-
At the risk of being made fun of, that is a big puller ya got there...
I took the truck for a test drive this afternoon. It shifted through all the gears. I made it up to (I'm guessing) around 45 MPH and the engine was wound out. That's when I figured out the transfer case is in low range. I tried to take off in 5th gear once I knew I was in low range. I stalled the engine and could not restart it.
I walked home because it was only a short distance. I went back a bit later with my wife and some jumper cables. I tried to start it before I attached the cables because I thought maybe the engine cool off period would allow it to start and it did. I think the direct drive starter isn't going to work on my turbo 6.2. I will start looking for the wide mouth gear drive starter.
I adjusted the levers when I got home so the transfer case actually shifts from 2wd to 4wd and from hi to low properly now. I will take it for another drive after dinner to see how it goes now.
I still don't have the front drive shaft installed.
It is supposed to rain here tonight so my original plan to paint the truck this evening got postponed.
-
Glad to hear you got it sorted.
I have never rebuilt a nv4500, but several 4speeds. I do know some who have rebuilt the 4500 and made their own pullers. A little bit of ingenuity and anything can be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I've made some tools in the past but I think I can buy them for the rebuild. I'll just add that into the cost of the rebuild. It'll still be cheaper than paying someone else to do the work for me.
I think this transmission will probably need a full rebuild before summer is over based on my test drive after dinner. It make a lot of noise while I'm idling. I can't hear it over the engine while I'm driving so I don't know what kind of noise it makes while I'm in motion. It shifts fine though. Even 1st gear which looks like the syncro is worn out.
I'm not upset about needing to rebuild it but would have liked to get a used transmission that was ready to use instead of all the fiddling I've had to do to get this one usable.
I need to get an exhaust installed soon now.
One other problem I have now is I don't seem to have a place to hook up a speedometer.
It was also very warm here today and I still don't have a cooling fan installed. The gauge got up to 200 on my first test drive but after dinner it never went past about 180. Must be the difference in speed. I was able to do 55 easily this time. (I used an app on my phone to see my speed this time.)
-
I didn't plan to do anything on the truck today.
I went to move it this evening and it wouldn't start (again). What i realized was that even my glow plug relay wasn't "clicking" normally. It turned out that all my battery terminals were corroding. I cleaned them all inside and out with a battery brush and the truck started right up.
I didn't have a problem with battery terminal corrosion on my last truck but I didn't have dual batteries either. I'm not sure there's a correlation but don't know what else to think at the moment.
Anyone else reading this ever have problems with battery terminal corrosion in a short time span? These batteries have only been tied together since late January or early February. Does having two batteries in parallel in a truck increase the corrosion rate?
-
I have multi dual battery vehicles and have not had an increase in corrosion formation.
Were they new terminal ends or used ones you had sitting around?
-
My experience is the same. No problem with multiple batteries. Bad cables or loose/dirty terminal connections are the typical cause of corrosion problems.
And I always use the military battery terminals to get the most reliable connection and it I can remove the cable without removing the terminal from the battery post.
I also switched to using AGM batteries. They don't leak acid and destroy the battery box.
-
All the connections on the battery were new and clean when installed in January. I bought terminal posts for the batteries to make it easier to hook the batteries in parallel. I have a 2/0 cable between the positives but the negatives are individually grounder to the engine block with a number 2 wire each. I also have a number 2 from one negative terminal to the body. One other thing I think that's different from this truck to my last is I don't have the braided ground from the engine block to the frame. I should probably do that soon.
So what have others done about the lack of mechanical speedometer connection? I can use my phone for now but I'd like a long term solution to the speed and odometer. Not that it really matters but it would be nice to be able to calculate my miles per gallon.
-
Wait...I thought you were using the stock transfer case-can't you use the stock location in the transfer case?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Doh. For some reason I had it in my head the speedometer came out of the transmission.
http://blog.gieselman.com/image.axd?...sferCase05.jpg
According to this picture it is in the t-case.
Thanks. I guess I didn't look close enough at my case.
-
No probs. Yeah most 4x4 vehicles have the cable coming from the t-case because low range will affect speed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
