never mind. I found out they`re a 44 an 60. my bad
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never mind. I found out they`re a 44 an 60. my bad
randy
did you ever find out what the WMS to WMS was on a CUCV axle?
wheel mounting surface :)
best Ive found is 67-68 wms on cucv. but I`m still researching.Quote:
Originally Posted by hunting09999
I have been looking but unable to find some pictures of a front cucv axle moded to fit. Im just curious what others have done to extend the cast spring perch.
Any images would be a great help. Also does any one know the size of the bolt that goes into the spring perch casting?
Not CUCV axles, but dana 60. Give this a look. I'm not sure if it will help or not:Quote:
Originally Posted by Specalt
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...ghlight=cheese
Thank you very much, that is a huge help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
For any one that is interested, I just put a 2006 dodge ram 2500 rear axle in.
The dodge rear axle is direct bolt in. The leaf spring perches are however for a 3 inch leaf.
In addition the dodge axle is an AAM 11.5 with 3.73 (could also be 4.10) gears, disk breaks with parking break. A single break line to a spliter for both calipers. Wms to wms is 72 inches.
2003-2006 dodge uses the same axle.
I picked mine up a the junck yard for $250, I will have to do a gear swap, that is going to run any where from 300-500, so for thoes on a budget it is not a bad swap.
Is the bolt patten metric for the rims ?
No, 8x6.5". Ford Superduty is metric, 8x170mm.
if that axle fits then the Power Wagon axle might also. It however is a 10.5 with 4.56 gears and a electric locker. they are a little more expensive in the online junk yard search I did but might be worth it to somebody out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Specalt
Good to know, thanks man!
Brickfist
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronner
Ok so I got a complete donor cucv.
I'm not exactly clear on how to put these under the m715. The brake backing plates are right in the way of where the stock m715 springs are.
You said you switched to disk brakes and welded new perches is that leaving the stock m715 springs in there stock outboard location?
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It is fairly easy to mount a Chevy D60 front spring under.
On the 14 bolt, I would make sure the axle is wide enough to fit between the rear leaf springs.
Mikel
That's exactly the issue the 14 bolt rear with it in the stock outboard spring location the brake backing plates are right where the springs want to sit. Everyone keeps mentioning rear disc conversion bit what I cannot confirm is if that gains me the extra clearance I need to leave the 715 factory outboard springs
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Pull one drum and see where the rotor/caliper would mount. Some 1 ton axles have super wide drums.
By the way, didn't Lee Alessi mount a CUCV 14 bolt in his truck after converting to disks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel
Here's the response from offroad design on my issue with there kit
The backing plate is removed, then 3/4" of spacer goes on top of the
flange on the axle and then the actual bracket goes on top of that.
Honestly, if you can get the springs between the backing plates, discs
should fit.
As far as Lee using cucv axles I'm not sure what's his user name?
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Lee is long gone.
You'll just need to potentailly rotate the calipers below the springs... thats what I have to do with my 10.25 Sterling Rear axle
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/64025...rd-10-1-4-axle
Cool thanks for the pictures. So it looks like the leaf springs are innthe stock m715 outboard location? Is the sterling 10.25 the same width as the 14 bolt?Quote:
Originally Posted by venominjected
What did you do to clear the front rotors and calipers?
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I dont have any real good pictures, but I used a 14bolt from a 73 K20 pickup, clocking the brackets:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showpost....&postcount=135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
So you used a 14 bolt with the disc brake conversion kit from offroad design and rotated the bracket down to clear the m715 leaf springs which are in the stock outboard of the frame position? What did you do about the front gm dana 60?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by res0wc18
Read through your build thread nice work. Youre using a dana 44 front still I believe but if the model you have is very similar to a gm dana 60 question is still open...does a cucv k30 srw gm dana 60 need working over to put in the front of the m715 with the leaf springs in the stock location? Or just move the spring perches?
I think you pretty much cleared up them questions about the 14 bolt. Disc conversion rotate the bracket down to put them below the stock outboard m715 leaf springs, weld the spring perches in the new location and youre good to go? I believe?
