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I like powder coating in some applications but it is fickle. Here in the motorcycle world, some folks go nuts with it and it has to be done right.
For anything with threads, you cannot get it in the threads because you will then have to tap every hole afterward. Bolts just the same.
If you use it on any parts that have a close fit, like say a hole where a bushing resides, again you cannot allow the powdercoat to get in there because it changes the diameter of the hole.
If the powdercoater isn't attentive and misses a spot, you can't go back and touch it up. You have to redo it totally. Not fun.
Which leads to the next issue. If you have to remove powdercoating, there is almost nothing that will take it off easily. Aerosol gasket stripper or aircraft stripper will soften it, but still it requires lots of work to get it off before you can then sandblast. Sandblasting alone barely scratches the stuff.
If you chip powdercoating, as above you can't touch it up. It has to be redone. You can touch up with matching color paint, but you negate the purpose of powdercoating in the first place which is a seamless membrane against the elements.Also notice a snow plow or winch mount after a few years in service. They are generally powdercoated, and one the surface is broken and moisture gets beneath the surface, the rust will spread much further and not show up until it lfts and bubbles the powdercoat.
In restoration circles we hate it because it takes alot of the detail away from parts as well. Particularly with cast parts, stamped numbers, and the like. This is only an issue in correctness of a restorationa dn may not apply in everyday use.
Aall that said it does have its place for bracketry, undercar parts, and things that see severe duty because powdercoating is more resistant to scratching and chipping than paint.
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Great info. This is why it literally pays to be part of fourms like these. Getting the ability to pick the brains of pros really helps from trying to reinvent the wheel at times.
Zach
