Here is the one I use. It works very good. I have done a bunch of tires with it. Hay it was free from a friend. Really needs a wooden handle.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1305/dsc01117ea1.jpg
Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2007-07-05
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Here is the one I use. It works very good. I have done a bunch of tires with it. Hay it was free from a friend. Really needs a wooden handle.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1305/dsc01117ea1.jpg
Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2007-07-05
Real secret isnt the tool---its finding the old timer who really knows how to use it. My uncle grew up working at a place where thats all they used--he can do 3 while I'm still screwing around on one. Watched him do it a thousand times on everything from passenger cars to semi tires and still cant get close to the speed. Puts a smile on his face watching me fart around and swear however..........
Joe, that was a tool purchased by Kwai that you were shown. He is also the one that did the actual purchase and delivery to my house of the wedge hammer I am writting about since he passes the store on the way to my house.
Al, your NAPA should carry the same basic tool. They will try and sell you the fiberglass handled version for about $20 more. From what I understand, everybody breaks the handles on these things. You can probably buy a spare wooden handle for less than the upgrade price.
You are right about the experience part. Kind of like the guys that used to hammer in railroad spikes. It takes a while to get good, but once you do, the job gets easier.
First time, I had the tire broke down, the experienced tire guy had it off the rim in less than 2 minutes. Took me 20 minutes to get the next one off using the same tools.
Break the backside first. Flip it over and then break the bead around the ring. A lock ring tool (steel bar with a special hook on the end) speeds up the removal of the lock ring. I got two bars (one short and one long) from Ken-tool.
Well I just took apart 5 split rims today with a long handled duck-billed sledge for split rims. 4 hours later, alot of soapy water and pb blaster and a forklift and I was able to get them apart.
Put it this way, if there is a next time, I will drop them off at a truck tire shop and pay them $40-$50 bucks to do them! My whole body aches from swinging that sledge/duckbill hammer and beating those beads down.
Practice really does help. I probably spent 30 minutes working my first lock ring off 4 years ago. This was after hours of breaking the beads trying to use regular tire equipment. Now, I look at the lock ring as the easy take a breather part of the operation. The more you do it, the faster and easier it will become.
One sugestion ,before you put them together get some tire lubricant,can't think of the name right now,it's at the kids house 100 miles away right now,and smear it on the bead. Get the kind that looks like grease,comes in a yellow plastic bucket.Any big truck tire shop will have it.Soap will work but it will rust the rim and that's what you dont want. When I had my semi trucks I used it on all my wheels. After several changing of the tires,they will come off the rim with one or two swats with the sledge . The duck bill sledge is the only way to go. After 20 to 25 tires you will almost think it's fun!!
The grease does make a difference when it comes time to break it down again.
Am I missing something on my M715? My lock rings don't have a slot in them to insert a lock ring tool, at least not visible from the front...... I've changed a few split rims before on heavy trucks, but this one looks different.
The slot is in the lip of the lock ring. You can't see the first slot until you break the bead loose and pry the ring away from the wheel. There are, I think, 3 slots around the ring.