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Brian,
Do not over tighten. The factory torque spec will do. Tom is right about the oil probably being too hot to work. How did you manage to keep driving with the truck that hot? Wasn't it pinging like mad? I am not accusing, just asking. I have a truck that will run 220-235 pulling a load in the summer. It never pings or breaks.
Tim,
Well.....Here's the deal- I had a mechanical temp gauge on it and when I was reassembling the motor the cable to the gauge twisted and gave me no reading. I kept thinking that the motor was just puking out water since I was overfilling the radator. I quickly figured out that it was getting too hot, but I didn't know how hot and just assumed it was 220 or so. I finally got the gauge replaced and it showed 250. The heads were cracked, and I had been running too much timing in it in an effort to make up for a vacuum advance problem that I had been battleing.
Basically- I learned alot from the first attempt to build a motor. The major lesson was that it's not good to take 2 crapped otu motors and mix and match parts and expect them to work forever. The motor may have pinged, but I never heard it.
In the last 2 months I got all the issues resolved- new exhaust pipes, new distributor, new heads, my oil filter boss bypass repaired. Now the motor is running at 11* and stays at 180* no matter what I tow or how hard I push it. I'd like to think that all is well. These bearings weren't knocking, and only a couple of them had copper showing. I just want to roll them now whilst I have it apart. I think it's a problem from previous problems and as such won't be an issue anymore........of course- if it stops giving me trouble then it won't be much of a hobby as I like working on it much more than using it.
I think I'll wait until saturday to do the bearings. It's 12* here and I hate to work on it on a school night.
Thanks all,
-B.
Brian,
Since you have it apart and have spent time and money replacing the other things, go ahead and pull the crank out and have a machine shop turn it. You are running an auto trans so you don't need to pull the trans out. Your arms will hate you, but it will eliminate any doubts or possibilities of future failures. Just my opinion.
I guess it should be mentioned that you really should get a bottoming tap and chase every bolt hole so that there is nothing in any hole to alter the torque...if all the bolts are new and all the holes are clean and all the threads on both the bolts and holes are good, the torque aplied will be accurate and consistent...do it once and take yor time, you wont be doing it again because of one of the little things you missed...a good acurate torque wrench too...and chamfer the oil holes on the crank...al basic stuff but lots of gus overlook these things and wonder later why it didnt hold up
brue4c
Note to masses: If one would decide to chamfer the oil holes in the crank DO NOT get carried away AND don't chamfer it evenly the entire way around the hole. Chamfer it just lightly on the leading edge and heavier on the trailing side of the oil hole. ?? Chamfer it so that the larger chamfer will be behind the rotation and the oil will pulled out not pushed back in to the chamfer and hole like it would be if the leading side was chamfered big. Make sense? If you're sitting in the drivers seat, the crank rotates toward the drivers side so you'd want to chamfer the passenger side of the oiling holes.
First- my holes are tear shaped...so I think they are chamberfered. It came like that as it is a Scat forged crank.
Second- I did that whole cleaning out the bolt holes when I had the motor apart. I chased each one with the tap and then cleaned all the bolts with my bench buffer. Despite all that it crapped out, thus dissproving your theory that if you do it right the first time then you won't have to do it again. I now vote to do it quick and just know you're gonna have a hobby that lasts and lasts and lasts.
I run a manual tranny (since autos are for girls) and hate to pull the crank out. It really looks and feels fine. I think I'll chance it.
-B.
At one point, did you have a M715 with an auto tranny? For some reason I thought I had read that you had a TH350.
It broke in half two 4th of July's ago. We changed a crank then without pulling the tranny out...took all night and was a pretty good time!
Thanks
You were having fun? I was thinking "This prick acts like my music ain't any good, but I didn't see him bringing down any CD's. And what's up with those pants? Doesn't he know the crotch is all blown out?".
Remember Jean Ellen going "Why is it funny that the transmission is broken in half? You two were up all night working on the motor?". Classic.
That was 2 weeks after you e-mailed me all "Naaaaa- you don't need a jackshaft! A single u-joint will work fine! Trust me, I'm MR. 4X4!!!!!"
____I just realized that this thread is spiraling out of control into a BS post. Sorry. Feel free to delete it. No need to move it as it has no value.
Sorry again,
-B.
Anyhow- Yup, Tim, for about 50 miles I had an auto. Then I had an auto in 2 easily carried parts. It was alright, but I really prefer a manual.