M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

Well I have the 305 sitting in the frame and connected to the stock transmission. I have all the drive shafts connected and was able to crank the truck back into my garage Monday night by cranking the starter over with the transmission in gear.

I also had a chance to look into why my 6.2 spun a bearing.

I think it may have been self induced by my own carelessness.

I had swapped all the accessories from my other diesel engine over to this one including the intake.

What I didn't do was re-install the bolt at the base of the vacuum pump on the back of the engine. It was in the way for the back bolts on the intake so I left it loose. I forgot to bolt it down when I was done. I believe this may have caused the oil pump to remain disconnected and inoperable? It was sitting up out of the hole when I pulled the engine on Saturday.

That would do it. Sorry to hear about the problem and glad you found the cause.

It seems all the details keep getting in the way of getting this truck ready to drive.

I am able to start the engine but am waiting to get gauges installed now before I tune it.

I found out the engine leaks oil quite a bit while it is running. The oil pan gasket was shot. I replaced the oil pan gasket tonight and fired it up to check for leaks.

The pan is now dry but I am still dripping oil?

After closer inspection I noticed it is coming from the top rear of the engine. It is very difficult to see exactly where it's coming from but I suspect I will be replacing the distributor gasket and tightening the oil pressure switch.

I should have gauges this weekend so I will be starting the 12 volt conversion with them.

I also need to get brakes connected again. I had them connected at one time but had to disconnect the lines when I installed the diesel that I ended up pulling back out.

stick with it man, I know what you mean about all the little details.


I am in the very beginning of my build, but I already know someday i will be where you are. Oh the headaches and the anticipation of the first drive.

Keep it up!

There is a hose on the back of the engine that has a tendency to spring a leak its a weak line and a common problem however I went to a semi truck repair shop and got a hydrolic line made for about $20 well worth the money since it's made so well and I shouldn't have to replace it again. Check that line and the fittings it could be your problem.

Well I spent an hour out in the garage tonight and installed a new gasket on the distributor. I started the engine and let it idle for a few. I started looking at the back of the engine and noticed it was leaking out of the intake manifold.

Bummer. Looks like I get to re-seal that now.

I picked up some boat gauges on Friday and installed them. They were really cheap. I paid $25 and got two tachometers, two oil gauges, two voltage gauges and two temperature gauges. They were originally on a Wellcraft with a big block Chevy engine. They fit perfectly and are backlit. Or at least they will be when I get the lights wired.

I'm not sure if I will install the tach yet. I don't really want to cut a hole in the dash for it. If I could find a two inch tach I would probably have that installed already.

I did see about 80 pounds of pressure on the oil gauge when I fired up the engine tonight. I'm guessing I may have the wrong sending unit for the gauge. 80 pounds seems a little high. I'll be looking at the twin of that gauge to see if there is any calibration on it.

Well sometimes I think it would be better to not report on my progress and let everyone think I'm an idiot, than to report what I did and remove all doubt.

I took off the intake manifold this afternoon to re-seal the intake manifold. What I found was a brand new gasket on both sides of the manifold.

What I didn't find was any gasket or sealer at the front or back of the manifold...

Doh...

Fortunately I only had water in the radiator so when I drained that I didn't lose any anti-freeze.

I'll see in a couple hours if I got it sealed up this time...

I still haven't figured out how to embed a youtube video to the forum.

Here is a link to a short clip of my truck driving around my yard. It is still a long way from complete but is getting closer.

nice,

for the first minute I was wondering if it was NASCAR, turning left. LOL

so you got the engine leak worked out?

Nice looking truck! (except for the chebby power lol ) But you really need a locker in the rear - really helps with the doughnuts!!! :-)

I'm glad to see that you finally got some drive time, great job

These are some old pics but I thought I'd post them up anyway. This is how I mounted my slave cylinder.http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1072/slavet.jpg

And this is how I mounted my master cylinder.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4991/mastersu.jpg

And finally I did this today. Pay no attention to the booger welding. I had a bad day with my welder. Every time I started to weld I'd weld through the column because I couldn't get the heat right. What can I say. I'm a rookie.

The switch is a standard 1979 CJ-7 brake switch. I cut a short piece of 1" angle iron and drilled a 1/2" hole through it. It has a lot of adjustment and it is solid as a rock.


http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8866/brakeswitch.jpg

Yesterday I replaced the front wheel cylinders with the Ford cylinders. Tonight I bled the brakes and took it for a spin around the yard.

We have been getting some much needed rain today and the grass was a little wet.

When I locked up the brakes the truck slid down my grassy hill like I was on ice.

My NDT tires have no traction on wet grass...

Good job on the brakes. Air them down to about 12 psi and they grip better.

Almost two years after getting the truck home it is finally licensed and insured.

I took my maiden voyage on the road this evening. I went to town to put some fuel in the tank.

It wasn't without a hiccup though.

I don't have a working fuel gauge. Yes I did run out of gas. I did have a full gas can in the bed though.

