How to pull a motor?

I have started taking the front clip off.
All the farking bolts on the fenders are rusted beyond reuse. I am thinking about getting an air hammer and a cold chisle and just cutting them. The one that I have been able to remove so far only got out and the bolt sheared. Either that or hitting them with my angle grinder.

Can coolant be recycled? I know my local auto zone will not take oil if it has coolant in it.

Zach

I can bring my coolant to work to be recycled. I believe it is the local oil recycler that picks it up. Maybe try a local recycling company in the Yellow Pages.

If in doubt I give the bolt head a good smack with a hammer--then try to turn in just a touch and then turn out. Usually hit them with PB blaster the night before too. Same with trim screws--always put the driver in the grooves--tap it--then same deal.

I don't know.
I am digging out the mud to find the nuts. they are corroded tot he point where you can't tell where the nut stops and the bolt starts. Its like one object.

I'll try it though. Why not?

Zach

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BBM715

While it is a LOT easier to take the whole front clip off, I never seem to have a helper when I need one. I pulled mine out straight up & over with a plain jane HF 2t with the boom all the way out.
BTW, pull the transmission at the same time - the t98/230 combo is supposed to be a pain to separate. - If you do this make sure you remember to remove the gear shift lever first because at 3:00am when that is the only thing between you and removal you will cut it off with a sawzall in 1 hand and steadying the motor with the other (don't ask :) )

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The other morning when I was pulling an all-nighter trying to get my diesel conversion done in time for an event I was working by myself at about 3am, fighting with the transfer case lever bracket and getting nowhere, I decided I needed a break from that so I tackled re-installing the nose by myself. I wish I had it on video or had taken some pictures. In any case I just used a rope tied to either side of the brush guard and then hooked to the engine hoist to lift. Got it all reinstalled nicely without damaging anything, a lot easier than even with two guys lifting it off manually.

(P.S. I didn't quite get it done on time. Darn. I did make a lot of progress though.)

Don't use an angle grinder on the bolts. Drill out the center of the head and it will pop right off. Then just push the bolt out. Not sheet metal damage that way.

Oh, good idea.
Any idea what kind of drill bits will work best on grade 8 bolts?

Zach

If you drill the heads of the bolts off, just don't do that on the ones behind the doors that hold the back of the fenders on to the cab. Those are captured nuts welded into the body, so unless the drill bit pushes them through, you'll then have to extract the remaining bolt left in there.

I was actually able to get the captured bolts off easy. seemed that there was no corrosion there.

I've not been able to move forward with this at all. My 2 weeks off work have been spent on grad school homework and painting my friends CUCV. If it was not for all this heat, it would be done by now and out of my work space. As it is, he is color sanding it outside while I am in taking a homework break. Break in the heat is supposed to happen Saturday, so we will put the last gallon of paint on it then, and I can refocus on pulling my jeep apart.

Zach

Well, I've been pulling and reinstalling engines (both conventional and VW types) for 50 years. I do not have a hoist (wish I did). I always used a chain fall or geared chain hoist fastened to the 8X8 beam in my barn whe I still lived in Illinois. Never had to pull a radiator support or bumper to do it. With a load leveler (I prefer to call it a "slant adjuster") a guy can do it by himself. Otherwise, it's pretty much a 2-person job with one hoisting and the other manipulating the engine position. You can do the same thing with a stout tree limb, if need be. That's how we came to be called "shade tree" mechanics. ;)