Use for M725 storage box!

Yeah, this really is pretty cool. Totally Jelly over here.

You really have done a good job.

The video is awesome.

I cant make any "critical" suggestions at this point, but I do have two that are minor.

I cant remember if You figured out the pulley size on the alternator, to get the proper RPM's.
from reading the spec sheet You show, the alternator really needs to be turning at 6ooo rpm's to put out the 108 amps.
Just doing that in my head, the lawnmower engine probably maxes out at 3000 rpm's full throttle.
So doubling the rpm's on the alternator, should just only require a pulley calculation and swap , I assume ?

And that is still running the engine at full throttle.
I bet once "that" figure is known, there could be be some "leeway" built in to allow the engine to run at say 3/4 throttle, while the alternator turns at 6000 rpm's.

Just thinking out loud...
A few charts and some math and a little research will work that out quickly.

The other suggestion I have is....
next time you find or scrounge or buy another alternator, if its a '70's model without an internal regulator...
It can be converted easily to put out AC voltage directly... anywhere from 65 to 100 volts AC. ( effectively bypassing the batteries and the inverter ( electronics ) allowing You to run directly off the alternator with power tools )
ALSO, a 70's model alternator will also allow you to WELD, with a set of jumper cables and some welding rod,1/16th and 1/8th in rod.

Just suggestions... just something to think about.
Totally awesome job.
Very impressive.

I "think" there are alternators out there from the 70's that will go as high as 200 amps, with external regulators.... something from an old caddy or lincoln or buick le saber.

just keep it in mind as you may run into one when you least expect to.

Yep... totally Jelly here...
Impressive effort and success !

Hey guys, thanks for the interest in this, it's a fun project with a bunch of variables.

I put on the new alt but it fell off the belt and I get tired of messing with it for today. I'd like to test it to see what kind of improvement it is over the other alt.

Here is my problem. The old alt was charging the batteries up the 11.9 volts but in time only 11.4. The inverter has a piercing sounding alarm that comes on at 11 volts! You can see the problem, without the briggs running, it has hardly any stand-alone power. It could also be the belt which I'm also replacing. The 105 amp alt was only $67 so I thought it would be worth a try.

The more you run the briggs in the higher rpms, the more load you want on them, an alt many not be enough to keep it from throwing a rod. Plus it's just too loud. I'll keep it at lower rpms, what they actually are, I'm not sure.

It's my hope this new alt charges up the batteries better.

Next up will be solar at which point many of these details simply won't matter.

Oh, I could take my old alt and make a welder of it. You do some stuff to the voltage regulator but I'd have to look into all the details.

it could be the rpms'
but the old alternator should have been putting out 13.5 to 14.7 volts...
Leaving Your battery bank at like 12.9 to like 13.2 when its switched off.

Something wasn't right... internal voltage regulator, or the slipping belt.

I want to go back and look at Your pictures, to see if there is a 3/4 inch or 1 inch threaded hole where the muffler goes.

If so, A threaded black iron pipe and a flexible exhaust hose and cheapo muffler may help>
just clearance issues really... it would have to be detachable for stowage.

good call on the load vs higher rpm's

very good call.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Panther

In the meantime, I put an oil separator for the york
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...2014.29.28.jpg

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Nice project!

You need to google "york oil fix" and do it. Isn't hard, and stops all the oil passing out thru your line.

Yeah, I've seen the york oil fix and have another york I might do that too but it does still pass oil, just less.

The new alt is in and is charging better than the old. It's "one wire" self-exciting so my switch is no longer necessary. No complaints.

So the plan is still to add solar but I wanted to share another idea I find intriguing, the Bedini radiant energy motor.

Blitz, I think you'll really like this one, theres all kinds of stuff if you search.
Here's a diy set up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttY7yLXZSpo

Just ran across this recently but the basics is that through a low amperage draw, you can produce a decent amount of power (10 amps in this case). As much as I like making stuff, this is a project I'd prefer to just buy the box. So here it is:

http://www.r-charge.net/10-Amp-12V-B...VAC_p_100.html

The problem I thought was that if I have to run my inverter to power the charger, it shuts off at 10 volts. So if it's off, there's nothing to power the charger. Then I posed the question to them, can it run on dc instead of ac, here's the response:

Quote:

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The great thing about this charger is that it does run off of DC not AC. We just changed it to run off of two power supplies so it is now UL and CE certified and the two allow you to have full or half the power.
The power supplies put out 24V 2.7A approximately depending on the size of the battery. They can put out more at times. So whatever you put in will be what you get out. The charger will run if the voltage and/or amps drop so long as the input volts are higher than the battery volts.
Same thing for the RC-2A12 charger.

Sincerely,
Renaissance Charge LLC

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For as much as I like the generator, it's LOUD! For as much as I like solar, it's subject to the weather. For as much as like this it doesn't produce a ton of power. I'm thinking all 3 would make a nice system.

Thoughts?

Oh, another conversion I'm thinking of doing is propane for the briggs. Ideally it would run both gas and propane.

