I haven't checked to be sure but I think the other crossover has a different size bypass hose fitting? The water pump on the 98 has a 1" hose to the crossover.
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I haven't checked to be sure but I think the other crossover has a different size bypass hose fitting? The water pump on the 98 has a 1" hose to the crossover.
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Yet another setback. This one was my own fault for overlooking a small detail.
Before I tried to route the crossover for the turbo I thought I should button up a few loose ends from placing the engine in the truck. I thought it would be a good idea to have the inspection plate installed so before I did that I needed to bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. That's when I noticed the flex plate holes don't line up with the torque converter that came with the transmission. The flex plate on the 6.2 must be for a TH400 transmission
I'm sure I still have the flex plate that came from the 6.2/700R4 combo but I'm not sure where I stashed it. Regardless of where it is I will need to separate the engine and transmission.
Details details details...
Today I got the 700r4 flexplate swapped onto the engine and the transmission bolted back in place. It went better than expected.
Today I got a little more done. I got the torque converter bolted to the flex plate and the inspection cover bolted on. Then I started staring at the space where the drive shaft will go and tried to figure out if I can sneak the crossover pipe through that area without burning my transmission or getting crushed by the drive shaft when I hit a bump and the drive shaft comes up. There is not much room there.
I looked to see how Banks routed the crossover pipe.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/p.../P10100023.JPG
That looks complicated to reproduce. Also the right side manifold on the stock 6.5 exits to the rear so I'd need to make a 180 in a small space. Going to the front appears at first glance to be just as difficult as squeezing it around the drive shaft.
I'm wondering now if I could maybe use some rectangular tubing and transition that through the tight spots down by my front drive shaft? As long as the internal volume is the same the shape doesn't matter does it? What is the optimum size of the crossover? The stock 6.5 crossover is a little narrow at one spot...
The Banks cross over is 2" ID.
So I'm back ahead of the game today. I was pondering my front drive shaft and figured out the NP241 I had sitting there has the same size output shaft with the same spline count and is set up for a double cardan joint. I swapped it on to the NP208 and it seems to fit fine. I then measured the drive shaft length and went searching through my old jeep parts and came across a CJ7 front drive shaft the perfect fit.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psidlfpya0.jpg
The CJ7 drive shaft came from a 304 V8 jeep and is a much smaller diameter than what I was originally thinking of using. It leaves me with much more space to fit a crossover through.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9860uo5m.jpg
I'm hoping to pick up some exhaust pipe after work tomorrow and get it connected as a crossover.
Also my new pitman arm came from BJ's Off road. I got that installed on my power steering box and I have the ability to steer the truck again.
It's nice to make progress even if it is only a little at a time.
My NV4500 slave cylinder is right over that drive shaft. 1/2" clearance had it hitting off road and at speed with 500 pounds of people in the front going over dips.
I ground it off some and rarely had any contact with 3/4" clearance. When I did the 6.2 swap. I tilted the engine enough that the shifter is real close to the steering wheel in 1st. I haven't measured it but it is more than my thumb clearance. I also know it hasn't hit since.
I did also lower that side bump stop just in case.
Basically, stock springs and normal driving give yourself an inch or more and you will be ok.
Thanks Tim. I was thinking of lowering the bump stop if needed. My son would prefer I do a spring over lift and some bigger tires.
hes not wrongQuote:
Originally Posted by jeeper
I'm thinking maybe the next one will get lifted.
I did stop yesterday and pick up some parts after work but when my wife wanted to go out to eat. I decided that would be better than working on the truck.
I did get the new oil pan gasket installed when I got home. And when I eyeball the exhaust pieces it looks promising.
It's been raining all morning and this project is outside so I'm not getting much done on it yet today. I'm not sure if I'll melt or float away but the lightning keeps me indoors anyway.
I started looking at the fuel tank. It's in pretty poor shape. I filled it full of water and it was leaking in several spots. Looks like I will be needing a good one.
I decided since I'm likely going to replace the tank anyway I may as well see if I can stop the leaking and use it temporarily. I got out my wire wheel and cleaned off the flaky rust. I mixed up some bondoglass and gave it a good coating. I'll be checking it for leaks again after the bondoglass cures.