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Correct on all! I'm not sure on the 60 front. That will be a year or so down the road for meQuote:
Originally Posted by res0wc18
Awesome. I forgot to mention that all of this will be a spring over setup just like the chevy is from the factory but with a little less stiff springs ha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
So the rear 14 bolt is cleared up. Rear disc conversion, rotate calipers down and weld perches in new location.
So on to the front gm dana 60 srw from a cucv l, the unsolved issue.
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Its been discussed on here before... i think there was pictures somewhere earlier in the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by res0wc18
Google image search: "M715zone Dana 60 spring over"
Well I've looked over everything on the issue of mounting a gm srw dana 60 front. Since the springs are directly under the frame on the m715 in the front axle location not outboard i think it should work by moving and reeling the spring perches.
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I'm running a axle out of a one ton chevy express van. Direct bolt in, I have disk brakes on all corners, and the van axle has a government locker in it. I made a bracket under the cab to connect the original parking brake lever and rod to the rear cables. Parking brake works good and my truck will stop on a dime.
what year of van did you use for donor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot Paratrooper
the M715 front springs sit wider than the D60 front spring perches. about a spring width per side. im going to spring over a D60 and the spring will actually sit just outside the flat thats built into the D60 pumpkin for the spring perch. I like this because it will make the spring over not so much of a lift. the springs will sit lower closer to the axle centerline and i may take out a few of the stock m715 spring leafs and have them banded to the top of the spring pack. I want the spring over but not so much lift. some machining and welding will be required for this. moving the spring perch on the tube side of the axle and making a perch and shackle brackets. getting my DRW 14 bolt ready. its at the sand blaster right now. doing the back then the front. humvee H1 tires and rims. ARB air lockers and 4.88 gear sets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHood
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ For search purposes Ahood needs to clarify as a Ford kingpin (1977?-1997 F350 front Dana 60 axle is a bolt in swap.... so I'm assuming Ahood is dealing with Dodge or GM front Dana 60
Hmmm i wasnt aware of that. Yes mine is out of a GM.
So, I recently picked up an M725.
Engine and tranny already swapped by PO to Chevy 350 and 400 trans.
Axles still original, need something that will let me use readily available wheel lug patterns.
From what I have read, J20 axles (D44/D60) are too narrow for our vehicles?
Thanks.
Welcome to the zone.
My M725 also has a 350 V8 and SM465 but I opted to re-gear the original axles to 4.56. I tortured myself with the decision to do that because it was relatively expensive and I knew that I'd be stuck with the M725/715 lug pattern. I think I made the right choice for me.
If you go with the swap, I still see CUCV axles and whole CUCV trucks on craigs list from time to time here in the NW. Most are low mileage trucks.
Bryce
So, I've read thru this...all 12 pages and am still kinda up in air about everything to do with axle swapping my 715. Obviously a Dana 60 steering axle up front, what year/vehicle model's ones are the best to hunt down and then for the rear, what models of Chevy should the GM 14 bolt be pulled from? Or is it simply a measurement game and just hoping to find out? My goals with my 715 are to offroad it with some 38's or 40's, SOA in the front, and then pull a spring or two from each pack for better flex offroad. I'll go back thru the thread again but at this point, I'm praying to find an almost, step by step, if you will.
Hello!
We are new here, and I just wanted to thank everyone for all the info I've been reading.
We (wife and I) are blogger/vloggers and just purchased a M-715. It's in decent shape, but needs some love. We are still not sure what our plans are for it, but it's nice to know there are axle options. (Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like most of the Super Duty Ford axles are the easiest swap.)
If we end up doing more of a restoration we will keep the factory axles, or at least try to. I'm not overly excited about the closed knuckle and drums....
If we turn in into more of a trail toy, axles, and just about all the drive-line will be swapped.
...anyway, just wanted to say thanks and got long winded.
Look for venominjecteds build thread as he is doing the Ford swap, but then you have to swap Tcase as well....With decent fabrication skills, none of them are sure hard...
The best bet is a 1987?-1996 F350 axles....with 87-1994 (kingpin) being most desireable.
1998+ 'super duty' axles can be an issue as the front pumpkin offset is too far and hits our wide leaf spring pack on the driver side.
I thought a lot of those early Ford axles were actually D50s... Am I wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by venominjected
...Oh Good call on the T-Case @ray steadward. If we go this direction that will change too. I will likely do a 3 speed Atlas.