I don't have any exhaust yet either. I wanted to drive it up to the muffler shop. I started pricing up all the pieces I'd need to build my own exhaust and decided it would be better and not really cost much more if I had it done professionally. I'm planning on getting it in early next week.


I will likely be driving it next weekend to the Grand Rapids "28th Street Metro Cruise". It's an event where everybody is invited to drive their vehicle and show it off. Everything is welcome. There are many unique and cool vehicles that show up.

Looks like a good time!

Glad that you got to take a ride. I am sure it felt good. Somehow, that open exhaust sound may be missed when you get the full system on the vehicle ;).

Hey jeeper - we're planning to be at the Metro Cruise, too! Well, that is if wiring goes well this weekend...hope to see you there.

Hey Pink Lizzie. Good to hear. I'll likely be hanging out with my son, brother and nephew by an ice cream shop on 28th near Eastern Ave. I'll be in a Marine Corps green M715.

I hope to see you there.

Here is a quick clip of my loud ride to the gas station last night.

The camera makes it look lighter than it really was. It is hard to see in the clip but we were doing 45. I hit 55 easily on the way home. The tires shake over about 48 so I didn't go that fast too long.

It is a little shaky because my camera boy was having a hard time keeping it steady.

Sounded great and "Good on 'Ya Mate!"

Shaking is one of the reasons I have not done much driving of my truck yet. I am hoping that new tires, balanced will help as well as a NOS steering box and replaced universal coupling in the steering column.

Okay it's time for another update.

I got a couple quotes for a custom exhaust and decided I better just make do with a home made system. I'm planning on putting a diesel in this as soon as it is rebuilt anyway. I'll look at the custom exhaust at that time.

I spent most of the day running around on Saturday and gathered up a bunch of pre-bent pieces for the exhaust among other things. I brought them home and started assembling them into a workable exhaust.

I got the muffler installed by early afternoon today and need a few more parts to get it out the back where I want it to exit. I decided I would install a trailer hitch on it so I could bring my trailer to my dads with the truck this afternoon and drop it off. I figured I'd stop at Advanced Auto on my way home and get the few clamps and pieces I needed to complete the exhaust.

I was a mile or less from my dads house when the right rear tire came off and flew across the street and hit a tree. The back end hit the pavement at about 35 and the drum went skidding across the street too.

What a disaster. Fortunately no oncoming traffic so no collateral damage.

So I found three of the lug nuts and all the parts that came off. I had a high lift jack and started jacking the truck up to re-install the drum and wheel. Every time I'd get the truck off the ground the jack would start to shift. I'd quickly lower it and re-position it. I was on a hill but I was just at the bottom of it.

I finally convinced my son to sit in the truck with the brake depressed and I was able to jack the truck high enough to install the wheel. I got the wheel on and tried to install the lug nuts but found out I don't have a 1" socket or wrench in my truck.

I tried tightening them by hand but the threads on the studs were a little full of steel from the wheel.

I finally relented and called my dad for help. He came with a 1" box end wrench and I was able to tighten the three lug nuts I found.

I started the engine to limp to my dad's house and the engine was making a terrible clicking noise. I never heard that noise before. I shut it down and popped the hood. I disconnected the alternator field wire and had my son start the engine. That's when I realised the power steering pump bearing. I don't have power steering but I do have a serpentine belt set up so I left the pump on.

I guess I should have plumbed it in a loop and filled it with fluid.

I took the belt off and started it up. I drove it up the hill and shut the engine off to coast down the other side. I didn't want to run it too long with no water pump. I started it up when the light changed and gunned it up the next little hill and shut it off again. I coasted to my dads house from there.

Best I can figure I didn't tighten the lug nuts when I did the brakes on that wheel almost two years ago. I never drove it until this weekend and I've already put almost 50 miles on it. It started feeling like the truck was wandering just before the tire came off. I guess if I ever feel that again I'm stopping to check things out right away. I drove almost a mile feeling like the truck was wandering.

It seems odd to me that the bearing would go out on the power steering pump when the back tire falls off. Is it a coincidence or did the sudden jarring do in a failing bearing? That must have been the squeaking you could hear in the video my son took on Friday's Maiden voyage.

Thanks to George aka Flingarrows I now have some better rubber on my truck.

This is a shot of the buckshots next to the stock tires. (I believe the stock tires are the original based on the dates on the tires)http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8522/biggertires.jpg


Thanks again George.

I also have a video of my truck driving on them here.

Not sure why I can't seem to get Imageshack videos to work.

Here it is on on Youtube if anyone cares.

Tires really do make the vehicle.

I just got home about 45 minutes ago from my marathon trip. Tires look good on your truck Paul. It was good to meet you and Luke

My progress today.

Now I plan on pushing it into my garage and starting a power steering, power brakes and 6.2 diesel install.

I should be done by Friday. I just don't know which Friday yet.

http://i46.tinypic.com/4gehf.jpg

Anyone use a CJ GM conversion radiator in their 6.2 diesel truck? What did you do for a lower radiator hose?