I got the crossover built today.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psbpth9t6p.jpg
It is tight but there looks to be enough room.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psgtcycbgr.jpg
Then I moved on to the turbo.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7jafbhxn.jpg
The oil tap location pointed out by Tim doesn't allow me to thread a fitting in. There is part of the casting in the way. I will need to install a nipple and an elbow I think.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psfrzzoszg.jpg
I tried fitting my grinder in the opening to cut some of the casting out of the way but wasn't successful.
I would try a small airpowered die grinder with a carbide burr bit! They move a ton of metal fast
Didn't get much done yesterday but today I got the turbo oil supply line ran.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1xim45rk.jpg
I swapped around the oil ports so the gauge comes from the port by the filter and the turbo is fed from the pressure port.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pscyi6hmlg.jpg
Next I'd like to figure out a waste gate.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psv9ilfp9k.jpg
I found a simple solution on the net. Does anyone see a problem doing it like this?
He is using a valve spring to set the tension on the gate.
That seems to be the best way to set up the wastegate. Lots of post on Diesel Page and Diesel Place of very similar spring units.
Do you have a Pyro and boost gauge you plan to install?
Running the DB2, you will have 2 different ways to control the boost. Both needing to be set. I would suggest basically locking the wastegate closed and seeing what kind of boost you get. More than around 10-12 psi or 1100° EGT and you will need to turn your pump down so at full throttle you won't get over those numbers. Obviously, if you don't get that high, turn the pump up some until you do.
Then, you can play with the spring nuts to give you the part throttle and off idle boost you want without the worry of blowing the heads off or melting any pistons.
I do plan to install a boost gauge but didn't plan on installing a pyro meter. I suppose I should do that though. I'm assuming that should actually be installed in the crossover?
Most Pyrometers are suggested to be put as close to the turbo as possible. The Banks manifold has the pyro right where the cross over comes into the manifold and just before the turbo. I don't know where on yours it would be best to put. In the manifold would be better than in the cross over though. There will always be that one cylinder running hot first and you want to know about it.
Pre-turbo and as close to the engine as possible. That will give you a more realistic idea of what temperatures the engine is seeing.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper
Exhaust gasses lose a lot of heat in the turbo.
Did a few minor things not related to the turbo lately because of life still happening and not having enough time to proceed.
I got the wiring harness swapped from the old cab to the new one. I also installed the windshield and soft top. I hung the doors with a couple bolts each so I could adjust them but they were almost perfect with very little fussing.
I think I am ready to prime the fuel system and try starting the engine very soon. I will probably not run it very long until I get the pyrometer and boost gauges installed.
I don't have the gauges yet so I've put the turbo on the back burner for the moment.
I ended up spending some time helping my son's friend put a used Ford 8.8 in his TJ today. I welded the brackets on for him a while ago but told him the axle needed to be under the Jeep before I would weld the track bar bracket on. Today was the day that happened. Then I had to teach him how to bend up some brake lines.
I also managed to get some time to fiddle with my truck as well. I ended up breaking an almost brand new fuel pump trying to remove the outlet pipe from it. Fortunately for me my son volunteered to make the trip to town for a parts run.
I got the engine started in the end though. The oil pressure was great but I did notice a little bit of blow by. I'm not going to worry about that just yet. I have quite a bit of work left to do before the engine is really ready to stay running.
Now I've moved on to trying to get the hydroboost mounted up. The unit in my last truck was slightly different. The rod was only about two inches too long I think. This unit from a square body blazer is about three and a half inches too long. I think I will space the unit from the firewall about an inch or so and just cut and weld the rod to shorten that. I will likely sleeve the rod with a small piece of tubing.
Anyone see a problem with shortening the rod instead of spacing the boost unit all the way?
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psxpeags8w.jpg
I cut the hydro boost push rod down so I didn't have to have the boost unit spaced so far out on the firewall.
