No pic of it, but if you just pop the hood, I think you will see what I mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by BBM715
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No pic of it, but if you just pop the hood, I think you will see what I mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by BBM715
Both Tom and Barry's solutions were to allow more air to flow through the radiator and out of the engine compartment. When you fill the compartment with a big engine and all the accessories there isn't much room for air movement. Thus the vent provides an outlet for the heated air from the radiator.
Looking at an M715 cowl area from an airflow standpoint...the air in front of the flat windshield is going to move outward and upward in a wake well before it gets to the windshield...in the case of a sloped windshield different things happen but with the flat windshield, the air is moving out of the way well before it gets to the windshield...so there is high pressure, low speed, practcally stagnant air, at the cowl.
If you ever drive with snow on the hood and dont clean it all off before driving, you can see the aerodynamics in action...at the cowl, the stuff just sits there...no flow...not toward the engine, not away from it...just stagnation.
Remember why the rear window in the R model Mustangs didnt meet the roof line? To vent the low speed/high pressure air in the cabin and pickup a couple tenths in the quarter.
Essentially, the cowl area being vented via the hood in this application is a very good use of the available design.
The added flow in the cowl area from the vent will actually help aerodynamics by helping the approaching airstream coming over the hood to actually get pushed out of the way of the windshield sooner and therefore cause a little less flat plate drag...essentially it will slightly reduce, at speed, the frontal area.
I found this shot...you can just see the back opening of the cowl:
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/cowlhood.jpg
IIRC he didn't add anything to the hood, just cut back the original metal at an angle.
I like the look of that hood. i don't think I would do it to mine unless I had to. I want the outside to look as stock as possible. That being said, I will modify anything that is needed to clear essential components. but it will be a last resort kinda thing. Snakeater
I think another factor in the hood modifications on both barry's and tom's trucks was the addition of the 427 tall deck which needed a little more clearance up top.
Nah, B. did the same w/o altering the hood. Barry & Tom had theirs hot rodded a bit and rung the pizz out of them - that's why the extra cooling capacity was necessary.
I have been trying to locate a shifter for the allison at542 transmission. called 5 or 6 places and no one seems to have one. i know that they were used in isuzu, gmc,chevrolet and a few others. What is so special about this shifter? Everyone has the transmission, just no shifter for it. I was trying to find a stock one and modify it to use in my truck, but I may have to back up and punt. Wonder if it shares the same gate length as anything else? More importantly I wonder if anything else can be used in its place. I spoke with northwest fab about their cable shifters for the transfer case, and they are more than happy to make a shifter for me to use on the trasmission, but it won't have any detent or gates in it. That scares me a little in that if it was used there would be nothing to lock it into gear. Any bump or jar could knock it into another gear.......bad juju. The search continues snakeater
You can use any 4 speed shifter, you just have to make sure that you make a shifter tab on the transmission, that is the right length relative to the shifter you use. Might take some trial and error to narrow it down, but it should be dead simple.Quote:
Originally Posted by snakeater
The gate length is totally immaterial. it is the shifter tab that matters. How many aftermarket shifters do you know of, which have a different model, for different transmissions. None, as long as you are comparing 3 speeds to 3 speeds, etc.
so any OD shifter will work
Hurst, B&M and few others, sell a standard unit that fits about 10 different transmissions. One is for the 3 speed transmissions, the other for OD ones. The only difference in application is which brackets and lever you use from the bag of various ones they send you.
The Hurst in my 715 fits all TH350, 400, 475, etc, Chrysler 904, 727, etc, and Ford C4, C6, etc. I still have a drawer full of the bracketry I didn't use.
The only thing I can see that would be unneeded would be the park position in the newer shifters, but just don't use that part of the gate.
Barry did raise the enter a bit...wish I had a good side shot or front shot...it was up 2 inches or a little more at the rear...started the raise in mid hood.
Brian you won't need any vents if you do a body lift, there will be a couple of openings in your wheel wells that will do the job. Ask me how I know.
If you really want to cool that beast I've got a 32" wide AFCO that came out of one of Andy Mayes' cars. Of course that would imply some big time cutting and it doesn't have an AT cooler in it, but for the cost nothing I will donate it just to see this madness one step further.
There also happen to be 5 3116's on GL in Huntsville right now at the Redstone Arsenal.
This should be willing to bolt in and give you as much cooling as that size opening will give, also it has AT cooling capacity. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-609.htm
Let's hear about it, what's going on?
on hold right now. i will post when I have more
There is an outfit in Florida making cowl hoods, and they have one for FSJ applications. Always wanted one, but that would kill my driving without my windshield all summer deal.
As far as the radiator goes, I am dealing with Randy Pettey out of Michigan for a project that I am working on...He can make any radiator you want. His work in quality, and the prices can't be beat. 586-412-1298 is the phone number.
Great project plan. Can't wait to see some pics.