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Re: Towbar
Post by 40grit on May 17, 2006, 12:52pm
not you Jon, gimpy said extended it's rated for 17000#, but the standard hitch on the truck is still rated for 5k#...
I'm all for gross overkill, but you still have to realize where the weaklink is..
Re: Towbar
Post by socal715 on May 17, 2006, 12:57pm
yep, a 17000# chain and gonna do crap... if it's attached to a class 1 receiver on a honda civic:)
Re: Towbar
Post by robertcowan on May 17, 2006, 2:16pm
jon,
how did the van do pulling and stopping the m715 ?
bob
Re: Towbar
Post by brute4c on May 17, 2006, 2:41pm
Van did fine...until the trucks brakes locked...the trans temp gaauge ony hit 210 on acelerating to highway speed...once on the hiway, it dropped quickly to 160 or less and stayed there unless really big hills showed up. Of course the stopping distances increased some but not bad...took it easy and made sure everything was up to snuff before we left.
The truck did have lockout hubs on the front and the rear axles removed with plates installed in place of the rear axles to keep the fluid in...I put lillte square head plugs in the plates so I could remove them and squirt lubew in occasionally...heres a pic of those since I dont think I posted one before:
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/rearaxle_plates.jpg
Of course I did keep the top speed down to around 60...that moving around feeling from behind ya know...
Re: Towbar
Post by gimpyrobb on May 17, 2006, 3:24pm
So what did we decide on for minimal towing readyness? Pitman arm off and driveshafts removed?
Re: Towbar
Post by socal715 on May 17, 2006, 4:06pm
i doubt the steering would tie you down that bad....... and your truck shouldn't drag too bad with d-shafts still bolted up.. but i guess anything would help
Re: Towbar
Post by brute4c on May 17, 2006, 7:39pm
I did remove the steering...not because its drag but because it will ruin the steering box....according to several sources, e.g. Jeep Owners Bible by Moses Ludel, the type of steering box used stock in the M715, which was also used on civilian Jeep trucks, does not respond well to inputs from the tires back to the steering box...its wants all inputs to come from the steering wheel, not the other way around.
I disconnected the drag link at the passenger side steering arm and put a piece of chain around it and the frame, bolted together to assure it wouldnt come apart. Worked perfect...tires are still married by the tie rod so no lack of synchronization.
Re: Towbar
Post by gimpyrobb on May 17, 2006, 8:51pm
So do we think its easier to pull the axles or the drive shafts? I would have to make up the axle covers if I go that way.
Re: Towbar
Post by brute4c on May 18, 2006, 9:03am
If you pull the driveshaft, you are still spinning 5.87 ring and pinion at whatever speed you travel...if you pull the axles, this stops....just the bearings in the hubs spinning...different result than pulling the shafts...
I did forget to mention, our van has the 360 mpi (5.9l) engine...it has a much needed torque improvement over the 318 (5.2l) equipped vehicles that I HIGHLY recommend for anyone towing with either the Dodge trucks or vans...unless you have a Cummins or Hemi of course! For the older stuff, the 318 just doesnt cut it very well...the 360, especially with the MPI, does nice.
Re: Towbar
Post by binfordm715 on May 21, 2006, 11:53pm
Man... I'm just trying to picture the funk you'd be in if the towbar actually did let go for some reason, and the chains took over the tow duties. I could see the M715, now free to turn its own merry way, jerk its wheels left, pulling the azz end of the van over too. Wonder how many rolls the van would take before the chain wrapped up all the way!
Not trying to be grim here, but holy cow! I don't know squat about flat towing. Only rode with a guy once who flat-towed his CJ-5 behind a class C motorhome. Didn't use chains. I just don't see how those chains could do anything but wreak havoc! Maybe I'm just missing something....