The black tubing is what is left of a piece of the jack handle from the spare tire jack of a Ford Explorer that I scrapped out when I used its axle on my TJ. It also worked quite well to modify some soft doors from a CJ7 to fit on the same TJ.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfrjrbxj.jpg
Here the shaft was welded back together minus the two and three quarters inches I removed. The tubing is a little loose but actually worked quite well.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pspjtszxhr.jpg
Installed in the truck. You can kind of see the electrical 1/2" chase nipple I used temporarily to space the booster from the firewall. I intend to box in the bracket that is attached to the booster so I can remove those spacers later.
Then I moved on to swapping the master cylinder seeing as the one attached to the booster was from a Blazer that was disk/drum.http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9fs7pzus.jpg
On the left is the infamous Corvette master cylinder that others on here have used. On the right is the Blazer master that was on the booster. The manual cylinder on the left has a deep hole so the rod doesn't fall out. On the right the cylinder has mostly just a dimple. I decided to take it apart to see if I could swap that part into the manual master. It is pretty close but no cigar. The piston is only slightly larger on the Blazer master.
I figured I'd install a spacer into the deep hole so the rod from the booster would have something to push against. I didn't really get any pictures of that though because I forgot. But when I got everything together I only had about half of the pedal travel I expected. I compared the distance I could push the Blazer master to the distance I could push the Corvette master. The Corvette master only went about half the distance as the Blazer. I took the Corvette master back apart to try and determine why.
I didn't really find a reason but I cleaned it up really well and put it back together. When it was assembled I tested it again and I had full piston travel. ??? I can only guess what I did different.
Judging by the way the corvette master looks i.e. rust i bet the bore was a bit rusty also and the piston was getting stuck??? Or perhaps just got cocked to the side and jamed up. If either of these are thd case then it eill happen again, just remember that.
The outside of the master is indeed very rusty but the bore was clean. That cylinder was new only a few years ago. Probably 2012 or 2013 I think. You sure couldn't tell by looking at it though. It still had fluid in it and the fluid looked clear. The inside of the reservoir and bore looks like new still. If it happens again I will for sure be replacing it. I intend to test it quite a bit before I take it on the road.
I tried to spend the day working on things on the truck that didn't require me to run to town for parts.
I took lots of breaks and even took a nap today during the heat of the day.
I ran a new brake line from the master cylinder to the rear axle.
I swapped the throttle pedal assembly from the old cab. It was rusted stuck from sitting for so long. I took it apart and wire brushed all the rust off and sprayed some silicon grease on the bushings. It works as good as new now.
I mounted the front core support and loosely fitted the drivers fender in place.
I'm struggling with the hood though. I wanted to get the hood installed so I don't have to keep covering the engine every night with a tarp. I haven't run across this issue before and I'm not sure what happened but for some reason the hood seems too long. What I mean by that is with the hinges bolted to the cab and the hood bolted to the hinges the hood has about an inch gap at the cab and overhangs the core support by about the same amount too much. And this is with the hood slid all the was back in the adjustment slots of the hinges.
I'm using the original hinges from the other cab and a different hood. I measured the original hood and mounting holes and everything measures the same between them. Anyone ever see this or have any ideas what is going on?
Oh brother, im from Erie PA, up your way, and I know about rust.
Im still collecting parts for my M715 project, but i remember looking for a rust free jeep and really lucked out.
My truck went from the Montana fire department to a open field by a mountain. . It also has a HT, probably saved the cab.
My 72 GTO was a Florida parts car, again avoiding our lovely rust belt. I sware, anything thats lived in our neck of the woods looks like it was fished out of the cargo hold of the Titanic.
I will be posting videos of my project on YouTube, i would love to see yours on it as well.
Yup. The best bet is to avoid it but another option is to replace it with metal that isn't rusted. Some around these parts call rust "iron moss".Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMairGTO72
I notice in your signature you are/were a combat engineer? What branch and what unit? I was a combat engineer in the Marine Corps from 1984-1988.
It's almost too hot here to work on the truck today. The thermometer in my work truck said 95. And it feels like it's about 75% humidity.
I decided to sweat it out and get at least a little done this evening.
