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A little more info on the pinion angle.
When I welded the new spring perches on the top of the axle, I matched the angle of existing perch on the bottom of the axle to make them parallel. Use caution in changing this angle because it effects the steering characteristics of the axle.
When all was done, the U-joint was pointing directly at the T-case. However, the new U-joint angle at the transfer case was +/- 22 degrees which is pretty bad. This combination of the front U-joint flat and transfer case angled made the case for a double cardan CV drive shaft. Looks like this:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...t/degreecv.jpg
Here is a tech page:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html
hope it helps
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These knuckles can stand to be rotated a few degrees actually. But yes, it does change the handling. Makes it a little harder to steer, but it will keep it driving down the road straight a bit easier (if I remember correctly).
Having the C/V at the tcase is actually a pretty nice thing to have.
More maintenance and cost to buy it, but it will handle lifting it much better if you change anything from here out, and it will also handle a good amount of flex.
I cut my perches off and welded them back on top. So I lost the ability to keep it at stock angles. So I took this route.
Btw, if you have the tools, doing the rear shackle flip and the spring mount flip isn't too bad/hard. Sure beats running blocks!
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manul steer box, that pitaman arm didn't fit, is it power steering
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Yes, sorry I did'nt add the fact that it was for the power steering gearbox, the manual box has a bigger splined shaft.
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Resurrecting a really old thread...
Trying to figure out if the 1.5" taper is right for the STOCK tie rod ends. I ask because I am *not* doing a spring over (yet) but I changed out the steering box and the new pitman arm hole is too small for the stock end to fit in the stock configuration. Anyone know?
I suppose if I throw a caliper on there and take a few careful measurements I could probably figure it out but if someone has already done this start to finish I'd rather take their advice.
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all i know is the drop pitman arm thats suggested sucks...... it cut your turning radius back alot ...so much id rather run the stock one..... thinking about fabing my own unless someone knows of a beter pitman arm upgrade
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Yah, sorry about that dropped pitman arm sugg., I compiled that stuff and posted before install, I discovered the same thing once installed. It fits the box but isn't needed. Stock FSJ is best.
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Update on my end of things: as far as I could find the 1.5" per foot taper in a #2 size (also known as a #2 balljoint reamer) should work for both the stock tie rod ends as well as the upgraded ones suggested elsewhere on this site.
For me, though, since I'm not doing the springover and didn't need to ream out more than just the pitman arm, it was cheaper to get a whole new steering box out of a '70 wagoneer. The pitman arm on that already has the right size hole for the stock end, + it is plenty long so no negative impact on turning radius.
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Where did you buy the perches and u bolts from?
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