I know it was discussed on the site some years back and at least a few members knew the reason offhand...I dont remember.
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I know it was discussed on the site some years back and at least a few members knew the reason offhand...I dont remember.
come on, I towed the 725 with an F150. LOL! It towed fine but I had to go 50 mph all the way there and most of the way back, story to that. it would whip back and forth with 38.5 boggers on back and ndt's on front and one bad lower kingpin on the right side. I made it almost all the way home without problems by backing off the brakes so far that there wasnt anyway of the brakes overheating like they tryed to do, locking up on the way there. at 4 am and about 60 miles from home the tire blew out (sounding like a bomb going off) and turned the 725 toward the ditch and turned us toward the on coming traffic, almost in a V. I got it stopped and off the road to change the tire back to the boggers. I got out and looked to find a tire with no tread left on it and a big hole in the center of the tread. I changed the tires out and took off on my way again and was able to hit 70 mph with no whipping at all so now I think Im going to change the front axle out with one of my other ones. Ive had a shimmy from day one and never could find it but suspect it is from the loose kingpin.:oops::lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
I had a blow out on my GMC while towing my truck back from the Texas FE. I was going 65 at the time. The M715 helped to slow my GMC down.
One thing I have to ask, Jon, when you towed your truck did you have the windshield up? I know Dave had no choice to have it up since he was towing a M725.
Looks like it has to do with reverse energy where it takes a huge amount of in-put from the sector to turn the worm gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
Found this info about towing. It is from a CJ page.
"The interesting thing is that for an auto which some suggest should never be flat towed it is probably (one of) the most flat towed vehicles ever made. Moses Ludel, in The Jeep Owner's Bible, states that "A common cause of steering parts damage is from towing your Jeep. The Ross cam and lever type gear cannot tolerate this reverse flow of energy, where the road causes the cam to turn the worm shaft." He then speaks of the later Saginaw system as a better system which eliminated much of the awkwardness found in the Ross cam and lever system. People on various forums have suggested the front wheel dolly system where the front wheels are lifted on a dolly so the dolly takes the stress of turning, not the Jeep."
http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/Towing.html
Gunny, the windshield was up, roof was off, troop seats were on, door frames were on, large windows in door were open, fixed windows were installed...
I always fold my windshield down when I tow. I didn't do it one time towing across the bay for a car show and I could tell the difference in a big way. There was ALOT more resistence with the windshield up. With the windshield down and all the top parts/windows off it tows just like a trailer.
The biggest thing for me is still trying to figure out why the brakes would lock up if the truck is being towed. Why doesn't this happen while just driving a long distance?
That is something Barrman and I were talking about too...we didnt come up with an answer on that.
Worm gears are the reason, they don't like reverse input. A manual box is going to have a sharper angle on the gears to give the driver a greater mechanical advatage. With reverse input that is going to add up to more resistance and stress.
People get away with it, but it's hard to say the concerns are unfounded.
When I flat towed the above jeep back from TN, I disconnected the steering just to be safe. On my current truck I leave it connected because I know have power steering and power brakes.
Jon, you disconnected the steering right? Also did you have any brake upgrades? I am really trying to figure this out.
I wasn't aware of the difference in the Saginaw vs the Ross gear lever steering box thing. That explains the steering box issue.
The brakes almost had to be another issue.
If there was an adjustment issue (too tight) that certainly was a problem.
Perhaps the return spring for the pedal was weak or missing. That could apply a slight amount of pressure against the master cylinder from the weight of the pedal resting against it. This probably would have affected more than one wheel if there was a stock single-circuit master cylinder.
If a wheel cylinder was sticking even a little bit, it could have caused one shoe to stay applied enough to create a heat/fire issue.
A brake hose collapsed internally may have not allowed all the fluid to return and kept a wheel cylinder applied partially. The farther the truck was towed, the more heat would have built up, and the more the brakes would have tightened as the fluid boiled and expanded. This would be the most plausible explanation I can see, as it would affect only one wheel.
The master cylinder return post may have been blocked and not allowed the fluid to return and release the brake. Again though it wuld have affected more than one wheel.