I started off fixing the blind nuts that fell out when I was removing the hood hinge. Here it is with no nuts.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pscwllcxai.jpg
So I drilled a hole and inserted the nuts back in. I held the nut in place using the hinge bolt while I (mostly blindly) tack welded the nuts back in place.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psvvltjtsg.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pslevdaqdt.jpg
Once I completed that I started on the hinges themselves.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pshc5nsdjd.jpg
Turns out they were suffering from rust too. The rust wasn't allowing them to go full travel up and down. I took the springs off and worked some oil into the pivot points until they moved freely.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4okdpuhi.jpg
My hood now opens and closes correctly and doesn't have an enormous gap at the cab.
It's a small world brother!
I was a Combat Engineer from 00' to 06', got hurt, got retired, 90%.
When I was at Fort Leonard Wood I helped train Engineers from all the branches, and at the time UN nations.
It's unfortunate that the USMC didn't spend the money on training Combat Engineers better, I expected the Navy and Air Force to not be up to speed, but not the USMC.
It really was the first time I understood the damage that Bill Clinton did to the services.
In any case, once you got them to cut down to around 3 F bombs in a sentence and got past them telling not only everyone but also each other how much better they were then everyone else, they learned rather well.
You would always know when Marines were running a platoon or squad exercise as they were arguing with each other lol.
My slight claim to fame was requesting splitting up the groups and adding our cadre to the mix. I made some great USMC friends out of that, all from PI oddy.
Thanks for serving brother, Combat Engineers are the most over used and under appreciated of Combat Troops.
I miss my yesterdays.
I love your project, you really got in deep with this, and even I can see light at the end of the tunnel. You made me think about my space for turbo routing. I really thought we had more room under the engine.
Im looking to do an LS 6.0 turbo swap. I plan on running 1 turbo on the passenger side, so i think going behind the engine on the driver and up under the flipped passenger exhaust manifold.
However im starting to think your son has the best idea and doing a flip kit.
Despite almost bleaching my eyes in these fourms, i still have no idea what front and rear axle to look for. I know a D60 / 14 bolt or D80 are my choice, and I know that they have to be wide, i just can't seem to nail down a year or years, on one post the guy says a 14 bolt from a van or box van with disks fit right in save for a shock.
Its not like i don't wanna fish around in junk yards, because I like that..i do.. I would rather know what I need. I don't want to move shackles or cut up an axle. ..
If you could help with any insight. . I would appreciate it brother, also what PS box and arm are you using? I know a guy on here is using, i think a TJ jeep steering box?
I know this is a big post, being retired tends to put you a little "off", then again us Combat Engineers have to be a little "off" to start with lol
I'm probably not much help on the axle swap. I haven't done it yet. I probably will be on the next one though. But I will probably use what I already have which is a semi floating 14 bolt rear and a dana 44 front. The rear came from a 1990's era light duty 3/4 ton and the front came from a square body light duty 3/4 ton. They are both currently on a Blazer frame. I am anticipating doing a bunch of cutting and welding to get them to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMairGTO72
There is a sticky in the Modified section about axles.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=13477
As for my power steering box I am not sure if I remember correctly but I think it came from a 90's era S10. It fit better than the last one I did which came from a 80's Wagoneer. The FSJ box was a little long and I had to modify the frame a bit to fit it in. This one fit like it was supposed to be there. I think it is also a fast ratio box. Something like 4 turns lock to lock I think. I will verify that later. The pitman arm came from BJ's Off Road.
As far as axles go, I found out that you can use a 1986-1996 F350 Dana 60 axle. You can't use the Super Duty axles. If you plan on going spring over it does bolt right in. It has the exact spring perch width, 36.5". I got a D60/Sterling 10.25 out of an F350. They are very beefy and were pretty cheap compared to other one tons. The Sterling will need the perches moved but the front looks like it won't need hardly any modifications except maybe shock mounts.
Wouldn't that axle put the axle carrier on the drivers side? Then you would need a drivers side drop transfer case?Quote:
Originally Posted by M715er
I didn't get much done to the truck since the last update. Just a few boring things that aren't even complete yet. I did decide how I am going to rig up my manual wastegate for the turbo.
I cut the stock vacuum wastegate and cut some threads into the rod.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pswbequnfh.jpg
I found some old dies that my dad had. I tried 1/4x20 but the rod was too small for that. My next smallest die said 3/16x24. It was a little too small so I had to grind the rod down a little to get that to work. I learned today when I went to get a 3/16x24 tap that it doesn't exist. But a 10x24 tap is correct...
