Looking good!
Printable View
Looking good!
Sound good!
Hey George do you have a heater in your truck?
I'm not really thinking I will drive it much in the winter but there are some pretty chilly fall days here and I may like taking a color tour in it. A defroster for the windshield is a must also. At least it was on my CJ.
It had a heater but I had to remove it to get the engine to fit in. I'd like to have a heater back in it. I am still looking into options. Anyone have any suggestions?
Original heater should fit. both trucks I have, still have original heaters one has SBC the other BBC . the BBC is a little tighter but still no problems.
I have a universal type box heater. It is about 10x10x10 square. I had to put a new motor and fan blade on. I haven't tried it out yet since I fired mine for the first time this spring
All my excitement has quickly ground to a halt.
I think I may have a spun main/rod bearing. My engine would start and idle for about a minute or less and start missing and stall out. I was thinking it was fuel delivery.
This morning I came out to try removing my non-vented gas cap thinking I was getting vapor lock in the fuel line. I fired the engine up and let it run. It sounded a little louder than normal but I figured that was just because it was a little cool here this morning. I let it idle until it died out. When I tried to restart it the motor turned over very
slowly.
I thought possibly my used starter was bad or maybe I had hydrolock. I removed all the glow plugs and cranked it over again. It still turned pretty slow but no fluid came out. Glow plugs were dry. Probably not an issue with heads or gaskets.
I then put in my other starter to see if it was the starter. When I cranked it over with the new starter it was definitely grinding. I'm guessing I got a bearing stacked in a rod.
I will be pulling the pan soon...Almost two gallons of brand new oil in there....
Find a clean 5 gallon bucket and save it for later or mix it in with your diesel.
Well I think my fears are confirmed.
Exhibit A:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9446/dry1a.jpg
So what do the experts think?
The top right yellow arrow is where I rubbed some shiny gray (read metal shavings) oil from the crank.
The other arrow is pointing at the rod cap that is bone dry. All the others were clean and oil covered.
Also for what it's worth, the oil pan has almost no sludge in it. It's actually pretty clean.
I'm wondering if I could use the crank and rod from my other 6.2 that has a scored cylinder?
That looks like a 350 with the 4-bolt main caps.
And with the rod cap, just pop off the cap and check the bearing surface. When you have the cap off, wipe it off and check it to see if it's blued or overheated.
If it's clean and looks to be normal wear, lube it, put it back on 'tang to tang' and torque it back down.
The little debris that was getting flung around wouldn't bother me that much.
I'd just pop the caps off and check all of them while your in there.
I've torn apart engines that ran fine to find all sorts of sludge and crap around the rockers, lifter valley and oil pan that you would think that it SHOULD'VE died within minuets!!
Did you do a oil pressure check before?
E
Crank and rods from a good block is an option. Mic both cranks to make sure neither has been turned, so you can get the right bearings