Got a pic?
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Got a pic?
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All
The source I had for a OEM defrost nozzle has backed out of sending me one so I can reverse engineer them.... :(
Unless one of you can supply me one I will not be able to go forward with this project
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See if you can get dimensions and pictures. We're basically talking about a vacuum nozzle. I really think a working part would be as popular as an indistinguishable NOS repop. At least to those of us who resorted to Home Depot!
The bolt spacing, slot width, and the angle to miss the glove box are all you really need.
I have the last pair purchased from VPW and they are not installed. I would be willing to send them off to be copied from as long as I was guaranteed them returned. I wouldn't mind an extra set of the 3D printed versions myself.
The pair I have isn't exactly a matching set, but when I found them picking through VPW's place I figured beggars can't be choosers. They are a little rough and not exactly the same, but between the 2 we should be able to get a working copy.
These are from the day I picked them. I do also have the hard to find rubber door seals, but as usual only 1 side. I grabbed extras hoping someday I could find someone who could mirror it for the other side, or I thought maybe I could rig it up somehow.
If someone has a way to do this also I would gladly send one their way free of cost.
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...pskgsbinzb.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmiu5mnlk.jpg
Awesome! PM sent
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How about using this company? https://www.metrommp.com/pages/Manufacturing.html
That does look like a possibility for the hard to find door seals, but I am sending one with the heater ducts to res to see if he can do anything with them.
After our phone call today I think he is going to turn out some really nice repop heater ducts for everyone! I will have them shipped off this weekend so hopefully we will be seeing some progress in the near future.
Sweet! Looking forwrd to it guys, thanks!
In the pic, the two ducts appear to be passenger side since the inlet wont miss the 3 lever switch. I will certainly purchase a drivers side if someone will produce them! Count me in!
All
I got in touch with a good donor and he sent me some to reproduce.
I am getting conflicting info. For the defrost ducts are they different from side to side?
(Insert pic of me looking confused here)
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TM 9-2320-244-34P (parts manual) lists two #11657881 nozzle for the cab heater
Dave
Great! %
That to me tells me they are the same side to side correct?
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Sorry for the incorrect info. I sourced mine from an old Grand Cherokee. I had to do some modification to the driver's side. It would not fit if the wiring harness wasn't already cut.
Bumping for an update from res0wc18.
Hello All.
Sorry I forgot to update this. Been a little sideways here as my father passed away.
So I got the donor parts from a fellow member.
I started measuring them up and sketching them in 3D catia.
I have printed off a few clips to see if the strength is going to be of concern.
But progress none the less.
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Res: Ive been lurking on this thread for a while now and happy to hear about the progress . . .and so sorry to hear about your loss.
Bryce
Thanks for your efforts and my condolences on your loss...
Very sorry to hear of your loss.
Like most here looking forward to seeing what you can come up with.
Sorry for your loss.
Bumping for an update from res0wc18. I know you're busy, just want to keep this thread alive.
Gentlemen. I have been our of country, but I have good news and bad news. I finished figuring the air ducts.
Bad news is that with the amount of material I'll need to 3D print them in a blend that will handle the continuous heat it will make these guys cost about $330 bucks a duct (insert shocked face here).
So because of this I am looking at doing some molds for low temp set epoxy.
What does everyone think the real demand is for these?
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Thanks for the effort so far, but as you suspect I'm out at $330 each.
Still interested in a set if you pursue the molded epoxy, and they are within reason.
Again, thanks for your efforts.
I am also interested in the lower priced version. Good luck and thanks!
Just a resurrection of this thread. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but eventually need to either get some made or get my original ducts back.
Absolutely. I have been messing with molding them unsuccessfully. I have a call to make this week to a friend that does blow molding to see what he would charge to set these up to make a run, as so far everyone's quotes have been outrageous and trying to get these under $200 is seemingly impossible, but I haven't given up yet.
I am also going to pursue making these in halves and using a process similar to the OEM way of joining the two halves with an chemical bond that "melts" the two halves together causing s perfect seam.
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measurements of stock duct? (I'd be hard pressed we cant find another OEM something to bolt right in...)
https://www.jegs.com/images/photos/9...633810-VUA.jpg
The problem is the offset of the inlet to clear the glove box on the right, and the light switch on the left.
If it wasn't for that, then something like you have pictured would work.
Or just use FSJ defroster ducts.
I ended up making a set from shopvac nozzles. I wish that I had taken pictures of the process.:confused:
1 1/2" hose by the way.
We used the defroster ducts out of the J-truck that donated my heater & hood. They fit okay, they do their job, but they are NOT compatible with the military headlight switch. No problem in my case, because we used an aftermarket headlight switch installed to the right of the column.
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Enroll in your local tech college in the class that does 3D printing. Learn how to 3D print your nozzles and you can make as few or many as you need.
This is the perfect 3D printing project.
KWAI- issue is not being able to print them we have lots of FOTUS machines that are used for some high quality work. The issue is the cost of them by the time they are finished because of three things. 1. Print time is over 34hrs 2. Amount of support material needed and post processing and 3. Amount of high quality material that will hold up to the heat and not crack/melt.
The method I am working on now wont be as pretty, but should work when processed and "bound" together.
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