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The big block is back together!
Had the block hot dipped, magnafluxed and line honed. New cam bearings and freeze plugs as well. Shot a coat of GM Corporate Blue.
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Laid the crank with new bearings.
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Cleaned up and reused the pistons and connecting rods. New rings and rod bearings.
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Reused the cam and timing set.
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New oil pump (standard volume and pressure), tack welded the pickup tube.
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Cleaned up and reused the oil pan, damper and remote oil cooler adapter. New timing cover and seal.
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The heads that were on the motor when I got it were toast. I found a set of truck heads with a fresh rebuild on Craigslist for dirt cheap. I gave them a once over and bolted them down.
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I had the intake manifold media blasted and then shot a coat of high temp clear to seal up the porous aluminum. Cleaned up the carb and valve covers.
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real nice welding and fab work
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Yes, that really does look nice and bring back memories of rebuilding engines. I suppose the only engine that I will be rebuilding anytime in the future will be the engine in my Corvair.
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Did you have to do anything special to the front and rear drive shafts in order to mount to the married np205? What is the angle as compared to the original divorced np200?
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Thanks for the compliments, I've still got some things to learn about welding but I'm fairly pleased with the outcome.
Nice, the Corvair is on my long list of possible next projects.
The stock drive shafts will not work with the married 205 in my application. The rear is too short and the front is too long (not sure if the yoke sizes are the same either). I didn't measure the drive shaft angles with the NP200 in there but only have a few more things to do before the drive train is going back in the truck.
On to the updates…I cleaned up the transmission and transfer case. New seals and gaskets for the transfer case. I ground the RWD shift rail to allow for independent control and bolted on the ORD twin stick kit.
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Made some more progress.
I replaced the lower steering column bushing. Cleaned up and re-greased the upper bushing/bearing parts.
Mounted the stock e-brake handle to the SM465, there are two well placed threaded holes on the SM465, problem is the e-brake mounting bracket is hardened so I couldn’t drill through it. So I made a bracket that uses the factory hole locations.
A few more parts finding their home on the engine.
Installed the gas pedal and linkage (from Surplus City).
Mockup drive shaft, I think it’s just a bit too short. Angle is 19°. The CV clears the crossmember by .500”
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Clutch linkage any GM hydroboost are in.
I used the factory Jeep bell crank assembly, cut the short ears off and welded on some longer ones with a few extra holes for adjustability. Clean up one of the clevises from the NP200 shift linkage and use it for the clutch side push rod. I cut the factory Jeep clutch pedal push rod and welded a 7/16 bolt to the end and put a heim joint on that end.
The hydroboost mount is pretty self explanatory. So I’ll let the pictures do the talking.
Everything seems to clear the sheet metal with room to spare.
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Aww, you make it look so easy! Nice fabrication and nice welds, dude! Me so jealous... Keep it rolling.
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Thanks.
Radiator, e-fan and shroud are in. Summit Radiator P/N: 380328
I did the same thing many have already done, moved the passenger side radiator support over to line up with the second hole. I had to push the radiator assembly 2.5 inches forward of the original location to clear the water pump. I also had to drop it down quite a bit so the radiator cap would clear the hood.
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Nothing ground breaking here but I finished up the engine accessories. A rebuilt power steering pump from Borgeson along with the mounting brackets, 80 amp alternator with some modified mounting brackets and I bent up some upper radiator mount brackets. Shot some paint on the front end as well.
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gonna pull good with that bbc
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Spark plugs and wires
I picked up a M715 that appears to have been used as a forestry truck. Problem is they removed the stock spark plugs and wires and did a jerry rig set up with civilian plugs and wires. Is there anyone out that is converting their truck that might part with a set, that they'll not be needing any more?
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Whiterook,
This question is probably better suited for the Wanted Classifieds.
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I was just reading through my build thread to get some inspiration to keep pushing and realized that I never offered up the Solidworks files to those of you interested. I made these models in Solidworks 2013 so shoot me a PM with the file type you’re looking for (.sldprt, .step, .X_T, .igs, .stl, .sat). The file size for the Frame only is 1.5MB.
The obvious disclaimer:
All the measuring was done on this one M715 in particular and does not mean that the model will represent the truck you are working on. I spent more time measuring the features that I cared about and less time on the features in between. I never actually built any parts using the model dimensions only, so measure your own truck prior to making or having parts made.
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I fired up the Big Block without any major issues: a few leaks (water, fuel and oil), nothing that couldn't be tightened up. So far so good, still needs some timing and carb tuning.
I let the Kaiser stretch its legs a little. Looks like I’ll be able to run the rear shocks outboard of the frame rail. I’m using the stock fuel tank in the stock location with a little bit of surgery. The drive shaft crashes into the tank when the suspension articulates.
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I finished up the fuel tank mods and dropped in a new 0-90 ohm sending unit. It took a few passes with the welder to get it to seal, not very pretty but it doesn't leak. That was the most frustrating project to date. After that I hit it with the KBS Fuel Tank Sealer Kit for the belt and suspenders effect.
With the tank in place I realized that I would not be able to remove the fwd leaf spring bolt from that side without dropping the tank, so I drilled a hole through the outside of the frame to allow the bolt to feed from that side.
That area was starting to look like Swiss cheese…
I’m using a Jeep J20 Power steering box with a .750 – 30 spline input. I cut the rag joint end off the stock steering shaft and welded on a Borgeson U joint.
Painted the hood too.
