and then wash it out with soapy water
2. tape up the filler hole and fill the tank completly to the top
3.take a small torch and run it across the top of the tank to make sure there no fumes...*be careful* lol
4. after getting the old tube out start welding the new one in
i know this may sound silly but welding on a gas tank is really really dangerious!!!!!! and i would not recommend it unless you know what your doing
so... let us know when you get a chance to try it out and if the filter stays full... Hopefully that will fix the problem! I'm thinking of an engine swap and going with an electric pump, right near the tank so the majority of the fuel is under pressure instead of vacuum. Seems to me it would work better that way.
I've been thinking about this now that you mentioned you had the exact same problem as me. I ran some numbers (no grantees on accuracy!) and found that the vacuum in the line is probably around -1psi, due to gravity just from pumping it up from the tank to the pump inlet. A few sources online said that gas can boil/ evaporate as low as 100deg F at atmospheric pressure (14.73psi), depending on the mixture (winter mix can be up to 2x as volatile). So with it being at a much lower pressure in the line, I don't think it's impossible that vapor lock is happening at normal temps and there aren't any leaks. This is all assuming you are running a mechanical pump on the block.I think the vapor should go back to liquid on the carb side of the pump though when the pressure becomes positive again... Does anyone else have a clear filter at the carb that can comment on this? I'm just thinking out loud here.
I also came across this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lockQuote:
Vapor lock is a problem that mostly affects gasoline-fueled internal combustion engines.
It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to gas while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult. The fuel can vaporise due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readily.
Vapor lock was far more common in older gasoline fuel systems incorporating a low-pressure mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine, located in the engine compartment and feeding a carburetor. Such pumps were typically located higher than the fuel tank, were directly heated by the engine and fed fuel directly to the float bowl inside the carburetor. Fuel was drawn under negative pressure from the feed line, increasing the risk of a vapor lock developing between the tank and pump. A vapor lock being drawn into the fuel pump could disrupt the fuel pressure long enough for the float chamber in the carburetor to partially or completely drain, causing fuel starvation in the engine. Even temporary disruption of fuel supply into the float chamber is not ideal; most carburetors are designed to run at a fixed level of fuel in the float bowl and reducing the level will reduce the fuel to air mixture delivered to the engine.
Carburetor units may not effectively deal with fuel vapor being delivered to the float chamber. Most designs incorporate a pressure balance duct linking the top of the float bowl with either the intake to the carburetor or the outside air. Even if the pump can handle vapor locks effectively, fuel vapor entering the float bowl has to be vented. If this is done via the intake system, the mixture is, in-effect, enriched, creating a mixture control and pollution issue. If it is done by venting to the outside, the result is direct hydrocarbon pollution and an effective loss of fuel efficiency and possibly a fuel odor problem. For this reason, some fuel delivery systems allow fuel vapor to be returned to the fuel tank to be condensed back to the liquid phase, or using an active carbon filled cannister where fuel vapor is absorbed. This is usually implemented by removing fuel vapor from the fuel line near the engine rather than from the float bowl. Such a system may also divert excess fuel pressure from the pump back to the tank.
Most modern engines are equipped with fuel injection, and have an electric submersible fuel pump in the fuel tank. Moving the fuel pump to the interior of the tank helps prevent vapor lock, since the entire fuel delivery system is under positive pressure and the fuel pump runs cooler than if it is located in the engine compartment. This is the primary reason that vapor lock is rare in modern fuel systems. For the same reason, some carbureted engines are retrofitted with an electric fuel pump near the fuel tank.
A vapor lock is more likely to develop when the vehicle is in traffic because the under-hood temperature tends to rise. A vapor lock can also develop when the engine is stopped while hot and the vehicle is parked for a short period. The fuel in the line near the engine does not move and can thus heat up sufficiently to form a vapor lock. The problem is more likely in hot weather or high altitude in either case.
Gravity feed fuel systems are not immune to vapor lock. Much of the foregoing applies equally to a gravity feed system; if vapor forms in the fuel line, its lower density reduces the pressure developed by the weight of the fuel. This pressure is what normally moves fuel from the tank to the carburetor, so fuel supply will be disrupted until the vapor is removed, either by the remaining fuel pressure forcing it into the float bowl and out the vent or by allowing the vapor to cool and re-condense.
Vapor lock has been the cause of forced landings in aircraft. That is why aviation fuel is manufactured to far lower vapor pressure than automotive gasoline (petrol). In addition aircraft are far more susceptible because of their ability to change altitude and associated ambient pressure rapidly. Liquids boil at lower temperatures when in lower pressure environments.
Vapor lock is common in NASCAR, since the machines still utilize gasoline and carburetors. A car which runs out of fuel on the track often experiences difficulty restarting once it has been refueled in the pits. Crew members usually attempt to restart the car with the aid of ether and push starting. If a driver is aware he is running out of fuel on the track, to help avoid vapor lock, he may turn off the engine (before it stalls) and coast to the pit area for refueling. This allows for a small amount of fuel to remain in the tank and fuel lines to make refiring easier.
Vapor lock is less common in other forms of motorsports such as Formula One and IndyCar, due to the use of fuel injection and alternate fuels.
i should have the tank back in today i'll let ya know what happens... also im thinking an electric pump would be better as well
that was it.... runs just fine now..... i guess try replacing your pick up tube and see what happens
I think I'll try a new pick up tube and a small block 350 at the same time (with an electric pump), and see how it runs then!
here is what the mule is looking like these days.... used a trunk tano cover for a somewhat of a bikini top
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/739/mulej.jpg
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I don't know about that stack lol. it needs to be charcoal grill flat black or something lol. Looks mean, I think a roll bar would look cool. Looks awesome!
lol yeah im gonna paint it .... probly the whole truck in raptor liner and then camo over it to keep it from rusting
thinking of having a bake sale to raise money for the truck j/k lol :D
he yeah
im trying to sell a 89 cherokee for some more parts money now... i did get a new windshield installed today for $150 bucks... thought that was a pretty good deal :D
I told you the other day Das, earl's glass shop in orange cut a new piece of DOT glass and installed it for $75. That you can't beat!
yeah but mines tinted hehehehe lol
Yeah he sells tinted windshield glass too, for the same price! Doesn't matter now, the bugs will be out of your face from here on out
bblllaahh just about done all my welding ... now for grinding bblllaahhh lol :p