6.2 nerds wanted

check out the dieselpage.com for 6.2 tips and info

i ended up buying a diesel repair manual for the 6.2 today, and it has everything, and a wiring diagram for the glow plugs.....so if you guys need some help let me know and ill try and scan the pages

When you buy new glow plugs get the 60G glow plugs, they are self regulating. The old styles burn themselves out if the glow plug regulator is not working properly. I hooked my glowplugs (60Gs) directly through a continous duty (Ford starter) solenoid and have a push button in the cab to control the solenoid. This has worked well for me for over a year. I use a chevy camero electric fuel pump mounted on the frame rail back by the fuel tank switch valve. This is great when you change filters because all you have to do is turn on the key to fill the filters. I have a friend that has a transmission shop and get the used transmission oil and mix it with kero or diesel fuel (which ever is cheaper) about 60% trans fluid 40% diesel in the summertime and more diesel in the winter and save a bunch on fuel. I will be installing injevtion line heaters and a dual fuel system so I can run straight trans fluid fuel once the engine is warmed up. Foodstamp if you want some more details email me and I will send you my phone# and we can talk.

wow, thats crazy. im having a hard enough time trying to just get it to start ha, so idont know if im going to go that rout. thanks for the glow plug tip.

Pink wire goes to the injector pump. It needs to stay on the entire time you are starting or running the engine. It's purpose is to open the fuel valve inside the injector pump to allow fuel to flow. It is also the only way to stop the engine once you get it running. Turn this on before you try anything else and leave it on while you are trying successive start attempts.

It will not start if there is too much air in the injector lines. Prime every line you can get to. If you have access to an electric fuel pump, you can use it to supply fuel pressue to the injector pump if you are having trouble getting the mechanical pump to do it's job, although remember it's primary job is a lift pump and is only used to lift fuel up to the injector pump where most of the work will be done. Then one at a time, loosen a connection where the injector lines connect to each injector and crank over the motor while allowing the air and eventually fuel to squirt out the fitting. Retighten each fitting and then repeat this air purge for each injector. This activiaty will take a lot of battery, you may want to remove the glowplugs to relieve compression while cranking it over to prime it.

To bypass the glow plug controller, just use the solenoid it came with or use your own starter solenoid as a relay and connect all the glow plug wires through it. Activate the glowplugs for about 7 seconds before turning over the engine, then relase the glow plug switch and crank it over. If it doesn't start, wait a few seconds, and then turn on the glowplugs again for 7 seconds and try again. Your old origianl glowplugs may actually burn hotter then the new self regulating kind, but beware as running them longer then 10 seconds or so at a time could burn them out.

When you finally get it primed and running, remember this experience, as you will have to repeat the entire process if you ever completely run your truck out of fuel again in the future.

Hope this helps.
Rollie

ya, thanks bud...im at the point now to where it is spitting out very little fuel out of the number 8 injecter line. once i get my other truck out of the shop ill finish up on installing the 6.2...this weekend i had made some mounts, and shes up in the truck on her own weight, fills it up nice...

ok, i think im going to try and get the glow plug controler to work right, now that i have a wiring diagram....yet is still dosent have the injecter pump wiring. mine has the pink wire and a green wire that branches out to some acuater on the throttle.

thanks alot guys

Hey this is teds son nick the 6.2 injection pump is not as scary as people may think. the engine should have a timing chain that drives the gear the attaches too the pump if i remember correctly you cant see it unless you remove the front cover. i work at a gm dealer i dont get the 6.2 much anymore but i deal with the 6.5s all the time and some even with a mechanical pump. these engines do not like starting fluid at all. If you get the engine spinning at the proper speed it should run off of wd40 it may take 2 cans at the same time but it should at least do something. like someone else said you have to make sure all the wires on the pump are hooked up. if the engine is smoking while you are cranking then you might wanna check the glow plug system. the easiest way to check them is the hook a test light up to the positive side of the battery and unhook all the wires from the glow plugs. then simply just touch each one. if the test light lights then it is a good glow plug if it doesnt then it is bad. If you have any more problems message my dad back and i will do my best to help.

there should also be a timing mark on top of the front cover where the pump and the cover meet. these are good engines and i dont see them go bad often unless they are not taken care of properly. like i said these engines are not as bad as people make them out to be you just have to understand how they work then they are a piece of cake to work on

thanks nick

so both pink and green wires need to be hooked up, i heard 2 things for the green, high speed something and what not...and something to do with the low idle...i dont really know what its for ha... my motor must be different becouse im not shure it has a timing chane, it looks like i have 3 gears, on is on the crank, then to the cam, and pump....nont positive, i havent pulled it all apart yet.

so is their a way to make shure my pump works, should i just keep trying to bleed it and hope it works, or is their some little trick??

I don't remember exactly, but it seems to me the green wire when energized will make it idle faster and possibly retard the timing a little. It usually ties into a separate temperature switch such that when it is cold as during an inital startup, it is energized. During this time, the engine will clatter more loudly and idle faster. After it warms up, it will turn off this circuit and run much quieter and idle slower.

I've seen some people connect a toggle switch to this same wire, to force the engine to idle faster when using it for electric winching or battery jumping to help keep the alternator turning up faster.

I kinda like that loud clattering sound while it's cold, because it lets people know it is really a diesel.

As for the timing gears you may have what appears to be a common aftermarket add on, but not a factory installed item.