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Not much tech here but I was double checking shock lengths and mounting positions, also measuring for brake lines.
Made some front shock hoops. I bought the bent tube (1.5”x .120 wall DOM) from Ruff Stuff, then cut to length and notched them. I built the mounts of out some 1.5” x .219 wall DOM left over from the tie rod/ drag link project. There are two slots in the frame rail right where the shock hoops needed to tie in, so I added some 3/16” bar to cover them up.
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Shock hoops look good. I have used a lot of Ruff Stuff's build parts. There quality is great and prices are very fair. The truck is looking good.
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Agreed on Ruff Stuffs quality and price, also doesn’t hurt that they’re only five minutes up the road from me.
The shock hoops are welded on. I should be able to run 14” stroke shocks on the front and rear, just need to decide if the Fox 2.0 IFPs are worth the extra $40 per shock over the Bilstein 5125s.
I'm not sure about the red calipers but I just couldn't find the motivation to paint them black before I put them on.
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The canvas top showed up a few days ago. It came from New Life Canvas; it’s the mil spec canvas with the oversized rollup back window. Fit and finish looks great. I had it set on the truck to air out and take shape. When I got home the next day I found it swarming with honey bees, I had to wait until the sun went down before they all flew off. So now it’s stinking up the garage.
The rear upper shock mounts are done and welded on.
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The rear lower shock mounts are done. I did one last check for shock body clearance at the frame when drooped and at the caliper when compressed.
The brakes are completely plumbed. I used a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve with pressure switch for the brake lights. I used 3/16” epoxy coated steel hardline for the long runs and -3 braided flex lines where needed.
The Fuel line is completely plumbed. I used 3/8” epoxy coated steel hardline for the long runs and -6 braided flex line where needed. I routed it out of the tank, over the arched crossmember and up the passenger side frame rail to the fuel pump.
The power steering is completely plumbed with the hydroboost in the loop. I used a power steering cooler from a modern Ford diesel (6.0 or 6.4 not really sure).
The engine oil cooler is installed and plumbed. I used a Ford E350 6.4 diesel transmission cooler.
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I sprayed some bedliner on the cab floor. This stuff went on really well, very simple to work with and is made in America.
I’ve been picking up the Autometer gauges along the way. I’m reusing the speedo. I’ve got the matching tach that I’m going to sink into the dash behind the steering wheel.
Optima 34/78 yellow top with the Ruffstuff battery box has a new home.
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Looking good. Good progress. Keep the pics coming.
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Thanks Behemoth.
I went with the Fox shocks. They are rebuildable and revalveable by the user, no need to send them in to be rebuilt or tuned. I also like to support American companies that still manufacture here in the US.
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I have to say this is yet another one of my favorite trucks on this forum. Cleanly executed and well balanced. Great work.
RM
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Why isnt there any arch in the springs ? in fact it seems there is negative arch, bowed up and not down. is there a reason for this i,am not seeing ? the rears have a little arch.
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Thanks Dude, much appreciated.
On the leaf springs; I wanted to keep the ride height low, I didn't want to run shims to set caster and I didn't want to move the spring perches on the axle. Springs with very little/no arch seemed to fall in line with all my wants. With that said, I pulled the front leaf springs from the front of an early 90s Dodge 3/4 ton. The 25- 30 year old springs may be a little tired.
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I pulled a bench seat from an 82 Ford pickup. I modified the fwd mounting foot a little to make the mounting bracket a little simpler. The mounting feet line up well with the flanged u channel under the cab so you can bolt through more than just the floor pan.
Cut in some tail lights as well.
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I found any fsj seat to me an exact bolt in with no mods at all. only yo have to remove the battery box mounting brackets or they will hit bottom of seat
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I’m finally done with the wiring; I used a Painless universal kit. I’ve still got a couple of gremlins to work out but it’s pretty minor (no right turn signal, fuel gauge reads opposite). I used a terminal block for the tail light connections in case I ever need to take off the tail gate, also makes the trailer plug easier to setup down the road.
New drive shafts front and rear.
New windshield.
About 5 gallons of 90 weight in all the appropriate places.
I hit the milestone of being able to pour gas in the filler and firing the engine from the cab.
Next up is to build the exhaust, finish up the engine timing, setup the manual choke, fill the power steering system, bleed the brakes…
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Stunning execution, organization, and thought went into this before and during this build.
Excellent!
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Looks great! Tons better than the "quick and dirty get it done now!" 350/700r4 swap I did.
I started to go with a universal harness kit but thought I'd save a couple of bucks and make the wife happy(er)... Rewired the whole thing myself, which kept it in the back yard an extra week, which ended up making her less happy...
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Looks great and I love seeing that manual transmission!
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Thanks for the compliments guys… I’m finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
Exhaust is done. I used the 2.5” tubing kit from Summit, the Summit X pipe and two 40 series Flowmasters.
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I've never been a fan of the exhaust u-bolt clamps, but I gave them another shot anyways... rather than fighting leaks and slathering silicone in the tube joint, I opted for two more sets of three bolt flanges and some nice graphite gaskets (Remflex Inc.).
It sounds great!!
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Well… after two years (almost to the day) since I bought it, I finally made the maiden voyage. Just a few laps around the block. I’ve got a couple of minor bugs to flush out but everything went pretty well. Working now to get a stated value insurance policy with State Farm and then I’ll start putting some miles down.
A picture of it flipped 180° in its home.
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