Hey Panther,

dont let me discourage you.
Trial and error and experimentation ... are what make things happen.
Sometimes you gotta think outside the box and break the "rules"

I never heard of or saw the Bedini motor before, but if its that simple to build, I say go for it, and walk away for a week and see what happens.

I was looking up the GEET motors last night, and pretty much came to the same conclusion... ( build one one day, and try it myself )

They are projects that look fun, but ...
until I have one up and running, and I can test it myself...
I have to consider them novelties.


I think you are probably thinking correctly about propane.
It is a proven fuel source for generators, and has multiple uses.

I would just suggest, to not get into the trap of trying to get more out of a system than what is put in.
Most of it all looks good on paper and in theory, but thermodynamics is always hiding in there and friction losses will be the hidden demon.

I look at it like this...
really smart guys with lots and lots of money, help and free time have tried all of this stuff, and they either failed , died or disappeared :)

Gasoline, Diesel, Propane, Solar seems to be the way to go.

Diesel seems to be the best because you can make it yourself.

If you need to run in stealth mode, solar is really your only option.
And if you have to run in stealth mode, time is of really no consequence, or consideration.

cracking hydrogen from salt water, is interesting, but storing the hydrogen is not an easy thing, and one very small mistake and there goes the "lab".

its starting to come down to...
is this mobile?

Is it required to run silently?

Are you in a hurry?

I like the generator You built.
Yes its loud...
Its probably pretty efficient.

its like all off the grid technology...
you have to start with super efficient USE of power, and super efficient appliances such as ammonia fridges, really good insulation for heat, LED's for lighting, and living like "its a game" to use as little power as possible.

some things You just have to bite the bullet on.

If there is a fire here, and the power fails...
i have to fire up the generator to run a fire pump.

its loud as hell, but I keep the house.

I think it all just depends on how "quiet" you need to be.
And If you need to be that quiet... all hell has broken lose and even cooking smells will be a no no.

I think i would read as much as possible about the Bedini Motor, and see if anyone actually gets any juice out of it.... and I mean at least 1.5 volts... enough to charge a battery.

I dont think they are getting that... to be honest.

Gasoline
propane or diesel ( or Bio diesel )
Solar
wind
Then Methane
Then Hydrogen

If you want to experiment.

right now I would stay with gas, diesel and solar/wind/ thermovoltaic / solar thermal.

next stop... Propane and propane accessories.

it would be great to have a natural gas well in the backyard , to be honest.
everything could run off of that...

Next in line is solar but I might add this little charger later.

One thing I'm considering is provisions for longer trips. If im dependant on a lot of fuels, I'll need the space for the larger tanks.

Panther,
( Edit, looks like we posted at the same time ... lol !! Great Minds and all : )

I have been looking at the charger You want.

As a suggestion, You really have three options for another design/ mnfr that may fit your needs better... for about the same cost... but is probably more efficient.

You said you are running the inverter to charge the batteries..
lots of loss there... just on the conversion process.... ( at least 20 %, but probably more like 40 % loss )

1:
If Your inverter is kicking out at 10 volts...., You are Killing Your batteries.
its probably not adjustable, but I sure would not drop them lower than 10.8 volts, and the only for a few times.
the more advanced inverters kick out at 11.7, maybe 11.3 volts...
But 10.8 is hurting the batteries.... 10 volts is really hurting them.

2.
You have some options in chargers.
A. A direct connection to the alternator, to power the charger... and You can go up to 130 amps charge current OUT.
( the alternator directly powers the charger )

B: A 24 volt charger, ( 24 volts IN and 12 volts OUT )

C: A 12 volt charger, ( 12 volts IN and 12 volts Out )

By going with the design of one of the three charges listed above, You do not have to "tear into " a charger system, and bypass their AC power supplies ... to input 24 volts directly.

For about the same money....
You can get one designed to fit Your needs and configuration.
( I'm assuming Your truck is still 24 volts, but I also know you have the 12 volt alternator /generator home built system. )


Depending on how You want to install it, power it and what bank you want to charge...

I would at least look at this company:

http://promariner.com/products/marin...rging-systems/

You have several options, and I think you can find something that is designed to be powered directly from DC voltage ( 24 or 12 or direct alternator hookup )

Just a thought, as You were already up to 300 bucks, and then tearing into the design, to bypass the power supplies.

I saw a direct alternator hookup version, that puts out 130 amps of 12 volt for 380.00

130 amps is way way way overkill !!

40 amps, will serve You well for decades....
and I would keep that in mind while researching.

just wanted to forward this along.

I researched them about 60 %, and decided to send it on to You.

Shopping the price... once you get the model # , is like everything else...
catch them on sale ( and sales are on now , fwiw.)

i just think that going with a design, to be direct DC to DC, rather than "hard wiring" around a power supply... might be more efficient.

of course, the 12 volt to 12 volt will be cheaper than the 24 volt to 12 volt.

just something to look at.

The link above is for the MARINE versions ( wet locations )
you can probably save some $$$ going with the "dry mount" systems they offer.

Happy Researching !

That DC to DC charger is great. The other one would be dc to dc as well. My set up is all 12 volt.

This enters the possibility of electric heat, nice.