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The U-joints cap sizes are the only difference I know of between the NP200 and 205. $800 for a driveshaft sounds a bit steep. Even Rockwell sized stuff isn't that expensive if you have a driveline shop build it.Quote:
Originally Posted by black rock trucks
Yes. What I do is getting a junkyard shaft that is too long and have it shortened and balanced. MUCH cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
what do you mean? the yokes for a np205 are 32 spline fine and the yokes for a np200 are 10 spline course?Quote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
that driveshaft price is from high angle driveline, with a 45 degree cv on one end and a 1410 on the other. I got another price from Arizona driveshaft and they wanted $1200 to do a double cv shaft. these joints are 2tons too. That's the going price for hi angle stuff. With the np200 im looking at angles of 10*.
Why such steep angles? Quite a few members here have done Rockwells, and 40+ tires with no issues, and certainly less expense in the shafts than that.
NP205's come in a ton of different flavors....Quote:
Originally Posted by black rock trucks
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...case_NP205.htm
I have one out of an IH that already has 10 spline shafts/yokes in place sitting on a pallet in my garage waiting to be rebuilt/refurbished. If all goes well, I will require no further modification other than mounting brackets when all is said and done.
For you, unless your going to be jacking this thing up so tall that you need a step ladder to get in...you shouldn't need a high-angle driveline.
its a 94 short bed reg cab chevy truck with 13" of lift. Just cause of the short wheel base.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaWilkins
oh never knew np205's had that spline count thanks for the info.
Well yes i am lol thats why i need either a np200 or high angle shaft. . .
Is their a rebuilt manuel online anywhere for the np200's? cause like i said before mine didn't have any shims in the center gear cluster and i find that kinda weird. . . thanks kyle
In the -34 manual it tells how to rebuild one...you can download it from the Online Maintenance Manuals link at the top of the page.
thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by brute4c
hey guys i have all timken part numbers for the bearings and races for the np200, if anyone wants them i can post them up. Only thing i need is the shims. . where do you get them at? i can't seem to find them anywhere??
An update on the cooling system, i have a pump and guage. i drilled the case for the temp sensor and im goign to get the fittings for the pump .
thanks kyle
We are always looking for part numbers!
4- Timken 2793
4- timken 2720
2-timken 3780
2- timken 3720
2 timken 307L
70-needle roolers C196oQ
30- needle rollers BCA-QBR-23549
Shim packs are the same for the np200, 205 and 203 NPG-15128
Chicklin or TxRider (or others).... Have you tried the 50wt yet?
Nope, I ended up selling my M715 and getting an M37. Sorry, I didn't have a chance to check it out.
Reviving this old thread, as I saw this on SS. I had never heard this reasonong for the NP200 heat:
Some more experience (research) over the last couple of years, I thought worth sharing. One of the major differences, between the NP200 and the NP201, is the primary cause for highway failure of the NP200, where the NP201 lasts. In 4wd both transfer cases turn a main drive shaft and an idler shaft. Two gear shafts turning generates MUCH higher temps than a single straight through gear shaft generates.
On the highway in 2wd the NP201 runs only one shaft, so highway speeds creates much lower operating temps than is generated if the idler shaft is turning. The NP200 runs the idler shaft whether in 4 or 2 wheel drive. That heat thins the gear lube frying the bearings and galling the gear contact surfaces.
So even running high ratio differentials, the NP201 easily survives that high speed operation...and 70mph with an NP200 may kill it in just a few miles.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...fer-case/page3
Not sure if it works this way or not...
If one gets the adapter for the driveshaft to work on the drivers side output, where the drum brake is, thus allowing the shaft to hook up with the brake on the same output and make the 200 into a through drive case, the heat problem is still there. This doesnt make any noticeable difference to heat buildup though it does completely eliminate the whine these tcases have stock...my understanding is that one is stopping the noise of the idler shaft running when doing the conversion.
So why doesnt that stop the heat because now it seems that it is running the same setup as the np201?
because the shaft is still turning, even though there is not a load on it. it may take longer for the transfer case to get hot, but eventually it will
the 201(I believe) completely disengages that shaft, VS the 200 in which it will always turn no matter what.
also the np 200 is straight cut gears not helical as in newer t-cases. why did you drill a hole for sender ? why didn't you just use the drain plug hole ? lastly try cornhead grease. it will help a little.
Thanks guys. I dont have a 200 anylonger, I just thought that was interesting
No they are not. NP200 gears have the same pitch and angle as NP205 gears. People have been building composite transfer cases using both for many years.Quote:
Originally Posted by md1970
please explain composit t-cases
Some people have built them to add a rear output to a NP205.
By composite he means that they can mix gears and other pieces from the 200 and the 205 and make 1 tcase out of them.