Here is the stock vacuum gate bracket modified with the rod ready to have the spring attached.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psshmebppi.jpg
I don't have the rest done yet but I plan to thread a 3/8 rod onto the stock rod. I will drill and tap the new rod to thread onto the stock rod. That should give me ample adjustment capabilities.
I also spent some time fitting my new radiator into the truck. It didn't actually fit that good and I had to space it back from the core support and down because it was too tall otherwise. If the cross bars were still on the frame it wouldn't have fit.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pslo5aqft3.jpg
Another step forward. Now I need to find a valve spring.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4sikf3km.jpg
Still more progress today. I started something I wasn't looking forward to. I decided to remove the turbo and manifold to make it easier to install the exhaust gas temperature sensor. It will be only inches from the turbo.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfbtxxkt.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pslntrmyxs.jpg
I got the manifold bolted back on the engine but now I need to remove the crossover pipe to get the flange on the correct side of the transmission. It was getting dark so I will need to do that another day.
I got the crossover bolted down today. I then installed the EGT probe and routed the wires into the cab.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pseatf4xhh.jpg
I got the boost gauge adapter installed into the intake.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psdqjrnc8u.jpg
And I got the dash fitted with a couple new gauges.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psuensw9n2.jpg
I still need to connect all the wires and hose. I'm starting to think I may just make this truck straight 12 volt and replace the stock gauges with backlit gauges too.
Hey brother great progress, glad you didn't snap a bolt in the block.
What radiator did you get?
I bought one like this from Ebay.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/blgAAO...bJM/s-l500.jpg
Today I hooked up the throttle. Thanks George. You used a different cable than I used last time but I was able to make this one work. Here is the inside connection:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...pshks2v56v.jpg
And here I ended up making a different bracket in the engine compartment. I will still need to figure out how I will attach the throttle valve cable for the transmission.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psugqsrnjf.jpg
I got some hoses connected to the radiator:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psqggcjgv3.jpg
I got the intake sealed up and the boost tube connected to the gauge:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psmoissshn.jpg
And I got the power steering and hydro boost hoses connected:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psh2dacpk1.jpg
I am inching forward. I hope to get the transmission lines and oil cooler lines figured out soon.
I will need to revisit the brakes because I didn't have the front brake line installed tight enough in the master cylinder and all the fluid leaked out.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, I found a valve spring today.
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psiwnlcgvg.jpg
Lookin good Paul, nice progress
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
No pictures today. Just some boring stuff done. I got some loose end wiring done. I started cleaning up the glow plug wiring in the engine bay.
I installed the passenger side fender.
I got the turn signal lights mounted in the core support. I made up some H4 wire adapters so I can install some LED headlights.
I filled the power steering pump with fluid. It ended up leaking out all afternoon. I will be replacing that before I start driving it.
I have an idea what I will be doing for oil and transmission lines.
Thanks for the info on the radator, unfortunately no LS swap one :/
I often thought of doing a Detroit swap, but the engines were just so underpowered in the H1, and ..I think I had enough of that Diesel smell for a few life times.
Did you ever think about a BT4?
Great watching your project brother.
Thanks.
The 6.2 isn't a powerhouse that's for sure. But with 5.87 gears it gets the job done quite nicely in the M715 for my purposes. I did consider other engines before choosing the 6.2. I had a small block chevy gas engine in my last M715before I replaced that engine with a 6.2 diesel. The small block was a 305 and I felt it had plenty of power for my uses. It wasn't a powerhouse either but worked well for me. Here is a quick video on my son taking in the back yard shortly after I had it drivable.
I like the 6.2 because it is probably the cheapest option for a diesel and it is very simple to maintain. It basically needs glow plugs and an injection pump and one power wire to run. The I.P. is inexpensive to rebuild and new glow plugs are cheap and available almost everywhere. Here is my son demonstrating the 6.2.
I looked into Perkins, Cummins and Isuzu as options. All of which would also be easy to maintain but none of them were in my budget at the time. I could have afforded to go a different engine route this time but decided to stick with what I knew and was not unhappy with.