I am making some progress getting the 6.2 diesel install finished. I have installed a power steering box. I have plumbed a hydroboost and power steering oil cooler.

I have the radiator back in and have installed a new upper hose.

I am trying to find a lower hose that is 2 1/4 inch ID at the pump and 1 1/2 inch at the radiator. I have a used hose that fits but would like to replace it with a new one.

My problem is I don't know where the hose I am using came from and I can't seem to locate the hose part number.

I went to NAPA and AutoZone today. I ended up buying two lower hoses in hopes one would fit. Neither one will.

I tried boiling one of the hoses to see if I could get it to slide over but the pump outlet is just too big. Getting an inch and a half hose to stretch over a two and a quarter barb is not working.


I lost the detent pin for my stock transmission also. I took the top cover of the transmission off. I cannot see the pin inside the transmission. I am a little concerned I will destroy the transmission if it is stuck inside it somewhere.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to flush the pin out if it is inside the tranny?

I think I could be ready to fire the 6.2 up by the end of the day tomorrow.

Summit racing has a good online selection of rad hoses. Hundreds, and include dimensions.

As for the detent pin, is it steel? Maybe a metal rod or coat hanger with a magnet attached, fished around the drain hole. Turn the output shaft a bit to dislodge it if its sitting on a gear?

I started my truck up today for the first time with the 6.2 installed.

I still have a lot of work to do to get it drive-able though.

I ended up cutting the firewall to get the engine in the truck so I need to do some patching of the firewall soon. I also need an exhaust because there is a lot of smoke coming in the cab through the firewall right now.

I am still missing the pin that holds the shift lever. I'm not planning on driving the truck until I am reasonably sure that pin isn't inside the transmission. Today I made a new pin out of a 1/4 bolt and installed the shift lever. I noticed third gear would not engage easily? I shifted the transmission into all the gears and third gear finally engaged. I will be pulling the top of the transmission again to have another look before I drive it.

My power steering worked but my brakes need to be bled. The brakes seem to work but I can't really tell how the hydroboost is working until I dare drive it. I did notice the steering got difficult when I pressed the brakes. Is that normal?

I don't have PS on mine yet Paul, but I wouldn't think the steering should change at all when you hit the brake. Was your pump from a HB equipped system?

I had to notch my firewall too. I welded it in, and then used body seam sealer on inside and out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/ClutchMC.jpg

Yes the pump was from a hydroboost system. I'm wondering if I plumbed the hydroboost correctly. I'm planning on taking a picture of it tomorrow.

George, how much clearance does the slave cylinder have by your exhaust?

I had to grind a little off the collector ring so it didn't touch my slave cylinder. It only has about an eighth of an inch now. I'm worried about boiling the clutch fluid or burning the seals in the slave cylinder.

If this is correct I did mine wrong.
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6307/steeringsys.gif

This is how I plumbed mine.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6571/10693430.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Flingarrows

I don't have PS on mine yet Paul, but I wouldn't think the steering should change at all when you hit the brake. Was your pump from a HB equipped system?

I had to notch my firewall too. I welded it in, and then used body seam sealer on inside and out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/ClutchMC.jpg

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I hope mine turns out as nice as that.

Here is another diagram that is easier to understand I think. This is how I have mine setup currently. Including the cooler.

Is this one correct?
The hoses I purchased fit in nicely as this is drawn. Although I didn't use those part numbers.

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8...tdiagram11.jpg

I have about an inch clearance. I'll check those drawings at half time.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps4611654f.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jeeper

This is how I plumbed mine.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6571/10693430.jpg

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Mine is similar to this Paul. I got it off of http://www.vancopbs.com/
On my PS pump reservoir, it has 2 or 3 return ports. Pretty much doing the same thing you are with the cooler coming out of the low pressure side of the pump
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oost_alone.jpg

I drove my truck around the back yard yesterday to bring it up to temperature. It was only 12 degrees outside. The truck was in my garage which had the wood stove on for a few hours before hand and the truck was probably about 45-50 degrees when I started it.

It smoked quite a lot at first. It was so bad I had to drive with the windows open because I could barely see where I was going (I have a hard top on it and still have the exhaust dumping into the cab through the holes I cut into the firewall).

It cleared up little by little as the engine temperature slowly climbed. It got up to about 200 degrees and stayed there. The oil pressure dropped from about 40-45 to about 20-25 and stayed there. It idled much better after it got up to temperature.

I could steer quite easily with the power steering. The power brakes still need to be bled but my truck still stops easier and faster than it used to without power. But when I hit the brakes and try to steer the steering definitely gets harder. Not manual steering hard but not without quite a bit more effort. I wasn't expecting that with this set up. I have read on several forums of people experiencing this in their modern stock Ford trucks. I'm still investigating what causes this and will report back if/when I know anything more.

Glad that you got to drive it. Post up what you find out about the steering